To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Houston Open House
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: fan fail relay
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Professional Fuel Injection Cleaner Hookups
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: aluminum coolant pipes
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: DeLorean For Sale
From: "Aaron Crocco" <Slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
7. Re: Re: aluminum coolant pipes
From: "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. RE: Re: aluminum coolant pipes
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
9. Re: Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Delorean Interior Clean
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. Re: fan fail relay
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Lowered suspension
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Lowered suspension
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Lowered suspension
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Lowered suspension
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
16. Pinhole Coolant Leaks
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: aluminum coolant pipes
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Missing Louver Style...
From: James A Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
19. Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
20. Detroit area
From: "Aaron Husak" <ahusak@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Professional Fuel Injection Cleaner Hookups
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re: Exhaust stud removal
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: Missing Louver Style...
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
24. Re: Re: Lowered suspension
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
25. Re: Pinhole Coolant Leaks
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 08:35:48 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Houston Open House
Open House registration CLOSES on APRIL 25, unless the 150 limit is reached
sooner. I fully expect we will reach the 150 limit within the next two weeks
or so...registrations have come in from the following states/countries at
this time...
Texas :-)
Missouri
Florida
California
New York
New Jersey
Ohio
Illinois
Kansas
North Carolina
Alabama
Ohio
Oregon
Tennessee
Minnesota
Washington
Nebraska
United Kingdom
Japan
Two years ago when we had a similar event, we had to turn away about 15
people/couples who waited until the last week before the event to register.
Email me with any questions... james (at) usadmc.com
James Espey
NOTE OUR NEW ADDRESS/PHONE NUMBERS
DeLorean Motor Company
15023 Eddie Drive
Humble, Texas 77396
281/441-2537 Voice
281/441-2813 Fax
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: 25 Mar 2003 13:53:03 -0000
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Houston Open House
>
> I was just curious, are there many people planning on going to the
> DMC open house? If you read this James, how many people do you
> currenlty have registered?
>
> Jordan
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 09:46:08 -0500
From: <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fan fail relay
Well, speaking for myself, when I pulled my little blue relay out and
replace the setup with John Hervey's fan fix, my car had about 10000 miles
on it. The relay had already failed (it was slightly melted).
Eric Itzel
vin 4433
----- Original Message -----
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 12:46 PM
Subject: [DML] fan fail relay
> Hello
> How long did the "blue fan fail relays" last,on an average ? I found
> a D with the stock relay still in place and wondered if this detail
> would indicate a low mileage car....
> thanks !!
> Raphael
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:50:43 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Professional Fuel Injection Cleaner Hookups
I would hesitate in using a fuel injector cleaning system on the
Delorean. On a properly running car the fuel system is to a large
extent self-cleaning as the fuel is constantly being pumped out of the
tank, through the fuel filter to the mixture unit and back to the
tank. Any contamination should wind up inside the fuel filter. The
only area that is not recirculated is the injectors themselves and
they can be removed easily to be cleaned. If you suspect any dirt has
entered the system start by inspecting the fuel tank. If it is dirty
clean it out. Next replace the fuel filter and if you want to know if
the system was heavily contaminated cut the filter open. Be careful as
it will still contain enough gas to be dangerous. Lastly if the system
is still not clean remove the injectors and have them tested and
cleaned. Modern fuels contain additives that will loosen and remove
most organic contamination, the filter is for inorganic contamination
and water. A pressure cleaning system could damage the fuel system by
putting high pressures where they shouldn't be and some have a
pulsating mode that can damage valves in the system. If you do use it
you may see a lot of dirt come out but sometimes loosening it all at
once can really be a bad thing! If you are having fuel system problems
I suspect even after the system cleaning you will continue to have
them and maybe even more. Try to troubleshoot the problem first before
"shotgunning" it by having a "system cleaning". Many fuel system
problems start in the fuel tank so that's where I would begin.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxx>
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I have a question on professional fuel injection cleaners, like the
> NAPA/Echlin universal system. In the instructions for Bosch
K-Jetronic,
> they have instructions to hook the hose to the fuel inlet, plug the
> return port with the included plug, and disconnect the pump at the
fuel
> pump connector.
>
> My question is this: in their diagram, the fuel return only has one
> line shown -- the fuel return line. The return on the frequency
valve
> is also connected to this port, so plugging the port would leave the
> return from the frequency valve disconnected. My thoughts are that
this
> is not a good idea, and instead the return line should be left off
and
> the frequency valve return connected back up to this port with a
> single-hose connector (a spare single hose connector from the main
line
> will fit fine. Any thoughts on this?
>
> Also, is it necessary to disconnect the pump at its connector, or
would
> simply tripping the inertia switch be sufficient?
>
> -Dave
> VIN #05927
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:58:21 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: aluminum coolant pipes
The entire area around the pinhole is going to be too thin to weld due
to the corrosion. The choices are to weld a patch over the area of the
leak or replacement of the pipe. Another possability is if you go to
the auto parts store maybe they can find you a hose that has a bend in
it like the one you have but is a little longer so you can go over the
spot. Since you have found 1 spot you should remove ALL hoses and
clean the corrosion from all pipes. This happens because the coolant
gets old and turns acidic and attacks the aluminum. It also indicates
the hoses are old and need to be replaced. Ther is no easy fix because
of the pressure that must be contained.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, billsfanmd@xxxx wrote:
> I have a very small leak on my passenger side coolant pipe at the
rubber
> "elbow" under the engine where it begins to lead up toward the
resevoir tank.
> It is the 16 inch aluminum coolant pipe pipe and not the rubber
hose. I had
> some corrosion on the ends and it appears there must be a small
pinhole crack
> in the aluminum near the end. If this was at any other spot I would
just cut
> a longer rubber hose and clamp past the hole. Unfortunatly, it is
near the
> special elbow hose. I may just buy another coolant pipe but I was
just
> wondering if there was an easy fix for small holes or corrosion
cracks in
> these pipes...
>
> thanks
>
> Mike C
> 2109
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:05:43 -0500
From: "Aaron Crocco" <Slider_ten@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean For Sale
I also looked at this car. They want $20,000 for it, which in my opinion is
not worth it when it has a cracked binnacle. The dashboard has sun damage
and needs to be re-painted. The frame, from what I saw was nice, but you'd
really need a lift for a full inspection.
-Aaron Crocco
NY Plate: OUTATYM
************************************
You Wrote:
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 22:58:50 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean For Sale
I was attending a wedding in Manhattan NYC this weekend. I was able to
sneak away to one of NYC's many exotic car dealerships. The dealer was
Bimmers & Benz of North America, 201-04 Northern Blvd., Bayside 11361 in the
Queens Borough.
Sure enough they have a 1981, Gray Leather 5 speed, manufactured August 1981
VIN 3175. The stainless & fascia looked good, the only problem was the
typical cracked binnacle and dirty engine compartment.
The dealer is able to assist with financing. 717-279-7231 ask for Soprano,
General Manager.
Best Wishes,
Michael P
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 15:36:51 +0000
From: mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust stud removal
DON'T HEAT THE STUD! That will make the situation WORSE.
You need to have the stud COOLER than the surrounding
aluminum. That's why you spray it with WD-40 - to
cool it and make it SHRINK.
--
Mike
> What are you using for heat? Propane probably not hot enough -- need
> acetylene. Not really a process for novice (which I am w/ gas welders
> BTW. Took my car to a professional). Essentially you heat stud until
> it becomes slightly molten, then remove as quickly as possible.
> Potential problem: can heat stud too much so it melts into threads and
> becomes totally unremovable.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 13:29:39 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "L. Sandel" <ls@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: aluminum coolant pipes
I had a pinhole leak in one of my engine compartment coolant pipes. Since
it was only a pinhole, I was successfully able to repair it with a little
JB Weld. It was caused by the clamp sitting back too far, allowing the
hose to balloon out around the pipe and trap coolant. The clamp should
have been cinched up against the 'bump' in the pipe, instead it was at the
end of the hose (I hope this makes sense). After I discovered this, I
changed out the hoses on my car & put the clamps in better positions.
Luckily, no other problems detected.
I did find quite a few of the hose clamps in bad spots, so it might be
worth checking out as a preventative measure.
-Luke
10270
>I have a very small leak on my passenger side coolant pipe at the
> rubber
>> "elbow" under the engine where it begins to lead up toward the
> resevoir tank.
>> It is the 16 inch aluminum coolant pipe pipe and not the rubber
> hose. I had
>> some corrosion on the ends and it appears there must be a small
> pinhole crack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:37:14 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Re: aluminum coolant pipes
These coolant pipes can be repaired depending on the extent of the damage with aluminum brazing rod and propane or map gas.
Search on aluminim brazing on Google and you'll have all the info you need.
Here's one site you can try right off the bat.
http://www.newtechnologyproducts.net/
The other alternative is to cut your replacement hose long and clamp downstream of the damage.
Jim
6147
"David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>The entire area around the pinhole is going to be too thin to weld due
>to the corrosion. The choices are to weld a patch over the area of the
>leak or replacement of the pipe. Another possability is if you go to
>the auto parts store maybe they can find you a hose that has a bend in
>it like the one you have but is a little longer so you can go over the
>spot. Since you have found 1 spot you should remove ALL hoses and
>clean the corrosion from all pipes. This happens because the coolant
>gets old and turns acidic and attacks the aluminum. It also indicates
>the hoses are old and need to be replaced. Ther is no easy fix because
>of the pressure that must be contained.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, billsfanmd@xxxx wrote:
>> I have a very small leak on my passenger side coolant pipe at the
>rubber
>> "elbow" under the engine where it begins to lead up toward the
>resevoir tank.
>> It is the 16 inch aluminum coolant pipe pipe and not the rubber
>hose. I had
>> some corrosion on the ends and it appears there must be a small
>pinhole crack
>> in the aluminum near the end. If this was at any other spot I would
>just cut
>> a longer rubber hose and clamp past the hole. Unfortunatly, it is
>near the
>> special elbow hose. I may just buy another coolant pipe but I was
>just
>> wondering if there was an easy fix for small holes or corrosion
>cracks in
>> these pipes...
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Mike C
>> 2109
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:46:09 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust stud removal
If you heat first and then cool it down will loosen the stud in the
head. You may consider freezer spray to cool it down FAST.
Martin
mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>DON'T HEAT THE STUD! That will make the situation WORSE.
>You need to have the stud COOLER than the surrounding
>aluminum. That's why you spray it with WD-40 - to
>cool it and make it SHRINK.
>
>--
>Mike
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:22:56 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Interior Clean
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <condoluci@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi People,
>
> I am restoring my Delorean and will be cleaning the Interior tomorrow.
> Do any of you guys have any tips on cleaning the interior - what to use
> and what not to use?
>
> Appreciate any input
>
> Regards
>
> Barry
When detailing the interior, I'll first spray everything with leather & vin=
yl
cleaner. Using a terrly cloth towel, I'll scrub off the dirt, and this make=
s the
vinyl quite supple, and soft. To polish everything, I use an all purpose cl=
eaner
and conditioner by Tannery. It comes in a black spray can, so you can't mis=
s it.
It does an excellent job at recovering color, and will work on leather, vin=
yl,
rubber, and fiberglass. When used properly, it will return the louvers and =
rub
strips back to showroom condition. It really works beautifully on the
underbody as well, and when used on the lenses and clearance lights, will
make them so vibrant, they'll sparkle. If I do a full detailing job (interi=
or,
louvers, spoiler, rockerpanels, trunk, etc..), I'll use over ¾ a can on the=
car.
But keep in mind I also don't have leather seats. And if you use it, it can=
get to
be a bit messy with the overspray. So do the trim before you polish the
stainless with either SS Glo, or Windex.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:37:58 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fan fail relay
My car was already lighting up the "fan fail" light due to the failure
of one fan, caused by the fan fail module, at 2353 miles (when I bought it)
Martin
#1458
#4426
>
>
>>Hello
>>How long did the "blue fan fail relays" last,on an average ? I found
>>a D with the stock relay still in place and wondered if this detail
>>would indicate a low mileage car....
>>thanks !!
>>Raphael
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:54:28 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lowered suspension
Heya list,
I'm now looking for one of 2 things,
either a set of gradys lowered front springs, and set of his
performance shocks, (mildly used is fine)
or a set of lowered front springs and any good shocks.
Also does anyone have DMCh's springs on thier car, that they can send
me a picture of (the stance of the car)? How are they as far as ride??
thanks!
James LaLonde 4009
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 15:36:32 -0600
From: Gus Schlachter <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lowered suspension
James,
I have Houston's lowering springs and performance shocks. I can attest to their
superior performance over the stock configuration.
The photos on delorean.com are accurate; the car sits level and a bit lower. The ride
is very good, as it took both me and my fussy S.O. to Graceland and back.
If I had any misgivings, it would be the suspension travel. Once or twice, while
hard-braking over a bump, one or more tires locked and skidded slightly (smoke). I take
this to mean that the bump caused too much upward travel, allowing the wheel in question
to lock and skid momentarily when contact with the road was reestablished. But this may
be more a function of my brakes, or even my tire pressure, and frankly I'm just
guessing.
Gus Schlachter
VIN #4695
Austin, TX
James LaLonde wrote:
> Heya list,
>
> I'm now looking for one of 2 things,
>
> either a set of gradys lowered front springs, and set of his
> performance shocks, (mildly used is fine)
>
> or a set of lowered front springs and any good shocks.
>
> Also does anyone have DMCh's springs on thier car, that they can send
> me a picture of (the stance of the car)? How are they as far as ride??
>
> thanks!
> James LaLonde 4009
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:04:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lowered suspension
James,
I have front and rear springs that were cut by DMC Garden Grove. It
lowered my car way down, and it looked and drove better - on flat
surfaces. I ended up taking them off because the car is my daily driver
and it was just too low for daily driving.
I don't know how often you drive, but if you're looking for a really low
car, these are your springs.
-Christian
On Tue, 25 Mar 2003, James LaLonde wrote:
> Heya list,
>
> I'm now looking for one of 2 things,
>
> either a set of gradys lowered front springs, and set of his
> performance shocks, (mildly used is fine)
>
> or a set of lowered front springs and any good shocks.
>
> Also does anyone have DMCh's springs on thier car, that they can send
> me a picture of (the stance of the car)? How are they as far as ride??
>
> thanks!
> James LaLonde 4009
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 01:39:11 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lowered suspension
I have Grady's front springs. I can't compare the ride to DMCH's but
the stance appears identical to me. The lower front springs of
Grady's I can attest, are worth every dime! It has been like getting
a new car. The steering, the handling, the ride, all these things
improved. Of course I also replaced a lot of bushings, tie rod ends
etc. I went for WINGD 2's shock kit. The ride in the rear is really
worth an award. The front shocks are just a tad weak and dip more
than I like in corners. But, the ride, especially with the ruined NJ
roads from a hard winter is excellent. As a matter of fact, I have
logged over 150,000 miles in a DeLorean and the setup I have now may
be the best I've experienced.
Harold McElraft - 3354
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 13:23:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Pinhole Coolant Leaks
This recent thread usually brings up some admonition
that the cause of the problem is the lack of
frequent
changes of anti-freeze. While this may exascerbate
the problem, the root cause is something else.
Check out
http://www.radcapproducts.com/prodinfo.html
for a very interesting discussion that should be of
real interest to all of us with aluminum engines.
Unfortunately, the product they sell won't fit in
our
header bottles without some modification. However,
it
is a very interesting bit of information.
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop!
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:21:04 -0800
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: aluminum coolant pipes
I would presume that you could take the aluminum pipe to a welder shop
and they can weld it. Simple job.
Ski 4649
-----Original Message-----
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx [mailto:billsfanmd@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:51 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] aluminum coolant pipes
I have a very small leak on my passenger side coolant pipe at the rubber
"elbow" under the engine where it begins to lead up toward the resevoir
tank.
It is the 16 inch aluminum coolant pipe pipe and not the rubber hose. I
had
some corrosion on the ends and it appears there must be a small pinhole
crack
in the aluminum near the end. If this was at any other spot I would just
cut
a longer rubber hose and clamp past the hole. Unfortunatly, it is near
the
special elbow hose. I may just buy another coolant pipe but I was just
wondering if there was an easy fix for small holes or corrosion cracks
in
these pipes...
thanks
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 22:15:43 -0500
From: James A Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Missing Louver Style...
I also considered not putting my louvres back on after I took them off.
Although sometimes called the sun-shade, the manual says that the louvres
were added to decrease the car's coefficient of drag.
Jim
1537
On Mon, 24 Mar 2003 21:58:09 EST Delorean17@xxxxxxx writes:
> Hello,
> I took my louver off this winter to have it painted but I
> sort of fell
> in love with the way the car looks without it installed. I have
> heard that
> the Louver creates somewhat of a vacuum which cools the engine
> better. Is it
> really that big of a deal? I never drive my car when it rains so I
> am not
> worried about water entering the engine compartment. Any input
> would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks for your time
>
>
> Peace
>
> Dave
> 6286
>
________________________________________________________________
Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today
Only $9.95 per month!
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 14:12:08 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean & Lagonda
In a message dated 03/25/2003 8:16:48 AM Eastern Standard Time,
agsutsch@xxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Re: DeLoreans and Aston Martin Lagonda
Hello Michael,
this is a weird one. I never thought of Aston Lagondas and DeLoreans in one
line.
Yes, I own Lagonda 13354, a 1984 Series II, originally delivered to Ryiadh,
S.A. At 27'000 km it is in great shape. It's a lovely car and everything
works (after replacing some touch switches). 13354 is light blue with an
Everflex roof and bumpers in dark blue and recently (be me) fitted magnolia
leather trim inside. I did not like a sun bleeched Saudi light blue velours.
>>
Dear Arthur:
Thank you for your offer to send DeLorean & Lagonda pictures. When I
traveled to the Belfast DeLorean Expo I had the pleasure of talking with Mr.
Michael Loasby former director of engineering at DMC and at Aston Martin,
specifically the Lagonda project. Mr. Loasby said "the Lagonda is a wonderful
car" and included "the Lagonda project was a lot of fun." I was presented an
offer to purchase a 15,000 mile USA spec Lagonda.
The Lagonda that I want is a 1 owner, 1989, VIN 13573, Series 4 Lagonda,
pearl white, burgundy leather with oyster highlighted piping on the seat
edges. The car has full documentation and service history. The car was
delivered new to Miami Aston Martin.
You are correct about the eccentric livery and interior combinations on the
Lagondas from Saudi Arabia. 60% of the Lagonda sales were in the Middle East.
Do you have any insight, information, and maintenance similarities to the
Lagonda, while owning a DeLorean too?
I will try to send you some pictures of both cars soon.
Best Wishes,
Michael P
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 16:38:40 -0600
From: "Aaron Husak" <ahusak@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Detroit area
Anyone on the list live in the Detroit area? I'll be heading to Dearborn in
June with two vintage cars in tow and am looking at hotels along Michigan
Ave. I'm noticing a price and availability difference in the 22000 block
area versus the 12000 block area. Do I need to be concerned about being in
a bad area. Are there certain areas to avoid. I'd like to be as close to
Dearborn as possible.
Please reply off line if you can give a foreigner some guidance.
-Aaron
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 01:14:10 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Professional Fuel Injection Cleaner Hookups
Dave
The kit I have is a Volvo and it has a fitting for the frequency
valve to do just as you describe. That way the frequency valve is
included in the flush. I have used this on several systems that sat
for a long time and it definitely helped. However, I also
discovered, by accident, that Marvel Mystery Oil works miracles in
the k-jetronic system. With the k-jetronic recirculation the system
is thoroughly cleaned and without any real trouble. I can tell you
that one car I had was really a slug, ran rough and had sit a long
time. I replaced all the fuel parts from the pump up to the warm up
regulator but the system showed varnish, etc. I put in some MMO and
every time I started the car it ran better until it was smooth as
silk. About 2 weeks and 2 tanks of gas. I still run some in the
system every spring.
Harold McElraft - 3354
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 03:19:03 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Exhaust stud removal
Hmm, I wish you had told me that before we removed all those studs.
Maybe we could have chosen a more difficult or time consuming method.
I was under the car with the mechanic. When he said "go", I quickly
removed each stud with a pair of channel locks. They were glowing
cherry red. Saw them with my own four eyes.
No WD-40 either.
I *DO* emphasize, this mechanic is very good with a torch. Knows
exactly when to turn stuck fastener. That's why I travelled 400 miles
to see him.
Don't know how hot aluminum needs to get to warp, but personally would
have been afraid to attack head itself with torch.
Bill Robertson
#5939 (sounds like a DeLorean, not a Doodlebug)
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mike.griese@xxxx wrote:
> DON'T HEAT THE STUD! That will make the situation WORSE.
> You need to have the stud COOLER than the surrounding
> aluminum. That's why you spray it with WD-40 - to
> cool it and make it SHRINK.
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:36:36 -0800
From: "W.\"Ski\" Lukowski" <vegascop1@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Missing Louver Style...
Come on guys! The louvers are the symbol of the 80's! I think the D
looks like it lost it's pants without the louvers on, sheesh! ...sorry,
that's my opinion.
Ski 4649
-----Original Message-----
From: James A Strickland [mailto:ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx]
Subject: Re: [DML] Missing Louver Style...
I also considered not putting my louvres back on after I took them off.
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 22:38:18 -0500
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Lowered suspension
James,
i have the exact same setup as Harold - Grady's lowered front springs with Marty Maier's shock set-up. Marty's rear shocks have an adjustable collar so you can adjust the ride height a little. on my car, the rear is lowered just a little and the front wheels has equal spacing all the way around the wheel well - which is the way it should look, IMHO. i haven't ridden in enough other D's to attest to how much of a difference this suspension setup makes, but i do know that i definitely prefer my DeLorean to my 1990 cutlass supreme!
i also agree with Harold as far as the front end goes - sometimes it feels a little loose but i also need new tie rod ends so maybe it's not the suspension's fault. either way, i'm sure it's better than the stock ride and it certainly looks great too!
Andy
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Message: 25
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 03:40:02 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Pinhole Coolant Leaks
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> Unfortunately, the product they sell won't fit in
> our
> header bottles without some modification. However,
> it
> is a very interesting bit of information.
>
> Dick Ryan
> VIN 16867
That's a very interesting product that they're selling, I've seen products like
these in the past, but have never been too sure of their efficency. And looking
at a couple of independany web pages, the theory for the radiator caps
appears to plausable. I am curious however, why would they not fit on a
DeLorean? The coolant bottle is deeper than some radiators, and uses a
common sized cap, that can also accept a common pressure rating.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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