[DML] Re: Dented Doors

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

You just "hit the nail on the head", so to speak. The only way to work
the dents out of Dani's and my doors is to hammer them from behind.
Unfortunately inner door skins prevent access.

Heat or cold is immaterial because the metal is creased. Impacted
objects formed it as completely as a die in a press. We'd have as much
success as trying to "pop out" the lines in our hoods.

Those creases also rule out a slide hammer (which leaves you with a
bunch of drilled holes to fill, surrounded by RAISED metal that must
then be hammered down). 

Don't forget that stainless steel is a very odd material to work with
(witness DMC's hood stamping experience. Amtrak also has great
difficulty with it at Beech Grove). I suspect most body shops know
limitations of their experience and wouldn't attempt a repair
irrespective of access.

Rob Grady's advice remains the best: either replace the door or learn
to live with the dent. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@xxxx> wrote:
> Ed, I went to a company here in Dallas that builds Stainless Steel
> restaurant equipment with a dented left front fender. He took it out
with
> patience and no heat or cold. Tapped it out with different types of
tools
> and smoothed over with a circular sander and finished it off with a hand
> rubbed 3M scotched bright.
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Garbade [mailto:edgarbade@xxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 3:12 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Bad things happen on GOOD days!
> 
> 
> 
> A while back someone wrote in about using dry ice to remove small
dings.  Is
> anyone out there that has actually done this?  I would like to know
because
> I have a couple minor dings and perhaps it could solve Dani's problem as
> well.




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