Re: [DML] Permanate addition to engine block; where to tap a new hole?

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

There are only a couple of options to remove the broken bolt AND
extractor. You can try drilling with a cobalt bit. You can remove the
part and replace it. You can remove the part and take it to a machine
shop where they can try to remove it in a milling machine (a kind of
extra-heavy duty drill press). Finally there is a process that you
weld a nut onto the broken bolt. It requires a stick welder and
special rods and a lot of experience. Do not try to relocate the hole.
If you are not capable of this level of machine work then remove the
head with the broken bolt in it and take it to a shop that rebuilds
cylinder heads. They do this kind of thing all the time. Do not try to
reassemble without this bolt, you will have a large air leak.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> Based on his description, I think he's talking about one of the 3 
> bolts that hold the air cleaner on. Change "intake manifold" to "air 
> cleaner" and it makes more sense. 
> 
> jmlaux (whatever your name really is) is that what you mean? Is this 
> broken bolt on top of the manifold runner or into the head itself? 
> What were you taking apart when this broke? 
> 
> Dave S
> 
> -
> 
> -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> 
> wrote:
> > The intake manifold actually screws into the cylinder head, not the 
> > block, so you could in theory replace the head. This is why you 
> must 
> > never trust screw extractors! You may get it out with a dremmel, 
> and 
> > then tapping and inserting a helicoil is the best long-term 
> solution. 
> > When drilling these out, use the long bolt that goes into the air 
> intake 
> > just above the water pump thermostat housing, inserted into the 
> other 
> > intake manifold mount on the same head. This gives you a really 
> useful 
> > reference for holding the drill strait
> > 





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