Re: [DML] Torsion bar adjustment
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [DML] Torsion bar adjustment


When I did this all I used was the following...

- 2 People (Including myself)
- 1 LONG 3/8" Allen wrench
- Socket and ratchet to remove bolts on torsion bar retainer
- 4' black iron pipe to hold the allen wrench and give leverage.

Obviously with this method you have to remove the louvre's.  Open the door 
as far as it will go and prop it up.  You don't need anything special here, 
just the right length 2x4.  After removing the plastic cover plate hiding 
the mounts, have the other guy put some pressure on the bar with the allen 
wrench and pipe assembly, then you start to loosen the bolts.  The guy 
holding the pipe will quickly get a feel for how much pressure is needed. 
Once you've removed both bolts and the retaining bracket move the pipe 
towards you since you are relieving pressure (if you're doing the drivers 
side, the one with the pipe will be standing on the drivers side of the 
car).  Put the bracket back on and tighten the bolts down.

I've also heard that taking the strut off is a good idea because you can 
move the door up higher, thus relieving more pressure for the guy holding 
the pipe.  Sounds like a good idea, but I did not do it that way so can't 
vouch for it.  But if I had to do this again I would try that method.  The 
other thing you might want to look at is if your bars are hitting the rear 
hinge of the door.  Most people will blame this on the mounting plate being 
bent, but mine is perfectly straight and my bars still rub.  For now I've 
used David T's trick of the rubber between the hinge and the bar, so far so 
good.  But for a more permanent fix you might try putting a washer on the 
outside bolt of the torsion bar retaining bracket, between the metal plate 
it bolts into and the bracket.  You'll notice that the bracket forces the 
bar to bend in a little bit, thus hitting the hinge, by using a washer it 
allows the bar to sit more straight.  So check the bar/hinges before you 
loosen the torsion bars.

Most people will tell you that removing the louvre's is a bad idea because 
they're hard to line back up again.  While this can be true, if you have the 
right tools you can do it in a few minutes.  I've always had good luck using 
a series of "wobbly ratchet extensions".  This allows you to close the 
louvre's and tighten the bolts from the outside since you can guide the 
ratchet out one of the louvre slots.  It's hard to explain using words, but 
works every time.

I've always looked at this process as a little "safer" than using the jig. 
Mainly because you are not relying on so many tools.  If you're using the 
jig you will have to get a lot of extensions and if one of them breaks then 
you're in trouble.  By only using a pipe and allen wrench there are no 
ratchets to break and you're keeping the load right at the bar rather than 
spread over a bunch of extensions.

Sorry this is so long, but there's quite a bit to it, if all goes well 
you'll be done in a matter of minutes.

Good Luck,
Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

Home Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN

Copyright 2006  All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
DMCForum Mailing List Archive  DMCNews Mailing List Archive  DMC-UK Mailing List Archive