RE: need frequency valve help (resolved)

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

Thank you all for helping me finally get my car running better.
It turns out that my cold acceleration problem was a bad Lambda relay.
Somehow the electro-magnet coil inside the relay went bad. That's strange
since it looked just fine -- no cold solder joints and no meltdowns. The
more I pushed on the coil, the higher the resistance grew. So for now until
DMC Joe sends me a new relay, I just close the contacts with a little
alligator clip when I want to drive the car. I forgot to disconnect it when
I shut off the engine (it kept buzzing away with the engine off) and it
released the fuel pressure giving me vapor lock. But that wasn't too bad.

Do any of you know if the frequency valve is supposed to always run whenever
the ignition is on, or does it decide to cycle off once in a while? It
would make sense that it should run continuously since it is the duty cycle
of the pulses that matter and not whether or not pulses are present.

Special thanks to David Teitelbaum for suggesting checking the inputs to the
ECU. After reading his suggestions, I looked through the service manual and
traced down the relay. From the service manual alone, I wouldn't have
figured it out. In it, they call the Lambda relay a 'fuel relay'. Well, my
fuel pump was working fine, so it COULDN'T have been that -- but it was. I
kept suspecting the control pressure regulator or a vacuum problem, but it
was neither.

Also thanks to Robert Rooney, Dave Stragand and Klaus from Germany. You all
also posted replies that would have led me to the right answer, but I found
the problem the day before.

Walt Tampa, FL