Re: [DML] Re: Original locking module: Really that bad?

[Martin Gutkowski <martin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The "inside latch" has me confused - there are two latches, front and 
rear. They each perform two functions, lock, and latch (that is, the 
door handle). The most common problem is the two latch mechanism being 
out of sync - pull your door handle slowly and you *should* get them 
both releasing at precisely the same time - more often than not, one 
will pop before the other.

The most common cause of doors jaming is where one of the lock linkrods 
is too loose/tight causing one of the latches to stay locked while the 
other is free.

The inside lock lever connects directly to the same arm as the solenoid, 
the lock barrel, and the two latches - there should be no difference 
between using the inside lever than using the key in the lock, or the 
central locking.

For anyone who has never adjusted door linkages, it's one of the most 
useful parts of the workshop manual. Not everything is adjustable, but 
it's designed that way so you have a starting point (the front lock link 
rod). Adjust the solenoid refering to the movement of the front lock 
rod, adjust the internal lever (yes, it does adjust) to match that, and 
keep going, one at a time.

But before doing that, you should remove all the lock links and make 
sure the latch mechanism works correctly, in sync, and most importantly, 
is able to return to its "rest" state smoothly and 100%

Wow, this started out being a quick e-mail! I could write an essay here, 
but it's all in the manual!

Martin
DMUK

John Hervey wrote:
> Martin,
> Your correct, But I have found that by using the inside door lock it will
> lock up the system. The inside latch will bind and since were not in a
> perfect world and they are not cleaned and oiled they bind. ( the big word
> is ( if ), most aren't maintained.
> John
> 
> 





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