Re: [DML] still problems getting car to run right

["chris" <chris@xxxx>]

Andy

There are 2 Presure regulators, one used when the engine is cold(Control
Pressure Regulator) and the other to keep the 'ideal' fuel pressure(Primary
control pressure regulator).

Disconnect the return fuel line at the pump and put it into some container
that can safely hold 3 or 4 litres of petrol. run the fuel pump ( remove the
RPM relay and connect the white/purple wire with the brown wire ) for 1
minute. In that time you should get back 2 litres of fuel. If you have less
that 2 litres check the lines back to the fuel distributor are clear.
If they are OK then the problem could be you primary control pressure
regualtor which is in the distributor and can be taken out and cleanned and
replaced with more or less shims to increase or decrese the pressure at
which it opens, allowing fuel back to the tank. You can see a bolt on the
side of the distributor which is the regulator, take car when removing it
cos there are some small bits to loose. If you need pics i have an exploded
diagram of the Primary CPR, which i can post at he weekend.

If thats all ok the other thing to check is the control pressure regulator
mounted on the left rocker cover behind the oil filler (2 fuel lines, a
breather pipe and an electrical connector). When the engine is cold pressure
should be around 40 or 50 psi then when warm around 80psi. This is control
by the CPR. It allows the engine to run rich while cold as fuel from the
fuel plunger, in the distributor, is allowed back to the tank and as the CPR
warms up it closes off allowing less fuel into the engine. Also when the
engine is cold and you open the throttle the CPR opens more as the vacum
from the engine is diverted to the CPR, when the engine is at running temp
this vacum controls the vacum advance on the ignition distributor.

I have heard of a guy in the UK who had a blockage between the T junction
for the acumulator and the tank, his car would run for a few minutes then
splutter and die and would not start again. I think he cleared it by blowing
air, from an airline, back through the system.

Hope this is some help.

Someone on ebay is selling a fuel system which was contaminated by rust.Each
compontent is $5, anyone want a used faulty accumulator??:-)

Chris Spratt
Vin 16327 - DOC UK

PS Hope to see you all in Ireland!!

If you cannot find a
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 5:26 PM
Subject: [DML] still problems getting car to run right


> Hello All,
>
> many thanks to everyone who is helping me along! i think i'm getting
closer,
> but there are still some brick walls.
>
> here is the scoop:
> the car will start and run, but it runs like CRAP! i mean it is
studdering,
> shaking, completely sick sounding.