[DML] Re: still leaking from ottertat

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have to take exception with 2 points in this post. If you use
silicone sealer on the red silicone seal for the otterstadt the red
silicone seal will fail (it will split, again, ask me how I know!).
The other point, you CAN have so much air in the radiator that you
will not get enough circulation to have the otterstadt switch work.
You MUST bleed the radiator. All it takes is loosening either hose at
the top of the radiator. When the air stops hissing and you get a
couple of drops of coolant you did enough. If the system is working
properly there is a "self bleeder" on the radiator which sends the air
to the header bottle. It can't do the initial job though, it can only
do small amounts of air. The fitting that the otterstadt switch and
seal goes into in the pipe MUST me smooth and clean or the seal will
not work. You can clean it up with some sandpaper if necessary. Be
careful not to overpressure the system. Generally you will blow the
end tanks off the radiator before anything else. Have the pressure cap
tested. The header bottle should be 1/2 full cold. On the cars I have
seen the switch (or seal) leak it was either the seal was
deteriorated, the switch had a crack in it, or the pipe was corroded
and was no longer smooth.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Craig, The only time I have ever had a leak around the otterstat was
when
> the pipe was corroded and the seal wouldn't 't seal. A little
silicone could
> helped, but sometimes the pipe may have to be replaced.
> As far as the bleeding of the air, That can be done at the bleeder
on top of
> the water pump with about 99% total air removal. What's left on the
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