[DML] Re: A/C troubles

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

In my experiences with automobile refrigeration systems there is often
too much air movement from belts and fans to use a sniffer
effectively. I like the real simple soapy bubble solution, it helps to
actually SEE the leak. I agree the more common things that leak are
the service valves and the high pressure (discharge) hose. The
compressor seal is also a culprit especially if the car has been
sitting a long period of time. For the service (shrader) valves it is
just good practice to replace them. I also like brass caps, if the
service valves leak the metal caps will stop any leak where the
plastic caps are only to keep dirt out of the service valves. For any
refill you should also check the oil fill on the compressor. Better
yet remove it and put in fresh. Not only is it economically a good
idea to fix leaks, it is the law. Any leak over a certain amount per
year MUST be repaired. Don't forget the mode switch. If it hisses it
probably isn't moving all of the actuaters right so it may cause you
to not have all the cooling you need. When testing your A/C make sure
it is "making water". You should see water coming out from the car
near the front right wheel. This tells you 2 things. One, it is
getting cold and you have good air flow over the condensor and
evaporator coils, and 2 it tells you the drain isn't plugged up. Make
sure the A/C belt is not loose and the idler pulley bearings are not
rough or stuck. During A/C season it is even more important that your
cooling system is in tip-top shape. It has to work a lot harder.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Warren Wallingford" <warren@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> The question about the orfice tube reminded me that air conditioning
season has come to South Texas this year and will spread to the
hibernating North soon.  The A/C problem we hear most about is that
the refrigerant has leaked out.  The complaint takes the form of "it's
not blowing cold" or "the compressor goes off and on" or "the
compressor won't engage".  Without going into a detailed description
of the low-side cylcling used to regulate the system, it will suffice
to say that all of these symtoms are usually caused by a low
refrigerant level.  In the happy days before global warming, we just
pumped in another can of Freon, available everywhere for a dollar a
pound.  Now R12 costs $50 or more per 12 oz. can and you need a degree
and a federal certification to buy it.  Worse, it will run right out the 








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