[DML] Alignment questions!

["Adam 16683" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have heard that the maximum amount of shims for the rear alignemnt 
is 5. Is there a minimum number of shims? What would the expected toe-
in be with 5 shims and without any shims? 

Also a shop near where I live that works on deloreans told me that 
bad shocks are usually a cause of rear misalignment. My shocks are 
due for replacement, but the left toe seems too excessive to be 
caused by shocks alone. 

As for the front castors being messed up I really dont understand it 
at all. Castor can be adjusted by shimming the sway bar to lower arm 
connection, but this is not a "factory" recommendation?? 

We some cars actually built at the factory with this "lopsidedness", 
or is this a result of wear and/or damage to the front suspension? 

Its also possible that the previous owner cut the front springs 
unevenly, could this cause a caster difference as well?

Thanks for answering my questions! But I have more: where do you guys 
in the northwest take your cars for alignments? Nowhere in Oregon 
seems to be able to handle it right now.

thanks!!
adam


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, tobyp@xxxx wrote:
> Adam - The first time I got Winged1 aligned (at a frame shop, not a 
> tire store), I talked to the technician at length about the effect 
> that various combinations of numbers have on the car.  You are 
> correct in being a little concerned about the caster difference 
> between left and right.  A difference of more than 1/2 degree in 
the 
> caster can cause "twitchy" steering, where the slightest movement 
of 
> the wheel results in a complete lane change.  The symptoms get 
worse 
> as the difference gets larger.  My car had an error of about 1/2 
> degree, so I considered the "twitchiness" to be "nimble steering".  
> Always the optimist!  Most people will tell you that caster is not 
> adjustable.  That is not quite true.  The caster can be changed by 
> adding shims between the front flat washer on the sway bar / lower 
> control arm connection and the forward rubber donut bushing.  This 
> pushes the side you put the shims on towards the rear.  The goal is 
> to pick the side with the smaller caster, and increase it's value 
to 
> match the other side.  (I believe that I have that right).  A good 
> frame shop may be able to estimate the proper thickness of shim to 
> achieve the desired readings.  The other option is to make your own 
> bushings with different thicknesses for the forward pieces, which 
> achieves the same end.  That's what I did - in urethane.  That toe 
> value in the rear could be giving you a little of that pull to the 
> right.  A positive toe value means that the left rear wheel is 
> actually pointed outboard (too many shims) and is trying to steer 
> the car towards the right.  Also, the values you show for the front 
> toe are positive.  Are you sure about that?  If so, your front 
> wheels are pointing outwards a bit, which makes your car indecisive 
> as to which direction it wants to go.  I assume they must be 
> actually negative.  Aren't these little silver cars cool?  I hope 
> this helps ... don't change your rack unless it gets loose and 
> sloppy.
> 
> My apologies to Jan for not clipping the quote - the values are 
> important for reviewing my response.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
> 
> 




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