Re: [DML] Fanzilla Clones
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Re: [DML] Fanzilla Clones


Installing new fans into your car is an excellant idea, and i have 
heard good things about John's new fans.  Although this is a partial 
solution, you are looking at the problem in the wrong viewpoint.  
The problem is not the cooling system,  but the instant draw of 
current two fan motors places on the electrical system when the fans 
engauge.  Your new fans may only run on 11 amps, and most likely 
pulls double that on startup.  This is why Fanzilla and my module 
attempt to stager the cooling fans.  If the only problem we had were 
fan motors sizes, and the amperage it pulls there would have been 
new fan motors over a decade earlier.  As for fan motors a good 
friend of mine has 600k miles on his fans, and there still going 
strong (bosch builds nice motors).  I'm not trying to say your 
solution is bad,  it is just part of the solution.

-Shain Brannan

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright@xxxx> wrote:
> Marty,
> > The current drawn by John's fan setup is well within the safe
> > operating range of an ordinary 40 amp auto relay, with no need 
> > overly complicated control systems. You can't even tell when they
> > come on, except for the "cooling fan fail" light".
> >
> > PS: My coolant guage needle points to just slightly above the 
> > mark above cold after warm up.
> Likewise here. New 3 core radiator from Toby & John's fan upgrade, 
> temperature is identical to yours in all conditions. Sitting in 
stop &
> go traffic, 105 degrees outside with the A/C on full blast and the
> needle never goes near the halfway mark on the gauge. Sits just 
> 1/4 most of the time and goes up only slightly in the above
> conditions.
> I also see no reason for a fan modules or circuit upgrades; John's
> fans draw a fraction of the power the original setup did. They're 
> extremely quiet. Compared to $200 for a Zilla plus who knows how 
> to replace the stock fans when they die, I feel I made the right
> decision.
> -Ryan

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