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There are 12 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. age bracket poll
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
3. RE: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: My FIRST proper questions!
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Brake Lights (again)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
6. Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
7. Re: Cleaning Stainless.
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
8. Re: plug on gearbox (was: My FIRST proper questions!)
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: age bracket poll
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. The Ultimate Driver's Car
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Brake Lights (again)
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
12. Re: My FIRST proper questions!
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 10:58:39 -0500
From: "marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: age bracket poll
Too bad only 67 votes were cast on the age bracket poll. But it was interesting to see that 50.75% are under 30 years of age and driving the dream.
Marvin Stein
#4239
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 11:39:01 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
Why not switch the CIS intake manifold, and install the PRV carb manifold w/
triple carbs from the Renault Alpine?
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 11:15:38 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
Yes, my comment was specific to modification of the PRV.. The quote
below was "improvements to the PRV". Maybe I should have been more
clear and said Modifications to the PRV. Sorry!
As a result of my time looking to modify the PRV, I am now working on a
conversion... If that tells you anything!
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Strickland [mailto:ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2001 2:56 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: fuel injector / HP Gains
I think your numbers are only applicable if you're trying to update the
PRV. Where's Darryl Tinnerstet? He has over 300 HP, and I'm sure he
spent a lot less than $13K. And the guy with the 4.3L Vortec I'm sure
is
under $80/Hp. This brings us back to the price/performance index.
Time
to check the archives...
1537
On Thu, 1 Nov 2001 10:55:25 -0500 "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> Too bad cost for performance is not linear!
>
> In my investigations for performance improvements to the PRV, the
> price
> starts to jump when you get around the 200-225HP area. Much more
> than
> $80 per Horse.
>
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 20:19:01 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My FIRST proper questions!
Hi Scott - and everyone else who answered,
It took a lot of head scratching but did indeed turn out to be a jammed plunger in the distributor - once freed up the engine ran as sweet as the day it left the factory. No hot start problem, and we did check the frequency valve, temperature sensor, cold start valve and control pressure regulator. All were working fine. Basically the only way we could start the car was with the CPR plug on the CS valve, but as soon as the engine was revved, it would stall.
We weren't sure the problem wasn't electrical (and evidence of IDC connectors on the distributor governor cabling suggests we weren't the first!) so I kept a close eye on everything in the relay compartment and I'm happy to report everything worked fine. This car has such a low mileage, it has none of the updates, and guess what? When we did get it running we let it run hot to bleed the coolant, and bugger me if the fan fail light didn't work! on came the right fan, and the left fan remained stubbornly still, and *plink* - my fan fail light was on.....
Now electrical problems I can handle :-)
Thanks again
Martin
S CAGLE wrote:
>
> Martin;
>
> I had a very similar problem when I got mine up and running (it had sat for 10 years or so). It turned out to be the control pressure regulator (sits on the drivers side of the engine, bolted to the side. Has fuel lines running to it, and a rubber vent hose hanging off the side) If I remember what Rob Grady told me about it, this is a part of the fuel system that is usually overlooked when cleaning out the systems, and can have just as much corrosion in it as any other part. On another note, when I had to repeatedly do restarts on my car, and killed my battery as you had, I encountered another problem; I burnt out the fuse for the fuel pump, it melted right through the holder. Make sure you watch for any fuse over heats. Hope this helps!!
>
> Scott
> 16738
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 13:20:04 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Lights (again)
From: <jwit6@xxxxxx>
> The green wire at the stop light switch under the dash should have 12V on
it
> all the time, independent of the ign switch position.
Not necessarily. There are variations in the brake light wiring. Some cars
have the brake light switch hot all the time like Jim said, and others are
only hot when the ignition is on.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:00:41 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: front brake rotor replacement
From: <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
<snip>
> As an aside to Walt, I read the follow-on message with more
> information about his pulsation, and I will offer the following idea.
> The fore/aft location of the front suspension lower control arm is set
> by the connection with the front anti-sway bar. If there is any wear
> or damage to the components in this connection, the alignment of the
> front wheels becomes "variable" depending on loading conditions on the
> wheel.
<snip>
I have thought a lot about this. When I put lowered front springs on my
car, I had this all apart. Even though I had new bushings to put on the
car, I re-used the old ones for now. They still looked just like the new
ones. I want to replace the lower control arms when someone finally makes a
good reproduction. I suppose either John Hervey or PJ Grady has something
by now. Immediately after having my alignment redone, the pulsation almost
stopped completely. As the new front springs settled, the alignment went
off. It is surprising how a small error in wheel alignment will worsen a
warped-rotor problem. But before I have the wheels realigned, I want to
replace my other steering rack boot.
And now I discovered a coolant leak somewhere near the fuel tank. I hope it
is just a loose hose clamp. If I did nothing but work on this car
full-time, I
might get caught up in a month or so. Ugh!
From: "Buckner, William" <William.Buckner@xxxxxxxxxx>
> I suggest replacement of the rotors with some
> from the premium suppliers of Delorean parts.
I hear you, but -- Are the brake rotors that the vendors sell NOS or are
they having new ones made? I would be worried that we are taking a gamble
with NOS. I have Powerstop cross-drilled rotors to put on the front of my
D. Unfortunately, they went out of production before I could get matching
rear rotors, too. If anyone still wants cross-drilled ones only for the
front, they might still have a few left in stock.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:32:51 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Cleaning Stainless.
Hi Robert,
I know exactly what you are talking about. I recently bought a car-wash
called DURA-WASH. It works absolutely great on stainless steel leaving it
much brighter than anything else I have used. The product claims you don't
have to dry it off and it wont spot but dry it off anyway if you want a good
shine. I see this product on TV infomercials but you can probably get it at
most auto stores.
hope this helps
David
6286
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 21:44:42 +0100
From: Jan van de Wouw <Jan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: plug on gearbox (was: My FIRST proper questions!)
On 02-11-2001 17:12, Dave Swingle wrote in DMC News:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
>> On the very front end tip of the gearbox (manual) there's a cap the
>> size of a bottle top which is loose but won't come out. It looks as
>> if someone's tried to bond it back in using JB Weld or similar -
>> can anyone tell me what this thing is and what we need to do
>> about it?
> Uh Oh. There is not supposed to be anything there.
Couldn't this be the location for the speedo-pickup in the original
configuration (=front-engined, FWD-car) of the gearbox?
I remembered reading something like that, so I checked the archives and in
message# 17697, dated Dave Swingle (yes, you!) wrote:
> There is a location for a mechanical speedo take-off on the
> manual transmission, but it is in the area of the ring gear.
> Since the ring gear was flipped over in the transition from front
> to rear drive application, the back side of the ring gear is up
> against the take-off point. Therefore, the pick-up point is plugged
> in the DMC application.
I remembered, because it was one of my own questions that triggered that
particular thread. I was frustrated about the Angle-Drive system, since I
had to fix it then. I'm even more frustrated now, because within 6 months of
this +$300,- repair the speedo has failde again. I'm not sure how it's
failed yet; I'm going to figure that out this weekend.
Greetings,
JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different... Using a Mac...
Living the Dream... Driving a DeLorean...
#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 15:45:51 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: age bracket poll
> Too bad only 67 votes were cast on the age bracket poll. But it was
interesting
> to see that 50.75% are under 30 years of age and driving the dream.
I have to say, that unfortunately, this poll reflects more the age of savvy
people with internet access, and willingness to fill out an online survey,
than it does actual Delorean ownership. I'm sure there are a lot of "old
guard" Delorean owners that don't know that the DML exists.
-Hank #1619.
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 15:45:42 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: The Ultimate Driver's Car
Someone just showed me a copy of the latest "Betty's Attic" catalogue.
On page 46 they appear to feature the 1:18 SunStar DeLorean (although
the manufacturer is not mentioned). While the picture, price, and
earliest shipping date are nothing special, the catalogue write-up is
outstanding. It gushes over the DeLorean like a teenager who wants one
badly. Here is an excerpt:
Often called the ultimate driver's car, the
Delorean was designed to be low
maintenance, comfortable, easy to maneuver
and unlike anything else on the road. With its
sleek stainless steel exterior, distinctive
gull-wing doors and futuristic styling, the
DMC-12 still commands the attention of
passers-by and a hefty re-sale value for
collectors. Our metal die cast replica of this
classic features a stainless steel finish,
opening front trunk lid, opening gull-wing
doors . . .
I couldn't be more impressed with that blurb if I'd written it myself.
Ultimate driver's car! Low maintenance! Hefty resale value! I love
it!
Who writes this stuff? Some DML subscriber, perhaps?
- Mike Substelny
(wishing I had though up that "ultimate driver's car" phrase)
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 02 Nov 2001 22:27:24 -0000
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Lights (again)
Interesting thing I found on my car #6147. Although the single green
wire to the brake switch is powered all the time, under the dash in
the same area as the switch, is another spade connector with 2 green
wires attached that is switched. It was taped up out of the way with
what appears to be factory red tape.
Jim
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> From: <jwit6@xxxx>
> > The green wire at the stop light switch under the dash should
have 12V on
> it
> > all the time, independent of the ign switch position.
>
> Not necessarily. There are variations in the brake light wiring.
Some cars
> have the brake light switch hot all the time like Jim said, and
others are
> only hot when the ignition is on.
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2001 16:43:14 -0600
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: My FIRST proper questions!
There's an o-ring inserted into the orfice the idle motor tube goes into.
Removing this tube is necessary every time the intake manifolds are removed,
which is a normal part of maintainance. Epoxying the tube into the orfice
sounds like a bad idea. Just replace the o-ring.
Bruce Benson
> the problem was the brass pipe that goes from the idle speed motor to the
> driver's side of the lower air meter housing. it wasn't in properly and
gave
> me a massive vacuum leak. i had to put it in again and i sealed it with
some
> epoxy to make double sure it was tight. after some tweaking of the
fuel/air
> mixture, it ran again!
>
> Andy
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