[DML] Re: Torsion bar adjustment
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[DML] Re: Torsion bar adjustment

As Rob points out this is a very high stress area. You do not want to
compromise any of the parts by weaking them or improperly tapping
them. If you cannot get the anchor bracket off easily it can mean the
head of the torsion bar is split. If you do manage to force the
bracket off, once the bar is not restrained by the bracket the head
can expand to the point where the allen wrench slips inside and the
torsion bar unwinds uncontrolably. This is one area of the car where
if things go wrong they can quickly get way over the level of skill of
the "average" owner. You may want to reconsider and drive 4 hours to
someone more experienced. Retapping and using a thread insert is not
recomended in such a high stress area and replacing the nut is a big
process. It could be that only the threads on the bolt are "munched
up" from not relieving all the stress on it as you unscrewed it.
Reinserting such a "munched up" bolt then does damage the threads in
the nut. A careful examination of the threads will tell. When I do
door adjustments for the members at our annual Spring Social, if I
cannot get a bolt out easily or the bracket does not come off easily I
have to pass on it, I am not able to spend the time required to
properly fix it. Besides I don't like doing that around a lot of
people, there is always the danger things can get away even from an
experienced person!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <rob@xxxx> wrote:
> Ryan,
> If you've never re-tapped a thread before this area is not the place to
> learn. If you want to keep the same size thread you will need an 8mm
> "time-sert" thread repair kit at least. You must also be prepared
for the
> stripped weldnut that is used at this spot to possibly fall off if
the welds
> have been compromised. At that point you will need to cut open the
roof and
> weld in a new nut. To complete the repair you will want to weld the s

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