[DML] Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment
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[DML] Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment



It will still be somewhat unstable even with the louvers removed 
because the hole for the bar in my opinion is much larger than it 
needs to be. Further, the adjuster's ability to control the free 
movement is reduced because of the lack of stability (even standing 
in the engine compartment). Without some sort of support I wouldn't 
attempt it. I've done it once and it was merely grace that we got it 
back together without a disaster. Aligning the holes for the bolts 
on the anchor was almost impossible. Even with the correct tools 
aligning the holes is a bit of an art. The D I have now had the rear 
window broken out when I bought it by someone attempting to do the 
adjustment free hand.

Harold McElraft - 3354



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Matt" <supermatty@xxxx> wrote:
> I've talked to Dave Swingle about this in the past, but I wanted 
to 
> throw it out there 1 more time just to hear more opinions before I 
> adjust my torsion bars.
> I'd like opinions on this procedure:
> 
> 1.  T-panel is removed
> 2.  Louvers are removed
> 3.  Engine & tranny are removed
> 4.  Door to be adjusted is fully open
> 5.  Attach 3/8" allen socket to 1/2" drive ratchet
> 6.  Place ratchet shaft in 4' steel pipe
> 7.  Hold tension on the bar while my friend, standing in the empty 
> engine bay, holds the allen socket in place, and removes the 13mm 
> bolts.
> 
> Does this sound OK?  I really don't understand the point of making 
> the wooden brace and having this big long horizontal assembly of 
> extensions, when it seems removing the louvers takes care of that 
> requirement.  
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Matt
> #1604




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