Re: [DML] Jacking Points
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Re: [DML] Jacking Points



I, personally do not like ramps. Some of them are made very cheaply.
They don't lift the car enough and they don't take the weight off the
wheels so you can't remove them. The car is also unstable
side-to-side. They MUST be used on a concrete floor and it HAS to be
perfectly level. It is possible to drive right up and over them too. A
good floor jack is not that expensive along with 4 jackstands. I use a
floor jack with a short piece of 2X4 on the pad and I lift in the
center of the front crossmember or the rear crossmember. I place the
jackstands with a rag on them to protect the epoxy under the front tow
hooks and in the rear under the rear carriers. In the rear you have to
be careful when you let the weight down the rear wheels will spread so
you have to reposition the jackstands to keep them flat on the floor.
I get the car way up in the air so I can move easily under it with a
creeper. I call it "Hover Mode". I have seen what can happen when you
cheap out on thse kinds of things. No one wants to hear about someone
who got hurt at his hobby. Also NEVER use cinder blocks or wire
baskets to hold things up. I personally have seen them give way
without warning. If you can't afford jackstands, large pieces of 4X4
can be subsituted but it becomes unstable if you go too high. Four
jackstands can be bought for $50 at most places and a decent floor
jack can be bought for $150. If you are going to work on your own car
for the enjoyment (and to save money) some of the money you save has
to go for some basic tools. A creeper can be bought for $25 and a
trouble light for $12. We are not talking a huge investment here, just
buy quality stuff, it can be used on ANY car. Cheap stuff will not
last and will let you down when you really need it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Steven L. Alves" <steve@xxxx> wrote:
>ack






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