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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Front rotor... cross reference?
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. DMCH Concours
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
4. Re: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: Broken bolt (leaking internal water pipe)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
6. Door strut strength?
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 07:11:10 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
make sure you have bled the system and gotten rid of all air bubbles.
next
time it overheats, feel the aluminum pipes. Make sure the front radiator
is
getting warm, and make sure the pipe with the otterstadt is getting warm.
Maybe your thermostat is stuck. I had a problem where the coolant wasn't
circulating and the car was overheating and the otterstadt pipe was cool.
therefore it would never kick the fans on. Could also be a failed
waterpump. I think coolant self bleeder kit is worth it's money. Try it.
Joseph M.
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "cdmcali" <cdmcali@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 11:37 PM
Subject: [DML] cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
> ok everybody ready here we go. my car overheated a while ago and
> haven't had time to work on it until now. I have drained the system
> and added new coolant and a new otterstat switch thinking that my
> fans were not working( when the car overheated I forgot to check to
> see if the fans were on). I started the car and the temp guage went
> almost up to the 220 mark rapidly and the fans never came on so I
> shut off the car and let it sit. I bypassed the otterstat switch so
> the fans would run continuously and started it up. now the temp guage
> stays right at the second line(the one above 100) but it seems that
> the engine is still getting hotter. I am afraid to find out if is
> getting hotter and the temp guage just isn't working. I am not sure
> if I bleed the system right or if I am sucking in air. I have read
> all the ways to bleed the system but keep getting things confused. I
> am also not sure why my fans aren't coming on when they are supposed
> to. any help with this would be more than helpful. Thank you
> cdmcali (4626)
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 08:47:57 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front rotor... cross reference?
I got a call from John Hervey and he said he couldn't sell me the
cross-drilled PowerStop rotors unless they are a complete set. All I need
(and can afford at the moment) are the fronts.
Has anyone put on the PowerStops? Anyone got a part number or cross
reference?
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 11:26:38 EDT
From: mroboto@xxxxxxx
Subject: DMCH Concours
I wanted to say thanks to the staff at DMC Houston for the crunch time
efforts in helping prepare our cars for the Concours. It was a lot of
work,
but a great experience.
In addition, I'd like to extend thanks to the Judges who spent several
hours
of their time meticulously inspecting the cars. They were all fair and
thorough, and I appreciate their efforts.
It was nice seeing some old DeLorean friends and making new ones.
See you all in Pigeon Forge!
(paid for by Ken K.)
-Daniel Deutsch (Orlando)
3356 & 15779
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 15:25:54 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cooling system is being a pain. Info would help please
Stick in a new thermostat. If you get good readings on the second
thermostat, chances are gauge is correct.
Car comes with two bleed lines: at high points of radiator and block
(via heater core supply). These purge air continuously. Is a bleeder
valve at high point of whole system (under thermostat), but is not a
continuous purge. What many owners do is replace that valve with a
hose barb and run one more bleed line to a tee inserted where block
bleed empties into coolant expansion bottle. With all high points thus
covered, all you have to do is fill (remember: 50/50 mixture cools
better than pure antifreeze) and run the engine. System will bleed itself.
While you're working on cooling system, don't overlook what may be
factory original hoses and seals, especially in hidden or hard to
reach places.
John Hervey (www.specialtauto.com) sells otterstats with variety of
temperature ratings.
PRV runs surprisingly warm. Long after engine shut down you're still
burning your fingers. After you've verified gauge reading correct (and
cooling system purged of air) rely on it, not radiant heat from the block.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cdmcali" <cdmcali@xxxx> wrote:
> ok everybody ready here we go. my car overheated a while ago and
> haven't had time to work on it until now. I have drained the system
> and added new coolant and a new otterstat switch thinking that my
> fans were not working( when the car overheated I forgot to check to
> see if the fans were on). I started the car and the temp guage went
> almost up to the 220 mark rapidly and the fans never came on so I
> shut off the car and let it sit. I bypassed the otterstat switch so
> the fans would run continuously and started it up. now the temp guage
> stays right at the second line(the one above 100) but it seems that
> the engine is still getting hotter. I am afraid to find out if is
> getting hotter and the temp guage just isn't working. I am not sure
> if I bleed the system right or if I am sucking in air. I have read
> all the ways to bleed the system but keep getting things confused. I
> am also not sure why my fans aren't coming on when they are supposed
> to. any help with this would be more than helpful. Thank you
> cdmcali (4626)
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 12:12:02 +0200 (MEST)
From: elvisnocita@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Broken bolt (leaking internal water pipe)
Bill, this sounds to be a really great idea to put SS bolts into aluminum.
They will freeze together even faster without the leaking pipe than the
original bolts with coolant around it.
Maybe with studs and nuts it will be ok, but SS combined with any other
metals
is always a bad solution.
When I replaced those bolts last year I used Mike Sander's anti rust
grease.
The same stuff that I put on the frame. Great stuff. Even after years
there
won't be
a problem to get out those bolts again.
Elvis & 6548
> The reason bolts broke was BECAUSE internal water pipe leaked. In the
> presence of moisture, steel and aluminum weld themselves together. A
> real catch-22, eh? If the pipe's leaking, you've got to remove the
> bolts. But if the pipe's leaking, is good chance the bolts will break.
>
> As much as I don't want to do it, decided tonight I am going to take
> intake manifold off AGAIN and replace my bolts with stainless steel
> studs and nuts before same happens to me. Will replace water pump
> mounting bolts too. A little inconvenience now may be appreciated in
> the future...
>
> Anyone want to buy some of my left over drill rod and nuts?
>
> Bill Robertson
> #5939
--
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 15 May 2003 16:13:52 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <James_rg@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Door strut strength?
Hi,
Does anyone know the strength in Newton Meters of the door struts
used on the DeLorean?
Thanks
James RG UK
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