[DML] Re: An oft-forgotten electrical issue (Headlight Master Switch)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The problem is even worse than full side/tail light amperage: Fuses
#14 and #15 come AFTER the switch. If something goes wrong with it
(note the ground for the internal illumination bulb...), you are
totally unprotected. Compare to the location of Fuse #6 in the hazard
light circuit. Major DMC engineering error.

I think the problem is compounded by heat from the internal
illumination bulb. The switch is made from cheap plastic to begin
with. Why barbeque it further?

I am using a hazard switch to replace my melted -- as in fire and
smoke -- headlight switch. The pushbuttons are interchangeable so the
picture remains correct. Is single action of course, but how many
people drive around with just the parking lights on anyway? Is not
plug and play either, but I was re-wiring my external light circuit at
the same time (moved side/tail lights to their own relay) so I could
use whichever spades on the back I wanted.

Total amperage through my new switch is 30 miliamps BTW.

I also removed internal illumination bulbs from both switches to
eliminate the heat problem. A/C panel illumination (ANOTHER issue in
itself!) creates rings of light around the pushbuttons so you can see
them no problem. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx> wrote:
> There isn't anything wrong with the headlight switch per se. The
> problem lies with the circuit it's intergrated into. You have 10
> incandescent lights that are recieve a power feed thru the switch, and
> no one fuse on this central source. The higher gague wire that has
> been used doesn't help any, either. To realy make the circuit safe,
> you'd need to splice in a relay, with a fused, independant powersource
> for the clearance lights.
> 
> Aside from corrosion on the switch, you really need to check/replace
> the light bulbs themselves, and their housings. My front, driver's
> side clearance light had a crack, and the rubbber gasket behind it had
> split. So for all the years that my car spent parked next to someone's
> sprinklers, water was able to leak in, and collect in the lense. And
> since the wiring harness has a sleeve on it to keep road spray away
> from the lights, the water that collected inside had no where to
> drain. Over the years of moisture, not only had rust formed, but it
> managed to bridge the positive, and ground connections inside, and
> outside of the socket. The bulb was so badly fused into place, that I
> couldn't remove it, and ended up grafting in a replacement socket from
> P.J. Grady. Had the circuit have been properly designed with at least
> a fuse in place for the main feed, my headlight switch would not have
> melted down.
> 
> I'm in the same boat, where I've no headlight switch either. I
> currently use a jumper wire to activate my lights (ghetto, I know).
> Hopefully one will turn up, but I'm not too worried. If one cannot be
> located, or the vendors fail recreate one, a little creativity will
> solve things. I'll just attach my old buttton onto the end of an old
> windsheild wiper knob, and shove a couple of LEDs behind the faceplate
> to illuminate it. So instead of pushing, I'll just turn the knob to
> turn on the lights. And if I get a 3 speed switch, I'd also be able to
> nicely intergrate a hidden switch for some foglights as well.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > Yesterday, my headlight switch slagged itself. I was given a rude 
> > awakening when I found out that it's one of the few items that are 
> > unavailable from vendors. The switch is a poor design. Here's what 
> > happened:
> <SNIP>




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