[DML] Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

To bleed the system you really need a pressure tester. You fill the
header bottle all the way up and then pressurize the system. You don't
have to pump it all the way up to 15 psi, just enough to hold some
pressure. Now you crack the bleeder screw and loosen the small bleeder
line on the radiater. If the hose on the radiater is old and hard
don't try to force it off. Cut it with a razor blade and replace it
before you bleed. The other way is to use a vacuum extractor and pull
a vacuum on the system and let it pull the coolant in. I have done it
and although you "could" skip bleeding afterward, I do it anyway but
there is hardly any air left to get out. A small amount of air will be
expelled under normal operation from the radiator. I do not have an
auto bleeder on my car but I know the system is tight. The auto
bleeder will only mask the symptoms of a leaky system. Once the system
is bled it isn't necessary to ever do it again unless the system leaks
and you need to add coolant or you drain and flush it. BTW you should
only use a national branded permant type anti-freeze and mix it 50/50
with water. It should be changed every 2-3 years and /or checked for
acidity.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "D F" <funkstuf@xxxx> wrote:
> Regarding bleeding the air.
> My cooling fans worked very intermittently and whenever they desired.
> It took me several months of people telling me my fans weren't
kicking on 
> because of a bad ground. I should replace all my wiring, I should
buy new 
> relays, or I had a bad otterstat and every other crazy.. I had an air 
> bleeder hose already on my car.
> FINALLY, somebody suggested I bleed the air out right at the
radiator AT THE 
> RADIATOR..
> I did it, the fans have worked every time since..
> Thanks and here's to those who have fan problems.
> 
> Dale Funk
> 4984
> 
> >From: tobyp@xxxx
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [DML] Re: Removing Heater Core Supply Line
> >Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2004 20:22:09 -0000
> >
> >Bill - This is something that many owners and mechanics don't seem to
> >be aware of, and that is that the radiator *must* be bled as a
> >separate step.  The air in that end of the car will rarely find its
> >way out through the engine compartment self-bleeder.  And, as you
> >hint in your post below, doing this task is not that much fun.  There
> >was a thread some time ago about people's favorite flavors of
> >antifreeze that they enjoyed (in the face) during the radiator bleed
> >operation.  For this reason, check out part number K1017DP for the
> >radiator, which is also part of our improved self bleeder kit K1012DP
> >on the DPNW website.  Bleeding air out has never been so easy and
> >clean!
> >
> >Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> >DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> >www.delorean-parts.com
> >
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
> >wrote:
> >Never realized how prone the stock configuration was to trap air,
> >even with a vaunted self bleeder, until I helped two other owners
> >before/after Pigeon Forge refill their systems. Radiator simply would
> >not bleed unless you cracked that hose -- great fun with an OEM
> >plastic nipple.
> > >
> > > Bill Robertson
> > > #5939




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