RE: [DML] Exhaust manifolds removal?

["Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx>]

Even if you could find 7mm Stainless studs, I don't think the aluminum against the SS will make for a good combo.

I recently did this job, and found that letting liquid wench soak in for a few days (respraying it every day for a week) did the trick. I did it in 2steps- I let the nuts soak for a week and removed them, then let the studs soak for a week and did them. Everything came out with no fuss. The manifolds were then Ceramic Coated and resurfaced.

All of the parts with the kit sold by PJ Grady which included the hard to find 7mm studs and a newer style 1 piece gasket that had some "spring" too it. I like this gasket because it think it reduced the risk of snapping a stud while torque the nuts in because I did not feel the need to possibly over torque. The new studs were installed with hi-temp (gold color) never-seize.

Others mentioned using extractors to remove broken studs.. I think most experienced shade tree mechanics will tell you that these tools just make it harder for your machine shop to fix the head because they then have to remove the broken tool AND the broken stud!! That is if your lucky enough to not drill in to the aluminum. If you happen to break a stud, I'd suggest NOT trying to remove it unless your are experienced in this art. Bring it toa professional.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Griese [mailto:mike.griese@xxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 8:35 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [DML] Exhaust manifolds removal?
> 
<SNIP>
> 
> When you put it all back together, I would recommend using stainless
> studs, copperized split-ring nuts and Cop-a-Slip antisieze compound.
> Even if you never take the manifolds off again while you own the
> car, the next owner will really appreciate that you did.
> 
> Mike