Re: [DML] Door Lock Solenoids

[Ryan Wright <ryanpwright@xxxxxxxxx>]

Paul,

If your locks are currently working, the best (also happens to be the
cheapest!) way to ensure they will continue working and not lock you
in is to replace the solenoids with linear actuators. The entire kit
is only $100 from DPNW.

http://delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K2500DP&Category_Code=9401

The problem with the door locks is twofold; the lock controller is
under engineered, and the lock solenoids draw too much current.
Replacing the solenoids significantly reduces the current draw on the
controller. Technically, you could also replace the controller if you
wanted to be 100% sure of no future problems. Or, you can rebuild it
(cheap), pay someone to rebuild it (still cheap, I think John Hervey
does this), or upgrade to a Lockzilla (expensive and unnecessary in my
humble opinion).

-Ryan

On 8/8/05, sweetp01569 <paul.sweet@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> My car still have the original door lock electric components.  They
> are still connected to electrically lock or unlock both door when I
> only operate the drivers side lock.  I also have the dash light
> indicator that says "Lock Doors".  I hear that this arrangement can
> result with possibly locking me inside or out of my car.  Should I
> disconnect the circuit that controls this?  If I do, how do my locks
> work after this - one by one, and does the dash light not operate
> after this.
> 
> I had my door panel off once to work on a window, but could smell
> that very familiar "burnt" wire smell inside.  Not sure if it was
> from the previous owner replacing the window motor, or perhaps it is
> the door solenoid working too hard.  I am just curious as to what is
> recommended for the door lock situation.  I do like the electrical
> operation, but if it is safer for me to use manually, I will.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Paul
> Vin 10944
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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