RE: [DML] Re: Speedometer bouncing
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RE: [DML] Re: Speedometer bouncing



Harold,

You are correct about the shorter cable but did not mention the improved
support bracket introduced at the same time. From VIN #005179 a 24" cable
was introduced along with a bracket to keep the cable from kinking and away
from the tire. The earlier 36" cable was zip-tied to the A/C hose and then
looped over to the angle drive causing vibration and increased drag on the
angle drive. We sell an our own improved version of the shorter cable
(#111412G - $58.75) and the NOS bracket (#110528 - $19.95). These parts
often solve the shaky needle at lower speeds problem. You can read Parts
Bulletin PI-09-8/82 for more information. We have also just introduced a NEW
ONE PIECE CABLE (#112421G - $78.75) that eliminates the Lambda counter and
upper cable. Please note it's not listed on our website yet but we have them
in stock. This will further reduce the drag on the angle drive and hopefully
lead to longer life for that poorly designed part as well as the cable
itself. Most DMLers are savvy enough not to need an idiot light to remind
them to change the oxygen sensor anyway and it has a bad habit of coming on
early as well! We are considering offering a kit with the one piece cable,
support bracket, and angle drive at a reduced price if there is enough
interest in it. 

Thank you,
Robert Grady,

P.J.Grady Inc. 

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Harold McElraft
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:41 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Speedometer bouncing

The bouncing is usually caused by the OEM lower cable that is too long 
(a subsequent change used a shorter cable - there was a bulletin on 
this I believe). The longer cable has too much bend in it and allows 
the cable to have accelerating rotations in it. Poor lubrication will 
usually amplify the acceleration and the bouncing. If it is lubricated 
with a proper, thin, non hardening lubricant it will usually minimize 
after some "settling in". Unfortunately, the longer lower cable also 
allowed moisture to collect in a trap effect in the cable behind the 
front wheel before it entered the car (there is usually some extra 
rubber piece over the cable too that help this) thus causing seizure 
of the cable in the housing and often destroying the angle drive when 
it seizes. The longer cable can cause various problems.

Order the shorter cable from DMCH (the last time I tried they were 
out) or, get the Teflon coated cable from DPNW. DPNW's is a longer 
cable and initially had some of the bounce but after running a while 
is virtually all gone.

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Nick Kemp" <nkemp@xxxx> wrote:
>
> I too have a bouncing speedo.  I've done a bunch of things to it and 
it
> still bounces.
> 
> Anyway, here are additional thoughts:
> - Check to see that the cable through the hub is not pushing the 
yellow cap
> out a bit.  If so it will kink the cable when the hub is tight.  




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