Re: [DML] Re: Engine Dies at idle HELP!

[Soma576@xxxxxxx]

In a message dated 1/10/2006 9:37:37 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
blackaddertoo@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

so i  think with my car the microswitch may be faulty or there is a 
diode next  to the cpu, or the wire feed from the distributer (which 
tells the cpu the  engine revolutions, and obviously check fuse 1 
which feeds the idle  system.


>>>
Idle speed microswitches are one of those parts that seems to be failing  
more often lately.  
 
Try removing it and hooking it up to a multimeter to test for proper  
function.  While it is on the meter (must be a digital for this test) try  tapping it 
while it is 'on' to see if it momentarily shuts 'off' for a split  second.  
If it does, replace it.  A needle meter won't swing fast  enough for that test. 
 John Hervey sells a nice quality switch made by  Honeywell which I feel is 
superior to OEM - and it's cheaper too!
 
Also some commonly overlooked things are to clean all your grounds  
(especially engine mount on the passenger side and by the p/s trailing arm bolt)  and 
also check to make sure that the ignition advance solenoid is working  
properly.  It should be switching vacuum around when the engine is at  different 
operating temperatures - check the shop manual for proper function and  
temperatures.  Have all your disposable ignition components been replaced  with OEM 
parts? And what about the lambda sensor? New??
 
Another piece of advice is to remove the pipe that goes from the idle  speed 
motor to the lower half of the air metering unit and replace the O-ring on  
it.  This is a source of massive vacuum leak that can be so bad  the engine 
won't even start.  Lastly, make sure the vacuum check  valve (functions like a 
diode) just off of the CPR is pointed in  the right direction.  
 
Also make sure you are running your tests with the HVAC system shut off to  
eliminate vacuum leaks in other parts of the car.  
 
... and get a KJet fuel pressure tester!  Wise investment, I have used  mine 
a few times in the last five years not only on my car but on friends' as  well.
 
If all of this stuff doesn't work I would suggest ignoring the exact  problem 
you have at the moment and starting from square one.  In other  words, 
disassemble, clean, and test every part of the car's fuel system and idle  system 
starting at the fuel pump.  If any part doesn't meet the strictest  of 
standards, replace it.  The shop manual does a good job explaining how  things work - 
read Fuel, Emmisions, and Idle section thoroughly until you 100%  understand 
everything and can explain it someone else.  PJ Grady offers a  great service 
where you can send him your entire fuel injection system incl. the  fuel 
distributor, cold start system, CPR system, idle speed motor system, and  air 
metering system w/ switches and he will put it on a car that is known to be  100% 
otherwise - and he will clean, test, and replace whatever parts are no good  as 
well as set all of your adjustments for you.  When I did this four years  ago I 
think basic setup and diagnostics started at about $375.  Might be  worth it 
if you are really stumped.
 
Good Luck-
Andy    
 
Fargo, ND  
1982 DeLorean DMC12 VIN 11596



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