RE: [DML] Scathing Strut Rebuttals.

[<rob@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Calm down Rustproof. Was I really that scathing? I'm not offended at all! I
just stated that I wish I knew your name and mentioned that 20" of preload
is enough to bend your roof. I thought you might like to know. BTW I made a
little mistake on that post and meant to say items two and THREE need to be
the same to compare lift piston strength. 
Anyway I certainly was not trying to offend you either so give me a call so
we can figure out whether you have a problem or not. I won't bite you I
promise. :)

Rob Grady

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Rustproof
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 11:05 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Scathing Strut Rebuttals.

To All and ESPECIALLY Rob Grady,
This "experiment" was not meant to be an attack on any of the vendors,
especially Rob Grady who is as knowledgeable as anyone in the business. As I
stated
in my original comments that the doors were adjusted to my previous struts
that worked well in the daytime temps and not at all during the evening
temps. Hence the reason for purchasing the new struts. The old struts were
simply removed and the "hang" was about 20 inches door base to sill bottom
and they have been adjusted that way for my last two sets of struts. This
"hang" height without struts in place served to give the past two sets of
struts (from other vendors) enough assist to get the doors to open fully
with struts in place. I also added that there is an additional burden of the
launcher solenoids that this level of torsion bar adjustment compensated
for. All I did was replace the old (That worked well when new) with the
Grady struts. The door flew open. I believe Rob when he says this should be
expected. I then adjusted them until the doors were just about an inch from
the sill hoping to find a happy medium. This is five inches below that
recommended in the DMC tech articles I was able to find. Still, even at this
height, the doors opened with some pretty good bounce at the top with no
discernable braking action REGARDLESS of the temperature. No matter how you
slice it, these are in fact, VERY powerful struts.  I don't work for
Consumer Reports. I have no axe to grind. Nor do I have the resources to
purchase several pairs of struts to do comparisons just for laughs. I asked
a question and got mixed answers. I just set out to get an answer for
myself. (This is still an exchange of information forum isn't it?) I needed
a pair of struts and I wanted the best.  Rob, I have the greatest respect
for you and that is why I purchased yours first. Everything I have purchased
from you in the past has been top-notch without exception. However, most of
the emails I received (off-list) stated that your struts were on the weak
side. I didn't write them, I just read them and I wanted to see if they was
true. Well, the only conclusion so far is that the pair I have certainly do
not warrant that description. I now also believe that each strut set just
might have to be adjusted based on the environment and other individual
mechanical variables each situation presents. These may be due to
inconsistencies in manufacture and a myriad of other unpredictable
variables. Lastly, I did in fact ask for suggestions and test input from
EVERYONE on the list(vendors included) when I first announced I planned the
evaluation. I could have used your input then. I just assumed the vendors
were reading the list. My mistake. Next time I'll consult them directly.
Hey, I just reported my experience. If I offended you in some way, I
apologize. It certainly was never my intention.
Rustproof
Vin 1559

----- Original Message -----
From: <rob@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: [DML] struts


> Hi Tom,
>
> You bring up a very good and often overlooked point. The lift piston is
just
> 1/3rd of a three part equation with all parts being roughly equal but very
> different. The parts are as follows.
>
> 1. Lift Piston
>
> 2. Torsion Bar Initial Preload
>
> 3. Ambient Temperature (assuming you're outdoors)
>
> It is difficult to do a valid comparison without the numbers one and two
> being identical. For instance Rustproof VIN 1559 said (What's wrong with
> using a real name?) that he set the torsion bar unaided pre-load (No
piston)
> to the "proper "hang" point". Who told him this? I would have told him 3"
to
> 5" is the proper preload for any new piston. 20" should be sufficient to
> catapult the person opening the door over to the passenger side of the car
> not to mention damaging the roof support structure! Since he's conducting
a
> "test" it would be advisable to contact the supplier for proper set-up or
> installation information. His doors would fly up with any new lift piston.
> Each notch on a torsion bar equals about 5% of the total charge. Much more
> than 2 notches, equal to two incremental adjustments, and you run the risk
> of bending the roof support structure, which is why most lift pistons
should
> be changed every three to five years. I could talk about lift pistons and
> DeLorean doors for hours as I consider it my "sub-specialty" but I have to
> head out of town for the weekend so no more boring lecture for now.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Rob Grady
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