Re: front brake rotor replacement

[tobyp@xxxx]

The solid disk rotors can warp if overheated (obviously). I did a 
couple of things to prevent warpage in my car. I removed the dust 
shields to allow free flow of air through the area to enhance cooling. 
I installed new pads (Metalux brand) that run about 200 - 250 degrees 
cooler than normal semi-metallic pads. I am in the planning stages of 
installing active air ducting to the front brakes ... next couple of 
months. Result - no problems in several years of agressive driving on 
the street and on the road race track (turns 3A and 3B will do in just 
about any set of brakes - Seattle International Raceway). The tip 
about hand-torqueing the lug nuts is key also. That is good advice on 
any car you care about. You might want to see if the warpage in your 
rotors can be cleaned up with machining, rather than going straight to 
replacement. Mine were badly warped when I bought the car 13 years 
ago, but cleaned up nicely, and are still above service limit for 
thickness.

--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> Can anyone give me some pointers on replacing the front brake 
rotors? The
> workshop manual doesn't give any procedure for this. Should I 
re-pack the
> wheel bearings while I'm in there?
> 
> When my mom asked me why I keep shaking the steering wheel every 
time I put
> the brakes on, I figure I have been driving with this dangerous 
condition
> long enough. How did the rotors get warped that bad? Two hard 
stops in a
> row from 60mph. That screwed them up real good. And to think that 
the
> window sticker on these cars bragged about the 4 wheel disk brakes. 
But
> then it also bragged about the wonderful epoxy coated frame, and we 
all know
> how that turned out.
> 
> I will say that the brakes are certainly adequate to stop the car 
ONCE. But
> you better give them time to cool before you stomp on it again.
> 
> Walt Tampa, FL