[DML] The Resurrection of Vixen (#5927) continues...

["Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxx>]

Dec. 20:

Okay, so I figured out the problem with the angle drive nut and my
"spinning spindle". I tightened up the spindle nut to use for leverage,
then worked the angle drive nut loose with a large (metric)
adjustable-end wrench inserted into the shaft of a bumper jack for
torque. Sounds strange, but they make excellent breaker bars. The
reason the nut would not tighten was due to a bunch of gunk in the
threads which the previous owner had not cleaned.

Now, every book on auto repair always says to clean the threads of every
nut and bolt before reinstalling. Take that seriously! Not only will
dirt affect your torque readings, but it may stop it from tightening
sufficiently at all. This time, it actually jammed the nut into place
before tightening it sufficiently.

After pulling the spindle, I cleaned the taper end, then scuffed up both
the taper and the seat lightly with 150 grit sandpaper so there would be
a bit more friction on the reinstall. I cleaned the threads carefully
(I use a circular wire brush attached to a bench grinder -- $4 at Home
Depot) and cleaned the nut threads with a toothbrush. I'd prefer to
'tap' the nut, but no one in Western Pennsylvania carries a 36mm coarse
thread tap. I'd venture to guess this would be a hard thing to find
anywhere. Then, just to make sure it would seat well, I used LockTite
242 (the blue stuff that smells like crazy glue) on the taper.

Then, I carefully threaded the angle drive cable through the spindle,
and tightened the nut. Presto, it was tight against the steering
knuckle with just finger torque. Cleaning the threads had done the
trick. 140 ft-lbs of torque later, my front suspension is done.

Now on to the rear. The last things I had to do were install the
trailing arm bolts (P.J. Grady) and mount the shock/spring combo to the
hub carrier. The problem though, was the KYB shocks have a bushing
that's just a tad too small for the 1/2" bolt that runs through them.
Luckily, I had a nice brand new 1/2" drill bit, and carefully drilled
out the bushing (about 1/16"). The bolt slid right through, the nut was
tightened, and a little bit of torque later... the rear suspension is
done.

Note on the KYB's from Marty -- WING2D@xxxx:

"On a different note, the KYB shocks you've got. I spoke with a guy at
KYB
today about this setup ( I just HAD to know the story ). He told me the

shocks you've got are some units that Fred Lockett used to get from them
back
in the 80's and then modify himself to make them fit the Delorean. Fred
used
to install the bottom rings and do some other stuff to them to make them
fit.
They are NOT something KYB ever made specifically for, or recommended
for,
the Delorean, nor are they interested in making any now. ( I tried ! but
they
weren't interested ) Sounds like you've got some collectors items there
!"

As luck would have it, I found an old catalog from Fred Lockett (He was
DeLorean Specialties of Philadelphia a few years back). It answered my
question about the non-stock coils I received with the car. It turns
out that I have the complete suspension setup that Fred used to sell...
Lowered & softer springs (2" front, 1/2" rear, manufactured by the
original equipment DeLorean spring manufacturer in England), rear sway
bar, KYB gas-adjust shocks, etc. I have two questions about this setup:

1) How does a rear sway bar affect handling? Anyone have one that
could give me some insight?
2) Does anyone know how to adjust the 'gas-adjust shocks'? I recall
that they can be tuned somehow...

Now I mentioned that the front bearings seemed a bit too small for the
spindle, and Marty helped me out again:

"The tight fit on the wheel bearings to the spindle are something I've
run
into many times. It seems the aftermarket wheel bearings ( SKF- etc )
are
about 1 thou smaller then the originals, why I don't know, but anyway.
I've
had some go right on and others hang up, like you said, to almost be a
press
fit. Use some emery cloth and work on the spindle a little until you get
the
wheel bearing to slide on. It needs to be a slip fit, not a press fit.
Make
sure to tighten the spindle/wheelbearing nut to 125 ft/lb. I know its a
lot of
torque, but it's what is required with everything designed like it is."

He was right on the money. I did as he suggested, and now they slide on
with just a bit of wiggling. Perfect.

The front brakes go on on Wednesday, and the wheels shortly thereafter.
I got the rest of the lines I needed for the frame today, so with a bit
of luck, the body will be resting on the frame, frame resting on the
wheels, wheels resting on the ground, by Thursday. The WebCam should be
up Wednesday morning, so some of you may be able to see the happy event
live. I'll post the URL on my homepage, http://www.forwardlook.net/DMC
as soon as the camera is up.

To be continued...

-Dave Stragand
dave.stragand@xxxx