[DML] Re: Fuse #12 Blues
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[DML] Re: Fuse #12 Blues



Tom,

 The drivers door has 2 switches, one is for the ignition buzzer, are you sure you didn't 
pull the wires on that one instead of the door ajar switch?

Does the red dash light stay on with the the door lights? Also I have never experienced a 
Diode failier that allowed current to backflow. Usualy they just fail like a blown fuse  and 
cause an open circuit. Most of the time when then the door lights don't go out is because 
of poor switch contact with the striker plate on the door.  That is why the switches usually 
have a rubber tip slipped over the end of the switch. sometimes you need to pull it out a 
little. Effectively lengthening the switch stem. This will let the door contact it sooner when 
in the closed position. Hopefully it is enough to open the switch contacts.

Dennis


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Tom Tait" <TTait@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Most or all of my interior bulbs are burnt out I think (low on my list as
> I'm not driving the car much yet), but the red and yellow lights in the
> doors work.  Up until a few days ago they worked fine, went off with the
> door switch normally.  Then they stayed on one night,  I charged the battery
> back up and pulled fuse #12 and they went out, fuse back in and they came on
> - no surprise there.  Then I pulled both wires off the back of both door
> switches until I had time to replace or repair the faulty door switch - and
> the lights stayed on.
> 
> I looked at the wiring diagram and realized that I must have a faulty light
> delay module, so I pulled it out.  With that module (the white one) out, and
> both door switches unplugged, the lights were still on.
> 
> I assume I have a bad diode or two, but where else do I look for a short to
> ground, which I assume is the problem.
> 
> Fuse #12 sits lonely in the ashtray tonight,  waiting for its chance to be
> reinstalled, please help.
> 
> Tom
> 10902
>








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