RE: [DML] electrical short

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Ken: See below

-----Original Message-----
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx [mailto:kKoncelik@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 9:58 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] electrical short


I have a few cars that have electrical problems and I am going to start to
trouble shoot them Sunday.

Neither of these cars has run in years so on the one I even dropped in a new
engine but I know from the melted fuse box it had problems,

Initial test shows the following symptoms

Fuse 7 gets hot. (fuse box melted)
I never had one do this on a car I had running so I have not looked for it
yet but it also drains the battery from somewhere and I am willing to bet
the
two are related. I have put in a new fuse box an a new Rob Grady Ground wire
in
the relays. I have yet to put power to the car.
( Most of the time the fuel pump may be getting old and it draws more
current and over a long period of time it will melt #7. Also due to the
flimsy construction and thin contacts of the fuse box it is prone to melt.
The fuse extenders and trying to bend the contacts to touch harder will
help.)


On the other car the #1 fuse blows after the car starts for about 10 secs
I am guessing that the wire that goes through the firewall may be shorting
out somewhere in the engine but again I have not honestly looked for it. Rob
helped me start the search and hopefully I can find it quickly. I will be
useing
a meter to determine current flow and the normal resistance checks.
( Ken, #1 Green wire, Besides supplying power to the Idle ECU, Vacuum
Solenoid, Ignition ECU, and RPM relay there is a lot of places to look.)

The car does start and run without blowing the fuse if I disconnect the
Computer connection behind the drivers seat.

Obviously screws up mixture but it starts and runs just fine.

I am posting this since I have not seen it before in a working car and its
probably easy to trace but this looks like a good one to share info on since
I
have 5 cars that I have redone that the #7 fuse has melted and the harness
refurb seemed to fix it although I have yet to even look for where the
problem was.
( If you put in a fuse extender before the fuse and socket melts then it
won't.)

Obviously a common problem.  I usually redo the wire harnesses totally on
the
cars before I try to start them and whatever I am doing fixes it but I am
interested in specifically locating the problem instead of doing a harness
refurb.

I figure its a loose connection or something.  When I redo a harness I
solder
it together and the problems go away. New terminals help to.

Ok here is one (actually two) for you diagnostic gurus

Ken


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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