Re: [DML] New Frame

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>]

> This isn't the reason that the epoxy flakes off. The frames are NOT
> flimsy it just the epoxy was coated on to thick and after so many
> years has lost it's ability to "flex" with the chassis.

My calling the OEM frame 'flimsy' is relative. And granted, there are no
reports of stress fractures/cracks on non-rusted areas even with engine
swaps (with the exception of the crumple tube recall and cracks due to
mounting aftermarket rear sway bars). I agree that the epoxy cracks because
it was applied too thick. However, since the most severe rust problems
occur at stress points, I tend to blame frame flex (rightly or wrongly so)
as also being a contributing factor.

> Every
> chassis is designed to flex with the car as you drive, no frame
> should be built to stay put.
<snip>
> I fear that since the Stainless Steel
> is brittle that it will shear/shatter/not crumple properly in an
> accident.

These were part of the engineering challenge of designing a frame from
stainless steel -- so that it can flex within certain limits while not
accumulating fatigue and still crumple properly in an accident. People seem
to assume that he just copied the OEM frame and substituted stainless steel
of perhaps a heavier thickness in place of the original steel. If this were
true, then it certainly would be dangerous. But Reg Pearce is no dummy. He
knows his materials. There are industry standards of what is to be expected
for a given alloy in various situations. So when designing his frame, Reg
took the properties of the alloy into consideration at every spot on the
frame. We spent well over an hour on the phone discussing all these issues
in detail until I was satisfied. Sure, we would all be curious to see crash
tests of the SS frame, but I feel confident of the PDC design without it.
It is a design based on the already crash-proven OEM frame with
consideration for the properties of the alloy used.

Keep in mind that JZD wanted to have stainless steel frames used on his
production cars. I believe that if he had more time and money to research
it then it would have worked. I hear that the deciding blow to the
stainless frame project was not due to stainless being unsuitable but rather
the need to crash-test the frames under freezing temperatures which was not
practical at the time. On Tamir's website, he has some photos of an OEM
prototype frame made from stainless. Can anyone say more about this?

> I went a different route...I sand blasted my old frame and recoated
> it with POR-15 paint.

This is exactly what I would have done if I were using my old frame. There
is surface rust under the epoxy in places but nothing rusted through. I
will either save this frame for a second car or sell it to someone dealing
with a badly rusted one.

> If your front end was that badly damaged then you could have just
> simply purchased the front end extension from Rob at PJ Grady and
> replaced the old damaged extension.

Yeah, but that wouldn't be as much fun. :-) Besides, I'm not sure my frame
is damaged at all with the exception of two bad tow hooks and the epoxy
problems. It looks like a previous owner must have parked under someone
else's high bumper. I'm suspicious that the car has a used hood,
straightened right front fender, new left front fender, used grille and a
used but repainted fascia with repairs to the front center fiberglass
underbody. Remaining evidence is a bent radiator grille, cracked fan shroud
and a bent bracket inside the fascia. I'm not too terribly disappointed
that I didn't know these things until after I bought the car. Deep down
inside I know that this little wedge car and me belong together. Every time
I see it from the front, it seems to smile back at me and say, "Cool". :-)
And every time I finish a project, I say to myself, "more cool; new
technology assimilated." You see, I like to pretend that it is a Borg
vessel. Maybe I should have it assimilate some green neon, too.

You will be cool. Resistance is futile.
Walt Tampa, FL