[DML] Re: Captive nut for door striker pin
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[DML] Re: Captive nut for door striker pin



2 or 3 years ago, I made your "hypothetical situation" a reality when
working on another person's car.  I was able to reattach the nut
without completely removing the fender, but I did have to take many
screws out (my skinny arms helped quite a bit as well).

You'll need to remove about 1/3 of the rear portion of the rusted
screws holding the rocker panel to the body.  Next you remove the
small bolt that holds the corner in front of the wheel well to the
rocker panel.  Then you can CAREFULLY pull it down just enough to get
to the 3 probably-not-rusted lower stainless panel screws.  Next
you'll need to CAREFULLY pull back your outer weatherstrip most of the
way up the front edge of the panel, and remove those screws holding
the stainless panel in.  At this point the panel should be able to be
CAREFULLY flexed out just enough to fish your arm in there (watch out
for cuts from the sharp stainless edges) and grab the nut and
hopefully by feel, set it back into the cage for it.

Only took me 30 minutes to do, but on this car the rocker panel had
previously been removed and re-screwed in using stainless sheet metal
screws. The rocker panel is what will take you the longest. (Assuming
you ever had to deal with this hypothetical situation).  Good luck.

Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC6960

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxx> wrote:
> Hypothetically speaking...
> 
> If through some small miracle, one were to dislodge the striker pin
captive 
> nut and it were to fall somewhere into the body... which infill,
interior, 
> or body panels should be removed to re-aquire said captive nut?  Let us 
> presuppose that it was the passenger side rear pin, and that fishing
around 
> in the body with a small telescoping magnet proved useless.  I've
looked at 
> the parts manual diagrams, but they're not so good for things like this.
> 
> Thanks for any help with this... experiment.
> -Luke & 10270






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