Re: reassembling after water pump replacement - quick question

["content22207 <brobertson@xxxx>" <brobertson@xxxx>]

What happened with bolt stub? Were you able to drill through center?
Did you use a helicoil? Slather anything on the threads to keep it
from happening again?

Except for stupid wiring harness (would it have killed JZD to spend a
little more for an extra inch or two of wire), I found intake removal
not so bad. O rings on the air passages are a novel idea -- almost as
if the nice PRV people want you to keep popping the thing off. How
much elasto do you have left in your fluorelastometric hoses? Only
real problem I ran into was getting tank lines back onto their hose
barbs (my injector lines et al are steel). Were no problem up front so
I think engine heat has slowly baked them hard. Rigged up a threaded
brass coupler to allow easier removal in the future. As you
discovered, there's a lot of mischief down there (something tells me
this isn't the last time my intake's coming off...)

Oh, what do you think about access to the ignition distributor without
intake in place? *THAT'S* the time to change cap & rotor!

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "James LaLonde <deloreandmcxii@xxxx>"
<deloreandmcxii@xxxx> wrote:
> In the course of replacing my Water pump, cleaning that awful area 
> down in there, replacing fuel injectors, and doing a quick tune-up-- 
> I'm also (of course) replacing all my vacuum hoses.
> 
> Should the green part of the vacuum switch (on the internal water 
> pipe) rotate freely of the brass nut portion? It does on mine. Worth 
> replacing either way? How about the rest of the switch/sensors down 
> in there? I'll never be down that far again... so.... 
> 
> Other than that one bolt the water pump project went (is going) 
> smoothly, if a bit cold out there in the garage.
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> James LaLonde 4009