There is a better way to find small vacuum leaks. This is an old mechanic's trick and is to be used cautiously. Hook up a tach meter so you can watch the engine RPM's. Next get a Burnsomatic torch (the kind with the disposable propane bottle that is used for plumbing), remove the tip and slid a short piece of hose over the pipe. Now aim the hose at a suspected leak, crack open the valve for a second and watch the tach. If you see a change in RPM's then you are near a leak. This MUST be done carefully as propane is highly flammable. Any sparks (like from bad ignition wires) can set the propane on fire. This will find the smallest leaks and help you pinpoint them. I think this is safer than using carb cleaner as this is a gaseous mixture as opposed to a liquid so it dissapates more quickly. It also has a more immediate effect on the idle. Ether (starting fluid) can also be used but is also dangerous and harder to control with an aerosol can. From all that has been posted about vacuum leaks the best bet is to just inspect and/or replace all gaskets, seals, and hoses. This procedure is meant to find something unusual after having gone over everything and still having problems. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote: > Even carburetors will eventually start to leak there. Problem is steel > shaft rotating in a softer metal. Mine sucks a little, but not enough > yet to cause real problems. Will watch as car ages. >