[DML] RE: Unused wires in door harness
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[DML] RE: Unused wires in door harness



As a followup to Dave's response below, close but not quite.  There is an unused wire in the doors, but the wiring diagram most of us have is incorrect.  The light green/white wire is the hot lead from fuse #9 to both the rear defogger and power mirror switches.  The way the diagram is drawn, it is unswitched and if connected to heated mirrors as shown they would be "on" all the time.

Anyway, the unused wire is actually yellow/white, and I believe it can be found near the top of the door.  The two sides are not connected together, but end at separate plugs in the access hole under the T-top.  There are no corresponding  wires leading down to the relay compartment with the rest, so to connect to them you would have to remove the T-top and sealed cover like Dave described.  Then you would have to get your new wires into the interior of the car by drilling a hole, either under the headliner (requiring its removal) or somewhere farther down.  I know this because this is one of the alternate ways of wiring my remote door opening kit, although not the preferred way. 


Darryl Tinnerstet
(formerly Specialty Automotive)
Still lurking, so watch what you say....


<<The "extra"wire is on the schematic as Light Green/White. The wire 
appears in the harness as part of the bundle that comes from the roof 
down the driver side pillar and should appear in a 9-pin connector 
somewhere in the compartment near the engine computer. I did not have 
time to open up one of the cars and see where it is. You probably 
have to remove the carpeted rear wooden panel to get to it. My guess 
is that is eventually goes across and connects to the defroster 
circuit, so you'll have to make sure you disconnect it from that 
before you re-use it.

The problem is going to be that the connection to both doors is tied 
together in the harness, in the center of the roof only accessible by 
removing the SS T-panel. So the way it is you couldn't use it.

You'll have to get into the roof from above, split the line, remove 
the interior roof panel, and then snake a second wire through the 
roof into the car (There's a feed through thats covered with black 
silicone RTV) without creating a new water leak. Sounds like a lot of 
trouble to get the mirrors to blink.>>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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