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There are 14 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: First post as an owner :)
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: door lights
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
3. Re: door lights
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
5. Idle Speed Regulator
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Idle speed regulator removal
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
From: "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Idle Speed Regulator
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: DeLorean problems
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: A small favor...
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 12:59:55 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: First post as an owner :)
supermattthehero wrote:
>
>1. What is the preferred method to re-attach the gas cap? It looks
>like the epoxy cracked that held it to the hinge.
>
Do you mean the flap has become detatched from the bonnet, or the cap
doesn't fit? With your vin, you should have a lockable cap, and the
spring-loaded flap in the bonnet.
>
>2. If the key is turned to the 'on' position without the engine
>running, what instrument panel lights should be illuminated?
>
Oil, battery, fuel (if low), all of them, basically.
>
>3. Will a Lockzilla fix a door lock that sticks in the 1/2-way
>position?
>
No. You need to adjust ht elink-rods in the door. There's a procedure i
the updates manual.
>
>4. It seems like the passenger side power window, when closing,
>attempts to 'over-crank' after it has closed and makes an awful
>noise. Any idea what this could be?
>
You have OEM regulators and the teeth have been chewed off the drive
gear. Ther are stronger replacements available.
>
>5. I've read the owner's manual, but I'm still unsure how the
>luggage compartment, and engine compartment release levers
>are "supposed" to work. My engine compartment lever does not seem to
>do anything; I can lift and lower the louvers and compartment
>covering freely. The luggage compartment, I need to pull the lever
>and at the same time pull up on the hood to raise it.
>
The luggage compartment is workign fine - the later cars had a stronger
spring in the latch so the bonnet goes "pung" on its own when you pull
the lever, but yours won't. The engine cover should latch shut,but the
louvers freely move.
Martin
#1458 (close to yours)
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 13:12:56 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: door lights
Take a screwdriver and take out the red plastic lid, the rubber will stay in
place.
Elvis
> Hi All
> This is probably a simple question for you. The red door light on
> the driver door burned out, all the others work on both doors. How do I
> > get to the bulb to replace it? Does the rubber seal and red
> plastic pop out or do I have to unscrew something in the door to get to
the bulb
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 13:20:53 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: door lights
Pop the lens out with a small flat screwdriver - you can now squish and
remove the rubber boot. The bulbs are a push-fit
Martin
Joe B wrote:
>Hi All
>
>This is probably a simple question for you. The red door light on the
>driver door burned out, all the others work on both doors. How do I
>get to the bulb to replace it? Does the rubber seal and red plastic
>pop out or do I have to unscrew something in the door to get to the
>bulb?
>
>
>
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 08:04:46 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
Here is a problem I have had on two cars.
The car starts normally and runs fine. All of a sudden it quits
Diagnosis : No spark.
There is power to the coil and when you put power to the key you can get a
spark (one) across a plug when going direct from the coil)
After sitting it will start again for a while. (Sometiomes minutes sometimes
a half hour) One car went totally dead the other still starts on ocassion.
Well I am going to test it today but I feel it is the module not the pick up
coil.
Over the years I have seen this problem pop up now and again. As of this
point I don't know which one it is but I am betting module.
The one car is repaired.
Working on #2.
Does this problem sound familiar. I seem to see this on these cars that sit.
Never on a car that runs.
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 08:12:59 EDT
From: doctorDHD@xxxxxxx
Subject: Idle Speed Regulator
I think that the 'forward" auxiliary pipe, ie the one that just plugs in with
an O-ring is very loose. Looking at the workshop manual figure 35, on
D:05:01 it shows this going to the "AIR" supply. It seems to me that if there was a
leak at this point it really won't affect anything. Please explain if I am
wrong.
What are the specs of the O-ring will I need when I replace the pipe?
Dave & 6530
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 14:12:02 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle speed regulator removal
To see the hole in the bottom of the fuel housing that the tube from
the IAC motor goes into. Although Hank noted to me that you can also
see it from above with a sufficiently bright light. I just recall
that finding the hole with the o-ring where that tube goes to be a
tremendous pain.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, jordan rubin <nuttenschleuder@xxxx>
wrote:
> Dave,
>
>
> Im wondering what the mirror is for. It looks to be
> like the two rubber hoses connected on both sides are
> in reasonably accessable location, unless there is
> something else im missing.
> thanx
>
> jordan 11613
>
> --- Dave Swingle <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> > Getting it out is the easy part. Pull it and the
> > whole tube out.
> > Getting it back in is another matter. Involving some
> > luck and small
> > mirrors. It's quite do-able though. See adjacent
> > post for the
> > pitfalls. To avoid dirt clean everything before you
> > start taking
> > things apart.
> >
> > Dave Swingle
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 14:36:09 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't
Recheck that you have COMPLETELY bled the clutch system. Check the
level of lubricant in the transmission. Adjust the shift linkage as
per the Workshop Manual. If none of this helps then you will have to
remove the clutch and inspect it for wear or overheat. The trans may
need to have the roll pin replaced from the abuse of the previous
owner not being able to shift properly.
David teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "steve" <steve@xxxx> wrote:
> 81 Manual Delorean 17k miles
>
> Clutch starting to not go into 1st and reverse a month after i got
> the car, the previous owner didn't drive much. still had stock clutch
> line, i replaced it with the SS clutch line, bled it out and every
> thing. I had NO clutch fluid leak anywhere. My fluid level is
> good, right after we put it in, we tested the clutch when it was
> still half way up on jacks, the reverse and first gear worked very
> well (little stickyness in reverse), but we go and drive it and 1st
> gear still has trouble getting into it, and reverse ALWAYS wants to
> grind, sometimes, the thing spins down and stops, but most of the
> time the gear just wont go in cause it rubs. i have no more money,
> what in the freak is going on........ tired of this. remember ,
> the car only has 17k miles and all gears are sticky kinda but 1st and
> reverse are wayy worse. also 5th gear has always been hard-you got
> to slam it in there to get it to work. please help before i go
> insane.
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 14:42:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
The most common causes of this symptom are a bad connection at the
white ballast resistors or a bad pick-up coil in the distributer. You
are also correct a bad ECU module can cause this too but before you go
there check all the connections. A bad connection can make the ECU
look bad. Just the process of swapping an ECU may "fix" a bad
connection and lead you to conclude the 1st ECU was bad when it was
really a connection you disturbed. If you have 2 or more car just swap
parts until you can get the trouble to move to the other car. Then you
know for sure you have the "litttle troublemaker". ECU's do not seem
to have a high failure rate.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, kKoncelik@xxxx wrote:
>
>
> Here is a problem I have had on two cars.
>
> The car starts normally and runs fine. All of a sudden it quits
> Diagnosis : No spark.
> There is power to the coil and when you put power to the key you can
get a
> spark (one) across a plug when going direct from the coil)
>
> After sitting it will start again for a while. (Sometiomes minutes
sometimes
> a half hour) One car went totally dead the other still starts on
ocassion.
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:51:35 -0400
From: "michael townsley" <townfour@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
I also have a low mileage (7800 miles) 83 5 sp that requires work i.e. two
hands on the shifter to get it into reverse especially when you first start
it up. After you use reverse a few times it gets easier to engage
sometimes....I thought this was either just quirk of the car (generically)
i.e. it is suppose be hard to shift into reverse to prevent an inadvertent
shift or function of low use or both. The car also has some difficulty
moving forward in 1st from a dead stop...however I am thinking that is
probably more of a fuel, vacuum or ignition problem. It works great once you
are rolling forward above 20 MPH.
I would also like to know if the tricky reverse problem is related to
problem with the clutch system or something else....has anybody had success
using a synthetic lubricant in the transmission?
Mike Townsley
-----Original Message-----
From: steve [mailto:steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 1:09 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st
gear STILL won't go!
81 Manual Delorean 17k miles
Clutch starting to not go into 1st and reverse a month after i got
the car, the previous owner didn't drive much.
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 09:54:12 -0500
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st gear STILL won't go!
The throw out bearing may be hanging up on you. I had a coolant leak at one
time, right above the bell housing, and the throw out bearing ended up
rusted to the input shaft. If the throw out bearing does not move full
stroke, you will end up grinding gears. I pulled the transmission, changed
the throw out bearing and clutch and have had no more problems.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: steve [mailto:steve@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 11:09 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Just changed to SS Clutch line, better, but REVERSE and 1st
gear STILL won't go!
81 Manual Delorean 17k miles
Clutch starting to not go into 1st and reverse a month after i got
the car, the previous owner didn't drive much. still had stock clutch
line, i replaced it with the SS clutch line, bled it out and every
thing. I had NO clutch fluid leak anywhere. My fluid level is
good, right after we put it in, we tested the clutch when it was
still half way up on jacks, the reverse and first gear worked very
well (little stickyness in reverse), but we go and drive it and 1st
gear still has trouble getting into it, and reverse ALWAYS wants to
grind, sometimes, the thing spins down and stops, but most of the
time the gear just wont go in cause it rubs. i have no more money,
what in the freak is going on........ tired of this. remember ,
the car only has 17k miles and all gears are sticky kinda but 1st and
reverse are wayy worse. also 5th gear has always been hard-you got
to slam it in there to get it to work. please help before i go
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 15:00:20 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Idle Speed Regulator
Big (3/4") wrong. Except for PCV, every ounce of air that enters your
engine should travel over air sensor plate. Is the only way to meter
fuel. Vacuum leaks (air entering engine other than over air sensor
plate) cause mixture to lean. Lean enough, and engine will die from
fuel starvation.
At closed throttle, air normally passes over air sensor plate, through
"forward" supply pipe, through idle speed motor, then into intake (via
cold start tube). If that pipe is loose, air will just get sucked from
outside world under fuel distributor.
Some DeLo O rings are available at hardware store. Others (like intake
manifold) are vendor only. If you want to avoid any guess work just
order from a vendor.
Note upper air assembly will need to come off to replace. Might
consider changing gaskets and O rings at U pipes same time.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, doctorDHD@xxxx wrote:
> I think that the 'forward" auxiliary pipe, ie the one that just
plugs in with
> an O-ring is very loose. Looking at the workshop manual figure 35, on
> D:05:01 it shows this going to the "AIR" supply. It seems to me
that if there was a
> leak at this point it really won't affect anything. Please explain
if I am
> wrong.
>
> What are the specs of the O-ring will I need when I replace the pipe?
>
> Dave & 6530
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 1 Aug 2003 10:07:02 -0700
From: "John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
Ken, The first thing I would check is the pulse coil. 600ohms about cold and
hot would be open. And 2nd would be any loose connections on the resistor.
If ok then back track from there.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: kKoncelik@xxxxxxx [mailto:kKoncelik@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 5:05 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Car runs then quits Electrical problem.
Here is a problem I have had on two cars.
The car starts normally and runs fine. All of a sudden it quits
Diagnosis : No spark.
There is power to the coil and when you put power to the key you can get a
spark (one) across a plug when going direct from the coil)
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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 15:30:11 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean problems
>From reading posts on the DML the casual observer may conclude that a
Delorean is nothing but a bunch of problems covered by Stainless
Steel. The truth is somewhat better than that. Many of the "problems"
can be traced to improper procedures done by less than knowledgeable
mechanics for previous owners. When a "new" owner aquires his "dream"
the first impulse is to try to make a 20 + year old car look and work
like new. Depending on the car's history in many cases this requires
undoing a lot of the previous work and doing a lot of neglected
maintaince. I still see many cars running on ORIGIONAL cooling hoses!
Many have not had all the recalls. Burnt wires and melted plugs are
not fixed. Some cars have replacement parts that are not correct,
especially in the fuel system. Dead lambda systems, juryrigged idle
systems, jumpered out inertia switches, origional fan fail relays and
lock modules. I could go on and on but these are all known problem
areas with good reliable fixes. A new owner should realistically
budjet $5,000 just for all the parts and upgrades and do them so that
he can have a reliable car. This is not to say that every car is a
piece of junk but if the previous owner neglected the car and didn't
keep up with maintaince then you as the new owner should plan for it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxx> wrote:
> After reading all the new problems owners are having brings one
thing to mind. When I first got my car I made a purchase of the
DeLorean Service Bulletins from PJ Grady. This book covers a vast
amount of upgrades and changes to our cars that is not covered in the
repair manuals. A worthwhile purchase.
>
> Dave Sontos
> vin 02573
> Poquoson, VA
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 15:18:39 -0000
From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A small favor...
It's true, I have not used a gauge. I'll add it to the pile. :)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Josh Keady <joshkeady@xxxx> wrote:
> Rich, I get the impression that you haven't used a legitimate
> compression gauge to check your cylinder compression... am I just
> reading things wrong or have you actually hooked up a gauge that
> measures cylinder compression in PSI/bar/mmHg etc? That you're getting
> compression you can feel is good, but your thumb can only be so
> accurate, if ya knowadImean...
>
> Just adding one more thing to the pile,
>
> Josh
>
> On Thursday, July 31, 2003, at 03:46 PM, cruznmd wrote:
>
> > Ok guys,
> >
> ...
>
> > When I pull the plugs, I get a -great- "whuff" of air from the spark
> > plug holes. You can put your hand 2 or 3 feet above the engine and
> > feel it easily, but nothing from the exhaust.
> >...>
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rich
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