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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Door Lock Solenoids
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. RE: Re: deloreans do float...
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
5. Brake fluid Again
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxx>
6. Fuse box...
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
7. DeLorean Tatoo
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Fw: Back to The Future Replicas
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
10. Re: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: WATER PUMP POLL
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
12. Re: Brake fluid Again
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Brake fluid Again
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. RE: Brake fluid Again
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Brake fluid Again
From: "outatym2001" <markman660@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Brake fluid Again
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Brake fluid Again
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 12:15:58 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
Mark, your poll may not give you the answers you need. My water pump failed at about 58,000
miles. I responded to your poll, but my response only tells you that it failed and I
replaced it. The survey does not refelect the critical information that if failed very
close to where your car is now.
I believe that you want data on when pumps fail, but you're asking about when they don't
fail.
My two cents:
If you only drive your DeLorean around town you probably don't have to replace the pump
pre-emptively, you can wait until it fails (Never drive witout coolant! You might join AAA
or carry water and antifreeze for the day when you need to limp home). But if you plan on
taking a long drive, now might be a good time to replace your pump.
- Mike Substelny
VIN 01280
Second water pump going strong.
id wrote:
> I am about to do all of the hoses on my car and i need your help. My water pump is
> working and not leaking and i have 52,000 miles on my car. I have been told to replace it
> but that is where i need your help. I want to know if you still have your original pump
> and how many miles are on your car so i can decide if i should just buy a new pump.
>
> I created a poll so i can see the failure rate of the pump by how many miles are on your
> car.
>
> Thanks for your help
> Mark
> 6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 18:52:30 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
The main reason for replacement of the water pump at the time you have
the top of the engine all apart is because of all the work it takes to
get there. (Same logic goes for doing a tune-up at the same time.There
may still be some life left in the old water pump but because of the
age and mileage (in most cases) it makes sense to replace it. For
preventitive purposes you should also replace the thermostat,
otterstadt switch and seal, belts, and idler pulley bearings. Yes, the
price of all these parts adds up but what does a tow cost? And you
will still have to replace the parts. If you want to have a reliable
car that you can have confidence in you need to know that all of these
parts are good and not near the end of their service life. BTW if you
take out the radiator I am willing to bet it is green around the
edges! You should consider replacing it too. Gee, this can get
expensive! I replaced my water pump at 3,000 miles and there was
evidence of seeping from the weep hole. Mileage isn't everything,
sitting long periods of time takes it's toll on the seal (corrosion).
David Teitelbaum
vin 1075
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, id <ionicdesign@xxxx> wrote:
> I am about to do all of the hoses on my car and i need your help. My
water pump is
> working and not leaking and i have 52,000 miles on my car. I have
been told to replace
> it but that is where i need your help. I want to know if you still
have your original
> pump and how many miles are on your car so i can decide if i should
just buy a new pump.
>
> I created a poll so i can see the failure rate of the pump by how
many miles are on your
> car.
>
> Thanks for your help
> Mark
> 6683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 17:24:52 +0000
From: "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Door Lock Solenoids
Snag some copper wire & rewind the solenoids. I have, & activity was
restored. A bit time consuming, but quite inexpensive. Drive Stainless
Robert VIN 6924 Sp tag AgBULIT
From: Raine Moreno <raine-moreno@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Door Lock Solenoids
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2003 20:19:16 -0800 (PST)
ok...do you other guys have to mash on your Door lock switch to get it to
work? I didnt think that was "normal" or working as intended...So along
with having to tear down the door to fix my window problems, i figued i
would investigate why the resistance of the door lock switch, also my remote
control unit will lock both doors but will not Unlock the drivers side door,
i figured (after inspection of the door mechanics) that the solenoid is worn
out and needing to be replaced...when engaged it barely moved almost like
the arm moves out and then back in....Just enough to move the pieces of the
contact plate to lock the doors..it doesnt seem like it should be working
like that. Have any of you had experienced that? I have not taken out the
solenoid and inspected it yet, but i have been reading about some similar
instances and wonder as well, if anyone has had thier solenoids "rewound" to
give them back thier strength. I guess old age and or a combination of the
old stock door lock module weakend the solenoids. Just wanted to know so i
could possibly save 150 Bucks for a new solenoid.
any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!
Raine M.
Vin # 1096
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 09:36:25 -0800
From: "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: deloreans do float...
so far I have done a complete inspection of the underside and checked the CV
boots (slid them off and found no water added some CV grease and
re-clamped), checked all electrical connections, i am replacing the front
crumple tubes (damaged), drained oil and replaced, I have a friend with a
carpet machine who is comming to do the carpets (i didnt think about the
mold). I dried outh the cooling fan motors and blew them out (there wasnt
much there), trans gear oil was ok, I am changing the wheel bearings soon
anyway (after the head gaskets), I guess we'll see...
I have flooded a few jeeps and do the same procedure for them too...
Darkstar
-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: March 11, 2003 7:33 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: deloreans do float...
Most of the damage caused by deep water won't be noticed for a while.
You should remove all of the carpets and dry completly to eliminate
any mildew. You should regrease EVERYTHING under the car. Inspect the
C/V joints or better yet regrease them too. Make sure no water is
trapped inside the frame like inside the crumple tubes and the engine
mounts. Clean all of the grounding points. Expect things to go bad
like the horns, cooling fan motors, and starter. This won't happen
soon so you won't connect the flooding with the failures but it will
happen. Change the engine oil and trans fluid too. Any wiring plugs
that where low enough to get wet should be opened, cleaned and
reseated. Ditto for any bulbs like the front parking lights and
directionals and side markers. You might want to consider making an
insurance claim for this if you have the coverage (in that case call
the broker for an adjuster before doing ANYTHING). The sooner you get
to it the less damage and corrosion there will be. Treat this as
seriously as you can as this will cause a lot of damage. It could also
cause the wheel bearings to die prematurely because the grease got
washed out. Flooding can do a lot of damage but it is invisible and
doesn't happen quickly like a fire.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Darkstar" <darkstarmedia@xxxx> wrote:
> well I thought that I would relate a story. a few weeks ago in
calif. we had
> a big rain storm. on my way back to work I hit some slow moving
cars and
> was rather pissed cause I was late. well I noticed the small puddle was
> getting deeper and deeper and soon found the reason for traffic... a
river
> had formed running across the road. cause it was too late to stop and I
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 16:08:10 -0800
From: "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake fluid Again
Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one has any castrol. I asked the guy
at napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that they don't have it listed. He
then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot 4. I said good question and
I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the fluid is so regulated that there
really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what is so special about it?
Thanks in advance....again.....................Jason #5903
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 00:56:21 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Fuse box...
Hey List,
There is a project I am working on and I need to know if anyone knows of
a fuse box that has the fuses that are next to each other side by side the
exact distance apart from the original DeLorean fuse box? If anyone has the
newer style Zilla Remote Receiver, they know about the printed circuit board
that is in there that goes in the fuse box that takes the place of 2 fuses.
The project I am working on requires this printed circuit board to go inside
a different fuse box, but I need to find a fuse box that will enable this
printed circuit board to fit in there. Anyone have any ideas? I just need
it to have those 2 slots, if it has more, thats ok but it can't be too large
since there isn't that much space in the electrical compartment for it.
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 14:00:02 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Tatoo
Now I've seen it all. A DeLorean tattoo.
http://www.steinerklaus.de/dmc/dcd2002/Seiten/Dsc01590.htm
The photo above is also on Klaus's site.
Scott Mueller
002981
RNDOLA
-----Original Message-----
From: klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:klaus.steiner@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 3:01 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re:[DML]Coolant hose replacement
Adam,
you can cover the coolant hoses with stainless steel flex-hoses available in
every racing-shop. So the belts can't cut the hoses. See my car:
www.steinerklaus.de/dmc/dcd2002/Seiten/Dsc01591.htm
Klaus and 05980
all hoses from silicone and ss-covered
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 14:33:29 -0800
From: "Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Back to The Future Replicas
Hey, Guys
Thought I would forward this. First I have heard of it.
----- Original Message -----
From: diecastmuscle.com - Announce
To: ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 12:31 PM
Subject: Back to The Future Replicas
Hello Everyone!
website: http://www.diecastmuscle.com/
Be sure to stop by the auction page on our site to check out the latest round of distressed items.
There have been a number of Deleroen and Back to the Futurediecast replica announcements recently. You can view these items by Clicking Here
Sunstar will be releasing 1/18 scale diecast replicas of the cars from Parts one and three of ther movie to go along with their Part 2 replica. We should be seeing these sometime this summer. All of the Sun Star Delorean replicas are priced at $27.50 each
#SS2711 1981 DeLorean Back To The Future Part I Sorry no pictures yet
#SS2712 1981 DeLorean Back To The Future Part III Sorry no pictures yet
And of course the first release, which we currently have a few in stock, with more enroute to us shortly.
#SS2710 1981 DeLorean Back to the Future Part II
We also have the stock and Gold DeLoreans available to ship.
#SS2701 1981 DeLorean DMC12 Coupe Stainless Steel
#SS2702 1983 DeLorean DMC12 Gold Plated American Express
In addition, Welly has announced 1/24 scale diecast replicas of the Delorean and Back to the Future cars. Release is expected in the late spring. Price is $15 each. Pictures on the website.
#W2442 1981 DeLorean DMC12 Coupe Stainless Steel
#W2443 1981 DeLorean Back to the Future Part I
#W2441 1981 DeLorean Back to the Future Part II
#W2444 1981 DeLorean Back to the Future III
And that does it for this time.
Thanks,
Dave and Mark
----
MTR Enterprises
PO Box 617
Stevensville MI 49127
email: mtr@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
web: http://www.diecastmuscle.com/
toll free phone:1-888-429-3958
international:269-983-0751
if you do not want these updates, reply to this message with remove in
the subject.
l>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 19:49:11 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
I just recently had my water pump replaced by Rob - PJ Grady. The "original"
hoses at the water pump and intake manifold was "seeping" antifreeze at
times, even after tighten the hose clamps. Since the hose were to be
replaced, I figured the water pump should be also be replaced at the same
time, including thermostat and all other related items. So, it was out with
the old water pump and in with the new one, as preventive maintenance.
There was really nothing wrong with the water pump, even though it had over
96,000 miles and still working well. For all I know it may last another
96,000 miles? The original water pump has been in service since 1981 and I
was going to wait for "old age" or "wear" to set in and to give up on me
while I am on the road. I hope the new water pump will last as long or
longer then the old one.
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 17:58:45 -0600
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
This is exactly what i plan on doing but i wanted to see how many cars are still running
on the original pump and how many miles they have on the car. I know this is not
scientific but it does let me kind of know what most owners have done so far. Money is
tight thats why i wanted to see about not doing the pump.
this is what i plan on doing....
complete tune up
vacuum hoses
vacuum switch on coolant pipe under intake manifold
all coolant hoses
new coolant clamps
heater hoses
thermostat
otterstadt switch and seal
belts
water pump
radiator cap
overflow bottle (still original and brittle)
air bleeder kit
hover conversion (just checking to see if anybody reads this)
Mark
6683
David Teitelbaum wrote:
> The main reason for replacement of the water pump at the time you have
> the top of the engine all apart is because of all the work it takes to
> get there. (Same logic goes for doing a tune-up at the same time.There
> may still be some life left in the old water pump but because of the
> age and mileage (in most cases) it makes sense to replace it. For
> preventitive purposes you should also replace the thermostat,
> otterstadt switch and seal, belts, and idler pulley bearings. Yes, the
> price of all these parts adds up but what does a tow cost? And you
> will still have to replace the parts. If you want to have a reliable
> car that you can have confidence in you need to know that all of these
> parts are good and not near the end of their service life. BTW if you
> take out the radiator I am willing to bet it is green around the
> edges! You should consider replacing it too. Gee, this can get
> expensive! I replaced my water pump at 3,000 miles and there was
> evidence of seeping from the weep hole. Mileage isn't everything,
> sitting long periods of time takes it's toll on the seal (corrosion).
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 1075
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 10:20:43 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: WATER PUMP POLL
Mark, Life of the pump will vary as to driving conditions, care taken with
the car and how often the coolant was changed. I replaced mine in11004 at
about 52,000 miles.
I have a complete kit on the web site.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< I am about to do all of the hoses on my car and i need your help. My water
pump is
working and not leaking and i have 52,000 miles on my car. I have been told
to replace
it but that is where i need your help. I want to know if you still have your
original
pump and how many miles are on your car so i can decide if i should just buy
a new pump.
I created a poll so i can see the failure rate of the pump by how many miles
are on your
car.
Thanks for your help
Mark
6683
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 21:23:45 -0700
From: Mark Noeltner <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid Again
Actually, you can have quite a bit of variance between DOT 4 fluids. They
don't actually regulate what the fluid is made out of, just that it meets
certain requirements when tested.
Castrol GT LMA is supposed to be easier on the type of rubber that Girling
uses for seals in it's master cylinders and calipers. I haven't done any
sort of testing on that, but I've known enough British car owners who
refuse to use anything else due to problems that they've had, that I'm not
going to argue. Plus, the LMA in the name stands for Low Moisture
Absorbtion. The Castrol fluid tends to absorb less water than almost any
other fluid out there. This means that it should cause a lot less rust on
the interior of your braking system.
From a British Car FAQ I found in a search:
"2. Why can’t I use generic brake fluid in my British car?
British brake & clutch systems use natural rubber components which are only
compatible with vegetable based brake fluid. American brake & clutch
systems use synthetic rubber components which are only compatible with
mineral based brake fluid. The only vegetable based brake fluid commonly
available in the US is CASTROL GT LMA. Use of improper fluids or mixing of
fluids can lead to complete failure of brake and clutch hydraulics. Use of
any fluid other than CASTROL GT LMA violates all warranty on
brake/hydraulic parts"
You can buy Castrol GT LMA here: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/ Plus,
I'm sure that many other online suppliers handle it. I know Pep Boys has a
better price at their stores than Pegasus has online, but if you can't find
it locally, then you may have to go for it.
Here is an interesting link on Castrol GT LMA and British cars.
http://www.importautoberdoo.com/brake.html
Mark N
VIN 6820
At 04:08 PM 3/12/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one has any
castrol. I asked the guy
>at napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that they
don't have it listed. He
>then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot 4. I
said good question and
>I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the fluid
is so regulated that there
>really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what is so
special about it?
>
> Thanks in
advance....again.....................Jason #5903
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 00:23:43 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid Again
As I understand it, Castrol is **most** compatible with the natural
rubber (rather than synthetic rubber) seals used on the DeLorean (and
other European cars). I'm not sure what the long term difference,
i.e. will the brake master last 10 years instead of 8? etc. But
that's the story.
Castrol is still very available, but the big chains for some reason
don't carry it. Probably lower margin. Look at your smaller
independent stores or foreign car parts specialists.
Most important thing is to change it often. Every two years is a
minimum. I'd do yearly if you drive the car in wet weather. Important
to note that the DMC fluid reservoir is vented to air, whereas US
cars are vented into a rubber bladder. Euro car makers (BMW etc)
recommend fluid changes more often to get rid of the moisture that
creaps in.
Another story you will hear is that changing the fluid after a very
long interval is likely to cause leaks to start, IMO that's true at
least in the clutch system.
Dave Swingle < --has changed out a lot of muddy brake fluid - 18
years is NOT an acceptable interval.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one
has any castrol. I asked the guy
> at napa
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2003 20:22:02 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Brake fluid Again
Jason
Girling uses seals that contain more natural rubber than
domestic brake manufacturers. The Castrol brake fluid
is kinder to the seals than other brands. If you change
fluids from Castrol to something else, you can pretty
much expect to have to rebuild master and slave cylinders
and the calipers within a couple of years. This is not
strictly a DeLorean issue. Lotuses have the same problems
with brake fluids.
I have noticed that GTLMA seems to have been withdrawn
from the US market. There is a local Castrol dealer
in Rochester who can't order GTLMA anymore. If you find
some in a shop somewhere, buy all you can. If you don't
want to, call me and I'll buy it...
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Rowe [mailto:rowejj@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2003 6:08 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Brake fluid Again
Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one has any
castrol. I asked the guy
at napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that they don't
have it listed. He
then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot 4. I said
good question and
I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the fluid is
so regulated that there
really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what is so
special about it?
Thanks in
advance....again.....................Jason #5903
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 03:23:01 -0000
From: "outatym2001" <markman660@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid Again
Hi again Jason and the List.
In answer to your question, "So why does it have to be Castrol?"
It doesn't.
Just pick what ever is DOT4 and is readily available in your
area.
Several Pacific Northwest DeLorean Club members (www.pndc.org)
have made the switch to 'Valvoline Syn Power High Performance
Synthetic Brake Fluid' about $2.79 for 12 oz bottle. Buy at least 24
oz to flush entire system.
You can go to www.howstuffworks.com and learn more about brake
fluid. Type 'brake fluid' in the search box. It states, "The three
main types of brake fluid now available are DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.
DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol based fluids, and DOT5 is silicon based.
The main difference is that DOT3 and DOT4 absorb water while DOT5
doesn't." Funny thing is they don't mention anything about synthetic
brake fluids like synthetic engine oil doesn't absorb water either.
Look at www.ogracing.com and there you will see the ATE Brake
Fluid I use. Price $7.25 per litre. Don't use this stuff. It's
dark blue and you can't see through it in the fluid reservoir.
I've gone absolutely mad at using the most expensive fluids I
could find locally. My engine oil is synthetic AMSOIL $8 a quart.
Manual transmission fluid is synthetic REDLINE MTL (red in color) $8
a quart. Brake fluid is described above.
I dare to be different. Now I'm out of money. Learn from my
mistakes. Don't blow too much money on something you can't afford.
My DeLorean engine is like FRANKENSTEIN. Pieced together from
several different manufacturers. It's a 3.0 liter developing approx.
150 to a 160 hp. All done by a highly paid mechanic. Paid by me!
More on this later.
Mark R. Vanyo VIN #02261
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one has any
castrol. I asked the guy at napa if he could order some for me so he
looked and said that they don't have it listed. He then asked me why
it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot 4. I said good
question and I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He
said that the fluid is so regulated that there really can't be much
difference between all of the brands. So what is so special about it?
Thanks in advance....again.....................Jason #5903
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:03:20 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake fluid Again
I am not a chemist. I can only tell you from experience ALL of the
people that work on british cars using Lucas-Girling say that because
of the rubber that is used for the seals in the brake system the only
recomended fluid is Castrol GTLMA. While it is true that ALL DOT 4
fluids must pass the smae testing it does not mean they are all made
the same. Keep looking for it and if you can't find it I am sure you
can order it from someone. Try a shop that works on Jaguars, they
should have some or be able to tell you where to get it. Any large
store that has the Castrol line of products should be able to get it
for you, it isn't that special. You could also try the Castrol
website, they should be able to tell you where you can get some.
Sometimes you just don't argue with experience. BTW keep some in a
small bottle on a shelf so you can top off the system if you ever need
a little. The bottle must be kept tightly closed to avoid moisture
contamination. The brake fluid is supposed to be changed every 2
years. (and clutch fluid). You could just use the Castrol in all of
your cars, it is a very good brake fluid. In may respects it is even
better than DOT 5 (silicone).
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jason Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
> Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one
has any castrol. I asked the guy
> at napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that
they don't have it listed. He
> then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot
4. I said good question and
> I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the
fluid is so regulated that there
> really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what
is so special about it?
>
> Thanks in
advance....again.....................Jason #5903
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 10:10:24 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake fluid Again
James, I normally get it at Pep Boys. If they don't have it on the shelf they
normally pick it up at one of the local warehouses.
It's a good high quality grade.
John Hervey
<< Well, I've went to all the local parts stores and no one has any
castrol. I asked the guy
at Napa if he could order some for me so he looked and said that they don't
have it listed. He
then asked me why it has to be castrol dot 4 and not any other dot 4. I said
good question and
I'll find out. So why does it have to be Castrol? He said that the fluid is
so regulated that there
really can't be much difference between all of the brands. So what is so
special about it?
Thanks in
advance....again.....................Jason #5903
>>
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