Re: [DML] Intermittant lights

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

I agree with Les that Radio Shack screws & nuts are not the best way to
repair a tail light board. However, I haven't read of any complaints of
recurring problems on the DML.

The first week that I owned my DeLorean and before I knew anyone who knew
anything about these cars, I used some common sense and made my own tail
light fix. I did the same thing that Les did except I added small pieces of
18 gauge bare copper wire through the rivet holes to give a solid connection
for the solder to reach from the rivet to the printed circuit board.
Otherwise I would be relying on the solder alone to provide a structural
connection between the sockets and the board. From experience in
electronics repair, I have learned never to trust solder to make a reliable
'bridge' connection. With proper cleaning and the use of flux, this might
be accomplished, but still it is better to use a small piece of wire if only
for insurance.

I still am not happy with relying on the OEM connectors. Lead solder makes
for a terrible friction connection, and this is exactly what the OEM boards
use -- although I haven't heard of these giving anyone any problems. The
best fix would be to use the new boards since they have gold plated
connectors instead of the OEM tin/lead solder.

By the way, are these new tail light boards a Zilla product?

I just replaced my backup lights with halogen 50 watt bulbs. When I did, I
checked all the bulb sockets for new corrosion. You know what? I found
some. So this time I put everything back together with a light coat of LPS
brand spray oil on the electrical connections. My college friends in the
SCA really hate using WD-40 on their plate armor battle equipment. They say
it works in the short term but eventually promotes rust. They say that LPS
brand oil inhibits corrosion better over time. This is supposedly what
museums use to preserve antique armor.

Just some well oiled opinions...
Walt Tampa, FL