[DML] Re: Modified torsion bar adjustment

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I agree with everything Dave has said. It is dangerous to use a
ratchet for this work. A breaker bar is much safer. The main purpose
of the wooden support is so the rear sunshade does not have to be
removed. Making the support is no big deal but the extension can be
expensive, you have to have a long one and you don't want to cheap out
on it and have one that can't take the load. Try to use a short (6")
extension if you have one so the person taking the bolts out has room
to work and move the anchor bracket. Again, using a ratchet is
dangerous, you are counting on one small piece of metal inside to keep
the ratchet from moving. If you hit a worn tooth or the dog is not
fully engaged onto a tooth the ratchet could let go while you have
your face and hands right by the anchor bracket. Slip a piece of
rubber in between the rear hinge and the torsion bar so they cannot
rub. Place the door prop from the door sill to the bottom of the open
door, not from the floor. If the car should move the prop would come
out and the door would slam shut.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Pullling the engine to adjust the torsion bars is pretty extreme. .
. . ;-)
> 
> Since you already have most of the car apart, the way you want to do
it is
> fine. Just make sure that the allen bit is completely seated in the
torsion
> bar. Also have the door held open with a board/rod of some sort,
otherwise
> you'll be carrying all the wieght of the door (as well as the
torsion bar





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