[DML] Digest Number 1680
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[DML] Digest Number 1680



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1680

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Weird idle fluctuations after startup
           From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
      3. Re: idea for the group
           From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
      4. Re: idea for the group
           From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Aligning rear quarter panels to rear fascia...
           From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: John Delorean
           From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
      8. Re: keeping the dmc from overheating
           From: "Dale Schaub" <DaleSchaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: idea for the group
           From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. New Delorean Product
           From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: idea for the group idle stuff
           From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
     12. Looking for a Delorean
           From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Regulators and lock selenoids
           From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. Message for "fenris(at)delorean.co.uk"
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     15. Re: keeping the dmc from overheating
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: D. O.A. Election
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     17. PRV6  was PRV8!
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     18. Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     19. Re: Tires
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     20. Re: Re: D.O.A. Election
           From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     21. RE: Regulators and lock selenoids
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     22. Starting and low idle
           From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
     23. Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs
           From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
     24. Re: PRV6  was PRV8!
           From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     25. Re: New site for DART
           From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:11:29 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone ever cross-threaded their spark plugs?  What did you do
to
> remedy the situation?

3 out of 6 plugs on my car are cross-threaded. I discovered this
unpleasant surprise the first time I did a tune up. I never bothered
to fix it, just screwed the plugs in tighter. Compression test on the
motor is fine, according to my local garage (somewhere in the 130 or
so PSI range I think). Since the motor runs fine, and I eventually
plan on modifying/swapping the motor, it's never been more than a
simple pet peeve to me.

If you do want to replace the entire head however, there are two
solutions:

1) Tap the heads to the next thread size up. You'll then need to buy
spark plugs to compensate, but this should fix it (I know of no one
who's ever done this, but I was a reccomendation that I recieved).

2) There is a kit available wich will let you drill, and then sleeve
the wells to allow you to keep the same size spark plug (I know I saw
this on the net, but cannot for the life of me remember where, but I
remember that there are 2 seperate sizes). It was something like $12-
$15 per plug.

Check eBay. From time to time, they have the B288F heads pop up from
Volvos that appear in their auctions. Otherwise, there may be some
other D owners that can sell you a set of heads. And while you get
ready to replace them, get 'em polished at the local speed shot, and
install some new timing chains.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 2
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:58:55 -0000
   From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Weird idle fluctuations after startup

The idle speed motor may be stuck or sticking in a near closed
position. Have you check it for proper function?

Harold McElraft - 3354


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jonathan Lazar" <jxace@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Group!
>
>
>
> I have had this weird idle problem since as long as I've owned
this car
> (about 4 years).  When the car is started, whether it is already
warm or ice
> cold, the rpms fluctuate between 700 and 1200.  It will do this
until I
> feather the gas pedal to even it out.  After that, it sits at a
perfect 750
> rpm idle.  Also, once the car is on the road, the idle is fine. 
It just
> acts up whenever it is started up.  Does anybody know of any tests
to see
> which part of the fuel system is acting up?
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
> Jonathan Lazar
>
> VIN# 4494




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Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:23:55 EDT
   From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: idea for the group

i second the motion...what we really need is DMC mechanic in an email :-)

Mike
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 01:49:25 -0000
   From: "aaron_t_graham" <aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idea for the group

> check and replace bad vacuum hoses, verify correct routing, etc.

I think this is the most important and probably the source of more
minor problems than anything else on the car.

We need a really well-detailed diagram (perhaps with photos) of the
entire vacuum hose system, along with descriptions of parts that are
connected to it, and explanations of which hoses perform which tasks.

Having a resource like this available to the DMC owner public could
really help a lot.

Aaron
#1506






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Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:02:10 -0500
   From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Aligning rear quarter panels to rear fascia...

Matt,

When restoring the Delorean Time Machine we removed the rear fascia.  We
also adjusted the rear quarter panels to better fit the fascia. 

The problem is the rear fascia has to be removed to get to these bolts.
 Then you have to put it back on to see if it fits right.  May take a
number of times to get is right.

BOB




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Message: 6
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 04:46:31 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs

Are helicoil type inserts with spark plug thread patterns. Most parts
houses should have them. You'll find tapping aluminum very easy. Be
sure to vacuum all metal shavings out of cylinder before turning
engine. I'd recommend gluing helicoil in for 24 hours before threading
a new plug (old fashioned gasket adhesive -- the stuff in a can with
brush in lid -- dries like super glue. Made mistake of using to hold
upside down GM starter bolts once. Had to drill them out).

To avoid cross threading in future, never turn spark plug with socket
wrench until it is well threaded by hand (use extension like a nut
driver). Never force the plug. If it doesn't find threads in head,
lift up and gently try again.

PRV intake rails can make threading difficult. Use other hand to guide
extension closer to well.

I've found plug #6 easiest to install by not locking socket onto
extension. Just rest in square drive recess and it'll move like a
wobble extension.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone ever cross-threaded their spark plugs?  What did you do to
> remedy the situation?




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Message: 7
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 03:09:51 EDT
   From: ROBLAMROCK@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: John Delorean

Tom,
Try writing to him and ask him yourself.

In a message dated 25/09/2003 00:32:24 GMT Daylight Time, tjb229@xxxxxxx
writes:

> Does anyone know if Mr. Delorean gives talks at major universities? 
> Does anyone know how to go about contacting him about this?
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 23:09:44 -0700
   From: "Dale Schaub" <DaleSchaub@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: keeping the dmc from overheating

Dan,

I live in Arizona. We have the best summer weather to check out our
radiators and cooling systems. After I bought my car twelve years ago, I
replaced all the cooling hoses, the radiator, the overflow bottle and
connected the cooling system air bleeder to the hoses in front of the
overflow bottle. I have never had a problem with overheating in the last
twelve years in Arizona, in 114 degrees weather. I run our Delorean year
round in Arizona. On a typical summer day in the summer the temperature gets
to 114 degrees and higher. The Delorean is no different than another car
when it comes to the cooling system. Take care of the cooling system and the
car will cool itself, but you must have the car back to it's original
intended purpose for this to work--except of course for the cooling overflow
bottle and radiator. Please replace your overflow bottle and radiator--the
originals are not as good as the replacements that are available from our
suppliers. Someone else will have to help Dan and the other owners on how to
get their cars back to their original intend purposes. That is another
reason to join your local Delorean Chapter.

The cars are very good at cooling--their automatic transmissions are very
good at shifting--the problem is with the owners and the previous owners.
There is enough information on the webs for us to fix our cars for their
intended purpose. Take out the toggle switches and the "Y" connections and
replace them with the FanZilla and finally fix the automatic transmissions.

Twelve years ago I replaced my alternator, the overflow bottle, replaced all
the cooling hoses, replaced the radiator and replaced the "Y" connection
with the fanZilla--three years ago I fixed my automatic governor as
recommend by this list. I have been running the car for twelve years with no
mechanical problems. Yes, this winter I will be replacing my cooling hoses
again--I do not recommend running a car for twelve year on old hoses, and
yes,. my dash will be my next project, but my car mechanical runs like it's
in heaven.

Welcome to the Delorean list and to the Delorean globe. Sorry for the long
story.

Please check out the Delorean list, check with your local chapter and fix
the problem right the first time, but continue asking your questions to the
delorean list. We can only learn by our questions.

Dale

> the previous owner of my dmc hooked up a toggle switch to keep the
> fans running to prevent an overheat. I am not crazy about this type
> of engineering as i would like to fix the problem. I know that other
> owners have wired similar switches to prevent overheats as well but,
> as i am new to deloreans.....




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Message: 9
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:43:33 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Andrew Prentis <aprentis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idea for the group

Andy,
That is a good idea,but in the mean time I suggest you
check out the excellent article David Teitelbaum wrote
in the last issue of DeLorean Car Show magazine.It
deals directly with what you are talking about and
that is setting up the car to idle and run correctly.

Andrew
VIN 2883
Sydney,Australia.

> wouldn't it be cool if the if the more knowledgable
> members of the DML could kind
> of form a roundtable and come up with an addition to
> dmcnews.com which would
> be kind of a tutorial on how to properly set up your
> car?


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
http://shopping.yahoo.com



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Message: 10
   Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 23:43:43 -0400
   From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Delorean Product

If anyone's interested, I've posted a New Delorean Product that may interest you guys (and ladies) on ebay along with a Driver's side torsion bar that I yanked from my parts vehicle and a hood from an 82. You can view them at the following three links:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2192933004&category=418&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item=2433563117

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item=2433564723

I would appreciate any feedback you may have regarding the new product...Thanks!
Rustproof
Vin #1559


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 11
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:48:08 -0700 (PDT)
   From: jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idea for the group idle stuff

Hello,

Talking just within the realms of vacume leaks, im
slowly compiling my information on repairs that bring
the added benefit of closing up some of those leaks.
I dare say , as some people know, the techniques for
finding some leaks are unconventional and perhaps
dangerous.

The PRV has the potential to leak from pretty much
everywhere, however, ive found 99% draws air from
components on the top end. I figure i should have most
of it done by december.  When the new valve covers are
finished and ready to go on it will give me the
opportunity to address my last vaccume problem i could
find. (the pipe going into the idle speed motor from
under the venturi) which right now I have rigged
temporarily not to leak)

All things being fair, ive come to the following
conclusion. (as all seals and gaskets on my car were
original)

after 22 years:

1 seals made by rubber O rings were not air tight at 
 all:
2 seals made by paper gaskets did have evidence of
slight leakage.
3 hoses for routing vaccume hold to the eye, but can
still be leaking
4 components that these hoses go to, could leak from
the components themselves.

more to come,

jordan 11613 (almost perfect idle)
 



--- Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
> List,
>
> I was thinking today about all the people who have
> problems getting their car
> to idle correctly, running rich, running lean, even
> getting it to start. 
> wouldn't it be cool if the if the more knowledgable
> members of the DML could kind
> of form a roundtable and come up with an addition to
> dmcnews.com which would
> be kind of a tutorial on how to properly set up your
> car?
>
> for instance, it would begin with giving your engine
> a thorough tune up with
> new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, lambda sensor, etc.
> then it would tell you check
> and replace bad vacuum hoses, verify correct
> routing, etc.  then it would
> probably come time to jump the RPM and check for
> proper fuel pressures.  know
> what i mean?  each step of the way would be in a
> logical order for
> troubleshooting your car and making sure that
> everything is running right.  that way when
> myself and others have problems with too much
> seeking, running too lean or rich,
> etc, we could refer to this document rather than ask
> the same types of
> questions over and over again. 
>
> other things that would have to be included would be
> properly setting up
> throttle linkage, how to test the microswitches and
> other electrical fuel parts,
> what timing should be at different engine
> temperatures and under what
> conditions, etc.
>
> Maybe someone out there who has time could draw one
> up and then forward it to
> another member who can make additions or corrects,
> and keep passing it on
> until it is complete.
>
> good idea?
> Andy



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Message: 12
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:18:05 -0000
   From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for a Delorean

I am looking for a Delorean, mechanically and structurally sound
that is painted.
If anyone know of one please contact me at techno-
concepts@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Thanks,

Ken #2700






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Message: 13
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 13:17:32 -0000
   From: "geek123y" <ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Regulators and lock selenoids

GREAT NEWS!

Just wanted to let everyone know about a place I found that sells
Delorean replacement regulator assemblies
A Bargain at $299.95 per PAIR!
Also they sell lock solenoids.

A-1 Electric Online
(888) 838-0506

http://www.a1electric.com/catalog.htm

http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_delorean.htm

Ken #2700





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Message: 14
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 14:40:39 +0100
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Message for "fenris(at)delorean.co.uk"

Someone has set their e-mail wrongly when signing up to Yahoo to post to
both DML and DMCforum. The offending address is
"fenris(at)delorean.co.uk" Could you please change it? Not only is it
wrong (anything "at" delorean.co.uk comes to me - I own the domain) but
I've had about 200 bounce messages this morning alone from viruses
you've been sending out.

Thanks

Martin
DMUK
www.delorean.co.uk






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Message: 15
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 14:30:52 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: keeping the dmc from overheating

When a Delorean is modified from stock it is very difficult to advise
on how to fix. The best advice is to get the manuals and try to return
it to stock. You could also have other problems that are causing the
overheat like leaks, air, bad head gaskets, etc. I also recomend
uprating the circuit breaker and getting a Fanzilla. When running the
A/C you override the otterstadt switch so the fans cycle with the
compressor. Join the local Delorean club and tap into their expertise.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxx> wrote:
> the previous owner of my dmc hooked up a toggle switch to keep the
> fans running to prevent an overheat. I am not crazy about this type
> of engineering as i would like to fix the problem. I know that other
> owners have wired similar switches to prevent overheats as well but,
> as i am new to deloreans, what should i look for in terms of running
> this toggle switch correctly? quick example, I had the switch on, and
> the car started overheating about 10 minutes later. Any advice? Does
> running the AC potenially cut the fan power? The previous owner sid
> that it was a direct hook up to the battery. Let me know what you
> think, Dan




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Message: 16
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 14:44:47 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: D. O.A. Election

It seems that the response from the DOA by Hank wasn't enough. I got a
very nasty e-mail from "fat boy". It seems if you criticize the DOA or
question anything their response is to blame the "messenger". From the
lack of public posts and the flood of private posts I can only assume
that there are many who do not agree with the DOA but are not able to
comment publicly on it. Too bad. If more people made their comments
known then maybe there would be some changes. This farce of an
"election" should make it clear to all how that organization runs and
what they do to anyone who disagrees with them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757







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Message: 17
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:20:21 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: PRV6  was PRV8!

Last night I was at a cruise night with the Delorean. A person stood
staring at the motor. I asked him what he was looking at in
particular. He said he used to work for Volvo. He did a lot of work on
the PRV with the French. He said origionally the PRV was designed to
be a V8. The French thought that the timing was wrong (the energy
crisis) so they cut off two of the cylinders and made it into a V6. He
said this is why it is a crossfire. He claimed to have seen the
tooling for the V8. He seemed very knowledgable so I have no reason to
doubt him. Just imagine what the Delorean would be like if we could
squeeze a V8 into it! BTW he also commented that it was always
difficult working with the French. This confirms the impressions that
we got when we had Fred Dellis of Legend Industries give a talk on his
work on the PRV with the turbos and the French. He told us that JZD
had decided to change the engine eventually to get away from the PRV
mainly because of the difficulty in dealing with the French.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757  




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Message: 18
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 14:37:21 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs

There are 2 choices. The first requires you to remove the head and
take it to a machine shop and have it welded and retapped. The other
choice is to go to an auto parts store and get a special thread insert
for just exactly this use. They come in a kit with a drill, the
insert, a tap, and a tool to install the insert. Take a spark plug
with you so they give you the right kit. You have to be careful when
threading steel things into aluminum, the aluminum is soft so if you
cross it it is the aluminum that gets ruined. If things don't go easy,
stop and try again. Forcing things with aluminum is not the way to go!
BTW you must be very accurate when drilling for the insert. If you do
it crooked the insert will be crooked and so will the the spark plug.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone ever cross-threaded their spark plugs?  What did you do to
> remedy the situation?




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Message: 19
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 15:03:15 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tires

The other night there was a piece on ABC World News Tonight about
tires and age. It seems that even a tire 10 years old could be
considered unsafe. For more go to
    http://abcnews.go.com/sections/wnt/us/oldtires030924.html
I guess I am glad now I finally got my NCT's off!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "B Benson" <delornut@xxxx> wrote:
> Tires seem to always be a popular subject on the list. There's a web
site
> that, while it is a commercial site for selling tires, has a wealth
of information about
> wheels and tires. There's even a caculator that will compare
dimensional specifics between varous tire sizes.
>
> www.1010tires.com
>
> Bruce Benson




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Message: 20
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:35:50 -0400
   From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: D.O.A. Election

Actually, David, the DOA didn't invent its election procedure.  The same sort of ballot
system really is used by corporations and private clubs all over the world.  It is very
common.  I assume there is a name for this type of election, but I don't know what it is.

- Mike Substelny




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Message: 21
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:36:03 -0400
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Regulators and lock selenoids

If anyone is interested, I only need a driver's side regulator. If you need
a passenger side only, maybe we can go in together.

Email me off list if you're interested.

tgoodwin@[YOURPANTS]vantagep.com

Take off [YOURPANTS] before you emailing me.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: geek123y [mailto:ken@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2003 9:18 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Regulators and lock selenoids
>
> GREAT NEWS!
>
> Just wanted to let everyone know about a place I found that sells
> Delorean replacement regulator assemblies
> A Bargain at $299.95 per PAIR!
> Also they sell lock solenoids.
>
> A-1 Electric Online
> (888) 838-0506
>
> http://www.a1electric.com/catalog.htm
>
> http://www.a1electric.com/catalog/cat_delorean.htm
>
> Ken #2700
>
>



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Message: 22
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:57:09 EDT
   From: Swoyerzone@xxxxxxx
Subject: Starting and low idle

Ok I just got my car back from the shop and had a new idle ECU put in and
motor,
before this I have had a new fuel pump, water pump, accumulator, tune-up kit,
etc., done to the car,
I attend a college about 20 mins from my house, the drive is pretty straight
little traffic jams. I parked the car (not the first time this has happened)
to my class which is about 1hr 30min long. I came back out turned the key and
the car struggled. it wouldn't turn, so I tried again, the same thing. I tapped
the gas peddle and the car slowly came to life, but its idle was around 10
and didn't want to go higher until I hit the gas then everything was normal. I
stopped at a gas station shut the car off and I let it sit for about 5min came
back out and it was fine, it came right to life. The only thing I notice is
that usually (not all the time) the cooling fans are on as I shut the car off,
when the starting things happends.
Please help!!!

Darryl
5898


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 23
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:33:12 -0500
   From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cross Threaded Spark Plugs

One of my plugs was cross-threaded in my cylinder head when i bought the car.

What i did was carfully hold the spark plug the way it is supposed to screw in and
screwed it in slowly back to the original threads, i did this several times. after i was
done i used a vacuum to clean any shavings out of the cylinder (it was easy since i had
the complet intake assemby off for a waterpump change) and then applied never seize to
the park plug threads.

Mark



anaheim_21 wrote:

> Has anyone ever cross-threaded their spark plugs?  What did you do to
> remedy the situation?



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Message: 24
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Louie Golden <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PRV6  was PRV8!

Interesting story... I've always wished there were a way to make a v8 work in our cars. Regarding the French being difficult, in a documentary I have JZD is talking about the issues of difficulty with the PRV. I believe it was Dick Brown who brought up the issue in a meeting that Volvo was charging them fees for using the PRV, even though DMC's contract was with Renault. JZD mentioned that this was "assinine" (one of his very favorite words), and that if this continued they would switch engine sources to Alfa Romeo or someone else in 2-3 years. So it sounds to me like it wasn't the French jerking them around, but the Swedes instead :-).

Louie Golden
VIN Coming Again Soon... :-)


--- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Last night I was at a cruise night with the Delorean. A person stood
staring at the motor. I asked him what he was looking at in
particular. He said he used to work for Volvo. He did a lot of work on
the PRV with the French. He said origionally the PRV was designed to
be a V8. The French thought that the timing was wrong (the energy
crisis) so they cut off two of the cylinders and made it into a V6. He
said this is why it is a crossfire. He claimed to have seen the
tooling for the V8. He seemed very knowledgable so I have no reason to
doubt him. Just imagine what the Delorean would be like if we could
squeeze a V8 into it! BTW he also commented that it was always
difficult working with the French. This confirms the impressions that
we got when we had Fred Dellis of Legend Industries give a talk on his
work on the PRV with the turbos and the French. He told us that JZD
had decided to change the engine eventually to get away from the PRV
mainly because of the difficulty in dealing with the French.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

_____________________________________________________________
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Message: 25
   Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:56:00 -0500
   From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: New site for DART

When will this new web site be working? i just tried it today with no luck.

Mark
6683

Ryan wrote:

> Hey all!
>
> Just wanted to let you know that I'm moving to a new domain name for
> DART.  The new site will be www.deloreanautomotive.com, and the old
> site is no longer working.  You may continue to contact me at
> rcrg_13@xxxxxxxxxxx for any questions or orders for the INDIGLO Dash
> Kits.
>
> Ryan Gould
>
> DeLorean Automotive Racing Technology
>




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