[DML] Re: Spoke too soon! - Thanks for tips on brake job.
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[DML] Re: Spoke too soon! - Thanks for tips on brake job.



Thanks Mark,

When I install a new master cylinder, do I still need to be 
concerned with this, or is it OK to push the pedal to the floor when 
I bleed them.

Thanks,

Paul

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:
> Sounds like your Master Cylinder is shot.
> 
> Inside the Master Cylinder it develops a wear pattern through the 
> years. When you bleed the breaks you push the o-ring seals inside 
the 
> master cylinder past the wear marks and they develop little cuts 
in 
> them and then fail.
> 
> When i bleed brakes i put a hunk of wood under the pedal so when 
you 
> "pump them up" you wont push the master cylinder past the wear 
marks 
> and damage it.
> 
> Mark V
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 15, 2005, at 7:02 AM, sweetp01569 wrote:
> 
> > After all the pats on the back I gave myself for doing the 
brakes,
> > they started failing on my ride home yesterday!  I was coming to 
a
> > stop, pressing the brake pedal, when the pedal lost pressure and
> > slowly lowered to the floor!   I had to pump them quickly to 
build
> > up some pressure, and worked my way home that way, making sure I 
had
> > enough room in front of me.
> >
> > I immediately suspected that I didn't tighten a line fitting or
> > bleeder screw enough, but when I got home, I didn't notice any 
fluid
> > leaking in the driveway.  I haven't checked anything yet, and 
will
> > this weekend.  I am hoping it is a simple answer.  Could I hve a 
big
> > air pocket left in the system, is the brake cylinder failing?  A
> > little puzzled, but hope to solve tomorrow.
> >
> > Paul
> > VIN 10944
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet@xxxx>
> > wrote:
> >> I wanted to thank those who gave me guidance on my recent brake
> > job
> >> I did myself.  I replaced all the original calipers (and 
original
> >> brake shoes still on the car - 27,000 miles) with the loaded
> > cadmium
> >> coated rebuilds from SpecialT Auto (not plugging the vendor, as 
I
> >> also purchase from all of them, to share and support those who
> >> support our fine cars, but nice pieces, nonetheless!)
> >>
> >> I was only able to get the driver's side front and rear rotors 
off
> >> the car, even after tips on removing the rear spacer plates and
> >> exhaustive attempts with a rubber mallet, then a 2 x 4 and 
hammer
> > (I
> >> have a souvenir blood blister behind my middle fingernail from
> > that
> >> hammer - Ouch!)
> >>
> >> I was going to take them to a local shop for turning, but since 
I
> >> could only get two off, I kept them all on the car instead and
> >> sanded them with a rotary attachment on my drill with #80
> > sandpaper,
> >> as suggested by David Teitelbaum (Thanks David, it worked like a
> >> charm to eliminate the glaze, and saves rotor material in the 
long
> >> run!).
> >>
> >> I bought stainless break lines, but had trouble freeing the old
> >> lines (was bending the frame mounts trying the free the nut, and
> > the
> >> rears seemed a little challenging to get my hands in there - 
I'll
> >> wait till someone else can put them in, perhaps during a visit 
to
> > PJ
> >> Grady's).
> >>
> >> After installing the new loaded calipers and bleeding the 
brakes,
> >> the car handles so much better!  The brakes feel like new (No 
more
> >> squealing and shimmying (my passenger front caliper was never
> > fully
> >> releasing the rotor).
> >>
> >> Feels good to complete a job myself and bringing the Delorean 
to a
> >> condition closer to that when it was new.
> >>
> >> Thanks again everyone!
> >>
> >> Paul
> >> VIN 10944
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> > moderators@xxxx
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see 
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >







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