[DML] Re: Clutch Problem (Bleeding)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

This procedure is best accomplished from above due to the angle of the
bleeder screw -- sorry. An extra long extension (12") on the socket
wrench makes the job easier. Practice locating the bleeder screw by
feel because it's difficult to see it and reach into it
simultaneously. I'd recommend the hose-immersed-in-fluid method so you
only have to open & close the bleeder screw one time: pour some brake
fluid into a jar, run a hose from the bleeder screw to the jar
positioned so that air bubbles will rise to the surface, then force
several reserviors of fluid through the system by pumping the pedal.
Because the slave cylinder is higher than the master cylinder I insert
a check valve in the hose, allowing me to bleed the system without
assistance. Monitor the level of fluid in the reservoir -- if it runs
dry you'll have to start all over again. 

BTW: Should you ever need to replace the slave cylinder, this is best
accomplished from below *IF* you can remove the exhaust crossover pipe
(some people have trouble removing nuts on the manifold and converter
studs). Slave cylinder mounting bolts are inserted from the front of
the car -- very difficult from above with the intake manifold and
fuel/air mixture unit in place. If you remove the exhaust crossover
pipe, reinstall it with stainless nuts to aid future removal. So many
items, such as cap & rotor, spark plug wires, heater core and vacuum
hoses, etc are easily accessed from below that you will want to take
it off again.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jpro8071" <jpro8071@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> I need to bleed my clutch, can someone send a few extra details on the
> easiest way to get to the bleed valve on the transmission end? 
> Easiest with the car in the air?  Left side or right side for access?
> Thanks,
> Eric
> 









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