RE: [DML] Front breaks not working

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Steve,It would help to have more information such as, can you see the piston
extend out or the pad move in when you press on the brake peddle. What is
the thickness of the rotor and what is the thickness of the pad.
Rotor may be to thin or the pistons just aren't moving in the hole or the
pads have trouble. Bleeding the front is independent of the back since there
are 2 pressure seal in the master.

Delorean Brake power servo as listed on the web site:

When your brakes are soft it's hydraulics, When they are hard it's the power
servo or a vacuum leak. Rebuilt with a 5 year warranty.
$124.95 exchange.

John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com



-----Original Message-----
From: basfe25 [mailto:dmcman73@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 2:28 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Front breaks not working





Hi all,

Been a long time since I posted here but here goes.
I am still in the process of restoring my DMC and everything is going
smoothly except the front breaks! I installed new/rebuilt calipers all
around, replaced all break lines (I did a chassis of restoration) and
installed a brand new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder and
bled all the calipers in sequence to what the repair manual states. My
rear breaks work when I press my break peddle down but I am able to
spin the front tires with the break peddle pressed. I've bled the
front calipers like 30 times, tried a pressure bleeder and Rob Grady
was kind enough to swap out my master cylinder I purchased from him
and they still do not work! Is there a magic way to bleed the front
breaks? I've bled tons of break systems before and NEVER ran into this
problem! I've also went ahead and swapped out the calipers with
another set of rebuilt ones and they still do not work. The only break
system component that I did not replace was the break booster....could
this be causing my problem? Just to trouble shoot, I disconnected the
break line going from the master cylinder going to the front breaks
and put compressed air into the lines and sure enough the breaks
locked the rotor as they should. This is the only thing that is
keeping me from test driving it on the road!!!

My next test, I was going to try to connect the front break lines to
the rear breaks port on the master cylinder to see if that would
work....but that required that I bend the tubes and I don't want to
risk cracking them.

Thanks in advanced,

Steve









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