To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. DeLorean models and car performance
From: <fenris@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Pigeon Forge Convoy
From: "Scott Cagle" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
3. Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: door vapor barriers...necessary?
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Who are/were Olson Engineering?
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. window problem
From: "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: "Rustproof" DeLorean
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
9. Re: EBay Fraud
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: DeLorean Question
From: lhemb@xxxxxxx
11. need some help in Boston
From: "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Delorean Question
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: door vapor barriers...necessary?
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: door vapor barriers...necessary?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: window problem
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: "Rustproof" DeLorean
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Starting is such sweet sorrow
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Starting is such sweet sorrow
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Cooling fans and the ignition
From: Joe Angell <jangell@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: modified sunstar models
From: "Jeff" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx>
24. DeLorean will not start
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
25. best way to flush cooling system?
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 14:23:41 +0300
From: <fenris@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean models and car performance
In one of the posts I caught the sentence about the pros of a DeLorean and it said (don't remember who wrote it)
"DeLoredan has a stainless steel body and if you get the SS model, frame tooo"
Did I interpret that sentence wrong or did >I read it wrong, ain't every DeLorean built with fiberglass frame ? Or do you have to buy a different model to get all the works ?
On another note, I always seem to go back to the same subject: Performance. Some owners preferf to cherish their cars and drive slow and carefully to minimize wear & tear, I'm not that. I do want some performance on a car, it doesn't have to be as much as my current 240 hp Trans Am, but still. If I'd buy a DeLorean, and I recently went to look one (yes, there is one in Finland, brought to this country somewhere around this spring, and as far as I know, it is the only one in this country)I'd definitely install a Turbo to get more performance from it (the engine revved up quite lazy, like Volvo's usually do).
Does anyone else share my vision about better performance? If you do, then you can answer the following..
As the motor lies above back tires, doesn't it make easier to "burn rubber"? And when the tires spin freely on asphalt with no traction it usually slides somewhat to the side, but when the heavy rear of a DeLorean does so with all its mass, will you lose control and the rear would just spin at will? (same would happen if you'd do a handbrake-turn on slippery surface (like snow) I think).
/JD
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 10:36:00 -0500 (Central Daylight Time)
From: "Scott Cagle" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Pigeon Forge Convoy
Answering in from the Gulf Coast;
So far, there have been 3 of us together forming a group. Anyone in Fla, Ga
Al, or MS is welcome!
Scott
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 10:35:45 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
Martin,
You bring up a interesting question about side windows breaking.
Actually, accident statistics show that people would be better off if
side windows were also safety glass just like in windshield. This is
because it help keep passengers inside of cars so they are not ejected
and suffer even greater injury.
The only car manufactured with plastic laminated safety glass in the
side windows was the Edsel. This was because Ford was the first car
company to try and put some safety features into cars. In 56 Fords they
put in seat belts, padded dash and other safety features. The started
advertising the "safety" package.
Unfortunately, the ignorant public wrote to Ford and said "Your cars
must be unsafe if you need to sell this safety package, so I am not
going to buy a Ford." Needless to say, Ford killed the package, in its
Ford line but included all the features in the Edsel. Since it was
standard equipment the public never knew.
Jack Martins, the safety engineer who consulted for Delorean (now
deceased from a brain aneurysm) also was concerned about the question of
passenger ejection from the Delorean. He felt that small size window
actually reinforced the side glass and made it more difficult for a
passenger to be ejected. However, this also raised an insure of the
ability to get out of the car if it flipped over. One could not open the
door in this case.
The metal frame from the small window is quite strong and makes window
opening much smaller.
Being a safety engineer, I also pondered this dilemma. First, all race
cars have lexan windshield for safety reasons. Second, Lexan is coated
with a silicone layer that hardness the surface and makes it scratch
resistant. This is opposed to common poly carbonate which is not
coated. Third, the size full plastic window is designed where one can
pop out the plastic window with less force than it takes to break the
glass window,
Bob
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 12:35:00 -0400
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
I would like to thank everyone again for all their help. Here's what
happened...I re-adjusted the CO to 14.5:1. Cleaned the entire throttle
assembly. Rechecked for vacuum leaks. Replaced all the injector seals.
Checked the lambda system and idle system for proper operation and both are
working within specification. Timing is perfect. Replaced O2 sensor just for
fun. After all this, the idle is very stable once the car warms up.
Performance has greatly improved. (once warmed to operating temperature
everything runs like a new car) But...when she's cold she sputters, idles
poorly near 600 rpms rumbling like a Harley and shaking like my grandmother.
She stalls if you attempt to depress the accelerator. After about 5 minutes
of warm-up, you would think it was a different vehicle. Smooth a silk. Could
this be related to the warm-up regulator? Cold start valve? She does start
just by simply turning the key. No need to give it 1/4 pedal. She always
starts warm or cold. I't just a little annoying having to sit there for 5
minutes before you can move. Any suggestions?
Rustproof
vin#1559
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:37 PM
Subject: [DML] Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
> It sounds to me like your Lambda system just died. Troubleshoot to
> find the reason (very common for the relay to die). Since the Lambda
> wasn't adding fuel you compensated by going overly rich with the
> mixture screw. You should hear the frequency valve buzz whenever the
> engine is running. You are almost there, get the Lambda running again
> and it sounds to me like you have it just about right! (Of course
> readjust the mixture screw with the Lambda running).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> > Having taken all the advice I could get from the list and the
> archives, I
> > have attempted to set up both the CO mixture as well as the CIS
> idle. This
> > was fiddled with by the previous owner and never properly reset. I
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 10:53:23 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: door vapor barriers...necessary?
I use Duct tape.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: supermattthehero [mailto:supermatty@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 10:20 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] door vapor barriers...necessary?
Hi there,
In the midst of a day-project adjusting my door latches and locks, I removed
the plastic vapor barriers from both doors. Now it's time to put the door
back together and it seems as though the sticky stuff that was holding it on
is no longer sticky. How necessary are these things? I don't plan on ever
driving my car in the rain, and my door trim panels are all backed with
plastic (not cardboard like some cars which I understand could warp from
moisture).
So how necessary are they, and if they are necessary, what is the sticky
stuff called that I would need?
thanks,
Matt
#1604
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 17:30:05 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Who are/were Olson Engineering?
Mine was once registered to "Precision Testing Laboratories". I
wonder what all this means?
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "jchapelhow" <chapelhow@xxxx> wrote:
> All.
>
> I have seen on the VIN list that my car, 0737, is one of several
> listed as an 'engineering car', assigned to 'Olson Engineering'.
>
> Can anyone tell me what work they did for DeLorean and whether they
> are still going. Previous searches of the DMCNEWS articles/history
> don't seem to give any more details.
>
> On a personal note if anyone in the US has knowledge of my car on
> that side of the Atlantic I would be interested to hear from them.
>
>
> John Chapelhow
> MMG 287W : 00737
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 17:14:22 -0000
From: "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: window problem
my driver's side window will go down, but not up, Any way to get this
window up just for now? Let me know, thanks, Dan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 13:26:21 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Rustproof" DeLorean
Ya, Bill's right... Though I've taken/cut out more rusty bolts than most
people, and changed them to stainless. When I said rustproof, I meant
the body (obviously). I've had to do significant bodywork on my Japanese
car, and at the time it wasn't even 10 years old.
About the wires, I would not call them small gauge. It's like 16/18 I
think with a healthy-sided insulator on it. I work on a lot of mazdas
and the wires in them are like 22 gauge, if that. The insulated wire is
a third the size of the insulated Delorean wire.
Jim
1537
On Sat, 06 Sep 2003 03:47:41 -0000 "content22207"
<brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
> While the pontoon is indeed rustproof (might crack however...), much
> of the car is carbon steel subject to deterioration:
> - All fasteners
> - Frame is welded sheet steel, not cast. Crumple tube especially
> vulnerable
> - Brake & suspension components
> - Fuel system can rust from inside out (tank itself is plastic)
>
> Note also wiring subject to environment. Ground points especially
> critical because body non-conductive. Wiring harness is small gauge
> to
> begin with, so I'd watch airborne salt found at coasts.
>
> DeLorean is well executed car, steeped in history, uncommon but not
> rare (costs within most people's reach), and extremely popular among
> general public. Is far from perfect, but I recommend ownership.
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 13:32:54 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: EBay Fraud
Normally your credit card will cancel payment with a good reason. They
will try to contact the "offender" though. In Paypal, you can "buy"
insurance for what you are buying. If you are too cheap (or confident)
to get the insurance, you only have yourself to blame. 3rd, if you go
through EBAY's expensive and annoying insurance program, you can regain
you loss minus $25, but only up to $100 or $200. I forget what the exact
number is.
why do I know all this? hmmm
Jim
1537
On Sat, 6 Sep 2003 09:01:48 EDT doctorDHD@xxxxxxx writes:
> I was just wondering if you buy something on eBay and pay with a
> credit card
> either directly or through Pay Pal, can't you get your money back if
> you don't
> receive the item?
>
> Dave & 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
> address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 13:41:06 EDT
From: lhemb@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Question
Why own and drive a DeLorean over a Viper or NSX? The answer is exclusivity
and the fact that the DeLorean is an automotive icon. The DeLorean is unique
in automotive history. It is the only production automobile ever made with a
stainless steel body, and one of only two with gull wing doors. At this point in
time the DeLorean is moving into the antique/classic/collectible realm.
Everywhere that you go in a DeLorean you attract attention at the level of a
celebrity. It is sometimes difficult to get your ice cream home in a solid state
because of "giving interviews" in the super market parking lot.
I have had Harvey (VIN 5830) for fourteen years now. I will admit that it has
been at times a love/hate relationship, but he is a member of the family and
I could never bear to let him go. Like many DeLorean cult members, I have
spent more on fixing Harvey than he is worth in dollars. Sometimes value cannot be
measured in dollars and cents.
If you seek high performance, don't come here. If you seek a long term
relationship with a special automobile, the DeLorean cult has a place for you.
Brian McCabe & Harvey, 5830
Santa Rosa Beach, Florida
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 17:13:14 -0000
From: "dsstriker" <dsstriker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: need some help in Boston
Any dmc owners/ mechanics in Boston? I just bought one and could use
some help. Let me know, Dan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 15:38:33 -0400
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Delorean Question
I think it boils down to 2 things.
1. Price. Which can you afford? Delorean is considerable cheeper then
the other two (also insurance!)
2. Which one do YOU like the best? It's your car. Choose the one that
you think you will enjoy driving and showing off the most.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan McNasby [mailto:dan_mcnasby@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2003 7:55 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Delorean Question
I am very interested in buying a Delorean but would like to know what
are the relative merits of the DeLorean over the Following Cars
(basically, why buy the delorean over the following) are:
1. 1994 Dodge Viper RT/10
2. 1995 Acura NSX
Why is the DeLorean better to own than the above cars?
Thanks for the input!
Dan
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:35:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door vapor barriers...necessary?
Replace the vapor barriers (plastic). It does several things. It helps
to cut down the air from coming in through the trim into the passenger
compartment. Ditto for noise. And of course it protects the inside of
the trim from water. Even though you plan on never getting caught in
the rain you may someday want to wash the car or if you sell the car
the next owner will thank you.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx>
wrote:
> I use Duct tape.
>
> Scott Mueller
> 002981
> RNDOLA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:12:40 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door vapor barriers...necessary?
You could kill two birds with one stone and invest in some Dynamat sound
insulation. It comes in large self adhesive sheets You can buy it on
ebay for peanuts compared to retail
I think the original adhesive was a hot glue gun.
Martin
>Hi there,
>
>In the midst of a day-project adjusting my door latches and locks, I removed
>the plastic vapor barriers from both doors. Now it's time to put the door
>back together and it seems as though the sticky stuff that was holding it on
>is no longer sticky. How necessary are these things? I don't plan on ever
>driving my car in the rain, and my door trim panels are all backed with
>plastic (not cardboard like some cars which I understand could warp from
>moisture).
>
>So how necessary are they, and if they are necessary, what is the sticky
>stuff called that I would need?
>
>thanks,
>
>Matt
>#1604
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:10:38 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Change Windows In A DeLorean?
Really interesting, Bob. One thing I have learnt though is that
scratch-resistant polycarb tends to be less strong and can actually
shatter in extreme impacts leaving very sharp edges. The same phenomenon
happens when standard polycarb is subjected to UV for along periods (ie
left outside). It's all a compromise with polycarb at the end of the
day, and you have to live with the fact that anyone with an acrylic
spray can will be able to break in within half an hour as polycarb
softens with the applications of some solvents.
My knowledge of PC is based on my experiences in Robot Wars/ Battlebots
where it's very popular armour. Lexan is just a brand name for
polycarbonate - Makrolon and Tuffak are others, all of which available
in a collection of grades.
It's amusing to give someone a beautifully clear offcut of polycarb and
a huge hammer and challenge them to break it. I've won drinks before
betting this!
So, all this poses the question: what DO we do in our DeLoreans to get
out in the event of a roll? The side windows are glued to the inside
edge of the door frame, and the windscreen is well bonded, and screwed
down. Even I'm not thin enough to get out the tollbooth window :-)
Martin
Bob Brandys wrote:
>
>Being a safety engineer, I also pondered this dilemma. First, all race
>cars have lexan windshield for safety reasons. Second, Lexan is coated
>with a silicone layer that hardness the surface and makes it scratch
>resistant. This is opposed to common poly carbonate which is not
>coated. Third, the size full plastic window is designed where one can
>pop out the plastic window with less force than it takes to break the
>glass window,
>
>Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:40:42 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
If it is running as good as you say it is when it is warmed up then
you have to look at the systems that are active when the motor is
cold. Follow all the vacuum hoses that go to the temperature sensitive
valves. Make sure they are correctly attached and they are not plugged
up, pinched, or cracked or have any holes worn in them. If that won't
help then you will have to test each valve to see if it works and
doesn't leak. If it only is running about 600 RPM's when cold check
the thermistor circuit to the idle ECU. When the motor is cold it is
supposed to tell the idle ECU to run the motor a little faster.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> I would like to thank everyone again for all their help. Here's what
> happened...I re-adjusted the CO to 14.5:1. Cleaned the entire throttle
> assembly. Rechecked for vacuum leaks. Replaced all the injector seals.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 20:48:55 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
Very much sounds like the warm up regulator to me.
Looks like you'll be replacing everything eventually, just like me.
Rich
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> I would like to thank everyone again for all their help. Here's what
> happened...I re-adjusted the CO to 14.5:1. Cleaned the entire
throttle
> assembly. Rechecked for vacuum leaks. Replaced all the injector
seals.
> Checked the lambda system and idle system for proper operation and
both are
> working within specification. Timing is perfect. Replaced O2 sensor
just for
> fun. After all this, the idle is very stable once the car warms up.
> Performance has greatly improved. (once warmed to operating
temperature
> everything runs like a new car) But...when she's cold she sputters,
idles
> poorly near 600 rpms rumbling like a Harley and shaking like my
grandmother.
> She stalls if you attempt to depress the accelerator. After about 5
minutes
> of warm-up, you would think it was a different vehicle. Smooth a
silk. Could
> this be related to the warm-up regulator? Cold start valve? She
does start
> just by simply turning the key. No need to give it 1/4 pedal. She
always
> starts warm or cold. I't just a little annoying having to sit there
for 5
> minutes before you can move. Any suggestions?
> Rustproof
> vin#1559
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2003 6:37 PM
> Subject: [DML] Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)
>
>
> > It sounds to me like your Lambda system just died. Troubleshoot to
> > find the reason (very common for the relay to die). Since the
Lambda
> > wasn't adding fuel you compensated by going overly rich with the
> > mixture screw. You should hear the frequency valve buzz whenever
the
> > engine is running. You are almost there, get the Lambda running
again
> > and it sounds to me like you have it just about right! (Of course
> > readjust the mixture screw with the Lambda running).
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> >
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx>
wrote:
> > > Having taken all the advice I could get from the list and the
> > archives, I
> > > have attempted to set up both the CO mixture as well as the CIS
> > idle. This
> > > was fiddled with by the previous owner and never properly
reset. I
> >
> >
> >
> > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please
address:
> > moderators@xxxx
> >
> > For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> >
> > To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:14:21 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: window problem
If you're not hearing any noise, it's the switch (or you popped the fuse
on the way down!)
Martin
dsstriker wrote:
>my driver's side window will go down, but not up, Any way to get this
>window up just for now? Let me know, thanks, Dan
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:15:56 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Rustproof" DeLorean
It's worth mentioning that you should not use stainless bolts in the
engine, as they will weld themselves in place - stainless and aluminium
don't like each other :-)
Martin
Jim Strickland wrote:
>Ya, Bill's right... Though I've taken/cut out more rusty bolts than most
>people, and changed them to stainless. When I said rustproof, I meant
>the body (obviously).
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:45:19 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting is such sweet sorrow
You've got new components installed, and that's great. But you want to
make sure that both the new, and the old components are functioning
properly.
Follow the procedures in the Workshop Manual, and test the both the
Ballast Resistor, and the Ignition Coil with a voltmeter. If you've
done a tune up already, that's great. But but check both your work,
and the quality of compoents involved. Only replace the ignition coil
with a BOSCH equivalent, or better (I HIGHLY reccomend a new MSD Coil
& Ballast resistor). Stay away from Accell coils, and also stay away
from any ignition wire sets that don't say BOSCH. I've wasted money on
"performance" wires only to find they were leaking voltage, and arcing
to the block on 4 wires!
Also, check your electrical connections, and double-check the work
that you've done so far. Clean crimped wire connections with either
sand paper, or a regular pencil eraser. Both work quite well at
removing corrosion. And make sure the wires are securely connected to
the sparkplugs. They should "click" into place. If not, you may need
to slightly bend the connectors inside of the boot to grip the
terminals a bit better (or if your plugs came with them, swap out to
the larger terminals included). In addition, what did you gap the
plugs to? Too large a gap (like how the plugs are set fresh from the
box), and the car will not run properly due to a weak spark.
One thing I'd strongly advise to do is completly drain the gas tank,
and replace with fresh, premium gasoline. If you've got old gas, and
fuel system cleaner/treatment in it, consider it contaminated. Your
best bet to dispose of it is to pour it into a vehicle that you don't
care as much about, and let that car or truck burn it off (check the
back archives for details about fuel system cleaner problems). Bad
gasoline can have a VERY strong impact on how a car will run.
Start there, and check your results to see where you should take this
next. With the symptoms you've described, this could be any one number
of issues. Or it may be several issues combined. You won't know until
you take each troubleshooting step one at a time to find the root
problem(s).
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 21
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:23:01 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting is such sweet sorrow
Harold is proabably right, you have more than just 1 problem. I would
get the fuel system cleaner out, the car won't run right with it and
it is hard to adjust the mixture screw with the cleaner in there
anyway. Get fresh fuel in and have the mixture screw adjusted, it is
VERY sensitive so you really only make very minor adjustments. Once
set it usually never needs to be adjusted again unless you touch it.
It should only be adjusted after you replace all the worn parts. Too
many times it is adjusted to try to correct a problem in the system
like dirty fuel injectors, dirty air filter, bad 02 sensor, vacuum
leaks, etc. The hard hot start could be the very common "bad
accumulater syndrome". Just switch the cold start and CPR plugs to
verify when starting hot. On an automatic you have an additional
vacuum line down to the front of the transmission. Check the hoses at
both ends. Vacuum leaks will make any problem you have worse so go
over the entire car for them.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "freakybeetle" <freakybeetle@xxxx> wrote:
> Thanks for the ideas so far!
>
> I might help if I give you a little more background on the problem.
> When I first bought the car it was running very, very rich. The CO
> had already been adjusted (plug was removed) when I drove the car
> home day one. I have since then replaced the plug with the DMC
>
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Message: 22
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 12:36:08 -0700
From: Joe Angell <jangell@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cooling fans and the ignition
> It sounds like your relay is sticking. The circuit that starts the
> relay is activated with the ignition switch but the wire going to
> the relay to run the fans is "hot at all times". Get a heavy duty
> relay from John Hervey (40 amps). Both fans take a full 22 amps at
> run (11 amps each) and nearly 40 amps to start them. That is a lot
> to take away from the starter circuit - especially if your battery
> is low or marginal.
I checked and found I do have a 40 amp relay in there, which is a
replacement for another 40 amp that we thought was faulty last week.
I noticed that if I have the AC on (which causes the fans to run) when
I start the car and the car is cool, the fans turn off so the starter
can get power.
However, if the fans are running because the car is hot, the fans stay
on when trying to start, and the starter won't turn over.
My FanZilla should be here early next week, so maybe I'll get lucky and
that will fix the problem. But I'm also considering putting a
transistor on the control line to the fan relay from the starter relay,
automatically disabling the fans entirely when trying to start the car.
Should be a pretty straight-forward fix. In any case, I have some
cooling issues (need a new radiator) which is why this is coming up in
the first place.
Thanks for the help!
-- Joe
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Message: 23
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2003 18:14:43 -0400
From: "Jeff" <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: modified sunstar models
I'm sure there will be. There was the last show, which I was SUPPOSED to
judge, but unfortunately, my car (not a D) broke down on my way there. I
was unable to attend. In fact, I'm not even sure if I'll have the
resources to go next year. Rest assured, if the interest is there, a
space will be provided to show them off.
-Jeff Chabotte
Norwich, CT
Webmaster, http://www.88-mph.com
-----Original Message-----
From: zdmcman [mailto:zdmcman@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 4:54 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] modified sunstar models
I am coming to pigeon forge tenn for the show and i have made a few
intersting customized sunstars...is there going to be a category for
custom sunstar delorean's, or a spot for the models that are
customized? that would be great since i am in hawaii and can't bring
my real car!lol..thanks!
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Message: 24
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:33:26 -0000
From: "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean will not start
Hello all:
I cannot get my DeLorean to start. I thought the fuel pump was bad,
however when I jumped the RPM relay it was working. I then thought
the RPM relay was bad so I installed the relay updates, however that
has not fixed the problem.
The Inertia switch is closed, so that is not the problem, either.
What should I do next?
Greg
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Message: 25
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2003 21:42:56 -0000
From: "dmcorlando2003" <SundeQuick@xxxxxxx>
Subject: best way to flush cooling system?
I want to flush my cooling system and replace the anti-freeze. Wat
is the best way to do this....besides taking it to a mechanic (LOL)
Thanks
Michael
#2944
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