Re: Clutch master expiration date

["jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

Since you are purchesing these parts from Rob Grady he can give you 
all of this info. The adjustable link was a bad solution for the 
plastic line. Bleeding is a two person job unless you have specialized 
equipment for bleeding hydraulic systems. Rob can give you the correct 
length to set the adjustable link. You can replace the clutch line 
using jackstands. Be sure to use Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 brake fluid. If 
the clutch went out on you then the fluid in the brake system should 
be checked and probably flushed too. According to the owner's manual 
the brakes and clutch are to be flushed every 2 years! If it hasn't 
been done for a long time and then you do flush be prepared to rebuild 
the entire system as once you wash out the dirt and put the clean 
stuff in everything will start to leak. Rarely do these types of 
things go "suddenly". It was probably not working correctly for a 
while and was leaking until enough fluid got out and then the clutch 
wouldn't work. It pays to examine the car carefully. If it was an 
airplane you would be doing a "preflight" and should have seen the 
problem comming. Since it's only a car we jump right in and don't look 
for anything until it won't go anymore! There are very few problems 
that you can't catch with often and careful visual inspections and a 
knowledge of repair history after all it is a 20 year old car!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "mcookwwi" <mark@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, either the 'D' had 2002 jitters or its clutch master cylinder 
> apparently had an expiration date of 12/31/2001, because it died 
last 
> night on my way to a party. Luckily I was close enough to my house 
to 
> make it back into the garage, but I can't even get it into gear this 
> morning.
> 
> When I bought 10901, it had (and still has) the adjustable clutch 
> link. I assume that contributed to the master cylinder going out. I 
> have since purchased the braided line, and a new master cylinder. I 
> will be ordering a new slave tomorrow from PJ Grady so I can do 
> everything at once according to DMC Joe's recommendations. I don't 
> want to damage the new master again, but I don't have the original 
> clutch pedal link. Can I set up the adjustable link to the 'oem' 
> length so I do not damage the new cylinder? Does anyone know what 
> that length is?
> 
> Also
> 
> 1) is it possible for me to bleed the system myself or will I need 
> help as I assume?
> 2) will I need to have the car on a lift in order to replace the 
> plastic clutch line or can I do it on stands?
> 
> We appreciate your help!
> Mark and 10901