[DML] Re: Crankshaft Pulley
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[DML] Re: Crankshaft Pulley

  I use an impact gun when space permits, mine claims that it develops
~640lb/ft in reverse, so I haven't run into a crank pulley bolt that
it wouldn't remove.  When space is tight I use a Snap-on 36" breaker
bar and put it on the crank bolt, then I brace the bar against a solid
area and "bump" the starter.  Usually this will break a semi-stubborn
bolt loose.  I have NOT tried this on a D, so it may not work, there
may not be anything solid enough to brace the bar against.  Also, you
want to disable the ignition so the engine won't start.
  I know this isn't the "right way" to do this, but it has saved me
from having to remove the radiator in front-engine cars.  
If you try this, you do so at your own risk.  The bar can break all
sorts of stuff (including you) if you set it up incorrectly, or get
between it and the frame.  Also, since the D is mostly fiberglass back
there, it might not have a strong enough place to brace the bar
against.  That said, it might just do the trick.

Matt Smith

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "natesky1980" <ncskalsk@xxxx> wrote:
> A proper torque-rated (>150ft. lbs) impact wrench will remove the 
> pulley without the need to lock the flywheel.  I've done it this way 
> a couple times with no complaints.
> Other than using a impact wrench or locking the flywheel, the only 
> method left (that I can think of) is blocking the wheels and putting 
> the transmission in drive (or reverse), that should allow you to 
> remove the nut with a breaker bar.  I wouldn't recommend this method 
> (even though I have in the past, on a manual).  Keep in mind that in 
> drive the car will attempt to roll backwards as you apply counter-
> clockwise force to the crank and vice-versa in reverse.
> I've heard, and it makes sense to me, that you shouldn't apply lock-
> tite when you put the nut back on (although the manual recommends it).
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