dmcnews-digest V3 #464
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dmcnews-digest V3 #464



Title: dmcnews-digest V3 #464

dmcnews-digest        Tuesday, January 5 1999        Volume 03 : Number 464



       In this issue:
        DML: Fwd: Dummies DeLorean Stuff I found..
        Re: DML: More ? on Frozen Throttle cable
        DML: Another D in video game
        Re: DML: paint removel
        Re: DML: paint removel
        DML: HELP!
        Re: DML: Rebuilding Auto Trans Governor
        DML: Where Can I Find?
        Re: DML: Legend Turbo setup
        DML: Delorean theft
        Re: DML: Re: Theft prevention
        Re: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC
        Re: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC
        DML: Stainless Solutions
        DML: Horns
        Re: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC
        DML: RE: heater motors (was "here's an easy question")
        Re: DML: HELP! [long]
        DML: RE: 4x6 speakers (was: CORRECTION)
        Re: DML: Where Can I Find?
        Re: DML: paint removel
        DML: Matlock Episode
        Don't damn the automatics (was: Re: DML: HELP! [long])
        Re: DML: RE: 4x6 speakers (was: CORRECTION)
        Re: Don't damn the automatics (was: Re: DML: HELP! [long])
        DML: Humor- yet another misconception about DeLoreans...
        Re: DML: Stainless Solutions
        DML: Intercoolers
        DML: Re: RE: heater motors (was "here's an easy question")

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 15:47:59 -0800
From: dmcguy <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Fwd: Dummies DeLorean Stuff I found..

Hello List,
 This was sent to me from a friend so I thought I'd pass it on to
everyone, enjoy.
- -John Heflin


>
>
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: Dummies Daily - Web After Five [DID YOU BUY A CAR FROM THAT MAN? -
>      01/04/99]
> Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 04:02:19 PST
> From: Dummies Daily <dummiesdaily@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: ddafterfive@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> ****************************************************************
> DUMMIES DAILY(tm) Web After Five Tip
> January 4th, 1999
> ****************************************************************
>
> TIP: DID YOU BUY A CAR FROM THAT MAN?
>
> January 4th, 1999
>
> Remember the DeLorean--the sports car with the European styling and
> stainless steel body that didn't quite catch on with the buying public
> but enjoyed periodic nostalgic revival in the "Back to the Future"
> movie series? Like most cult objects, the DeLorean has a huge Web
> following, as well as its own Web ring. Our two favorite sites? For
> background information and pictures (including a cool animation from
> one of the aforementioned films), we recommend Matt's DeLorean Page at
>
> http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/daytona/129/
>
> And if you own--or would like to own--one of these now-treasured
> classics, you should pay at least one visit to the DeLorean Motor
> Company's home page at
>
> http://www.usadmc.com
>
> DeLoreans are not cheap, by the way--they can run as high as
> $27,000--but at least you know they won't rust.
>
> --This tip contributed by Mark Scapicchio
>
> ****************************************************************



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 16:11:44 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: More ? on Frozen Throttle cable

On Sun, 3 Jan 1999, Jeff Wiltzius wrote:

> 1. Is it REALLY necessary for me to start my D and run it for 10 minutes
> every week? The previous owner said it was a good thing to do but what are
> your opinions on this? Especially cold climate dwellers?

Yeah, you ought to do this.  If you don't, you run the risk of fuel
scrubbery.  As the gas sits in the fuel system it eats away at the
materials.  This causes your fuel system components to deteriorate and,
when you do run the car, all the goop and stale gas gets flushed into the
engine, this is very bad and makes it not run.  It is better to start the
car every week than to not do it and risk a fuel system overhaul, even
though you can probably get away with missing a week here and there, don't
let it sit all winter for example.  This will also help keep your battery
charged, although if your car will be in storage or something similar, you
ought to disconnect it when not in use.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 16:56:19 -0800
From: "Ryan Bennett" <rpbennet@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Another D in video game

This may be a bit obscure, but I got a good chuckle from it.

Tom Clancy's software company Red Storm Entertainment makes a very popular
game for PC called Rainbow 6. PC Computing magazine made an add-on level
for
R6, which features a DeLorean as the centerpeice.

Thought it was interesting.

Regards,

Ryan Bennett
#01085

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 20:24:09 EST
From: KKoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: paint removel

to strip a delorean you can use some of the chemical strippers.  I have
done
it on my jaguar and its not too bad
but  do not let it touch any plastic or other parts'
since the newer paints are technically plastics (acrylics) the removers
will
damage them.
It will leave the stainless less than lusterous but you just need to do
what
the factory did use a flap wheel
works well.
they are available (one place that still makes them is in Indianapolis
it is a lot of work but do it right and it will look like new.

Ken

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 18:15:21 -0800
From: "SweatyEddy" <swetyedy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: paint removel

I stripped mine Jasco paint remover (dimethyl chloride is the active
ingredient). The finish underneath was fine, I used scotchbrite pads from
Delorean Motor Center to clean up rough spots.  Beware though that some
auto
paint people believe that the stainless must first be acid etched before
the
paint will stick. If you are a victim of this wisdom you may have your
work
cut out for you.
Good Luck,
 -SweatyEddy #6564

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 1999 8:08 PM
Subject: Re: DML: paint removel


>Short of paint remover and sand paper which will not leave the Stainless
>Steel looking Factory,  The only solution I could think of is to remove
>all
>your Stainless Steel panels and send them to someone who can dip the
>entire
>part for stripping.  Some people who come to mind:
>
>1) Furniture strippers, some of these people have tanks big enough for
>entire tables.
>2) Industrial painters, particularly the people who paint bridge parts.
>They in turn
>    sometimes have to remove a bad paint job.
>3) Platers, these people sometimes have to dip entire parts for aircraft
>landing for
>    stripping and cleaning.
>
>This is a tough task, get your hands on a recent edition of the "Thomas
>Register" and look for strippers in there close to you vicinity.  The
>"Thomas Regional Director" is a good starting point also.
>
>Paul Gress
>Vin 10193
>
>kevin & ann miller wrote:
>
>>  I'm new to the Delorean world as I just purchased an 81 with the  vin
>> #4556. I am in the process of removing the paint as it is painted red.
>> My problem is how to make the stainless look the way it did when it was
>> new?
>>   Does anybody have any ideas?
>>      Thanks for any help
>>
>
> Send postings to "dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx"
> Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html
> Thank you!
>
>


- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------

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------------------------------

Date: 04 Jan 1999 14:37:42 -0500
From: "E. Brandon" <ebrandon@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: HELP!

TO:DMCNEWS@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

I have waited for this day since 1981, My dad finally gave me his
Delorean! He
is the original owner and everything on the car is original. Only thing
is,
the car has been sitting in a barn for almost 10 years. I need to do some
major restoration. Where should I start? Should I buy an old (not running)
Delorean and use it for parts, or should I order all my parts from Texas?
My
dad thinks he has some mechanic that can work on the car. I would rather
have
the car transported to Houston and let them give me an estimate. Since the
title is still in his name I will probably have to listen to him, so where
should I start?

Regards,
Kirk Brandon
Internal Control Office 540 A
(EBRANDON@xxxxxxxx)-Ext.56992

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 14:03:41 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Rebuilding Auto Trans Governor

I have offered several times to take a look at a broken unit.  I have a
5 speed, so I have never even seen the unit.

Also, while waiting for my car one at PJGrady, I was reading through
some old Delorean World Mags that were there, and there was a article in
one of the magazines with a modification designed to protect the
governor from damage.  I did not read the detail because I wanted to
read some other articles, but the basic idea seemed correct. 

a DOA member may be able to copy the article for you.


Duke wrote:
>
> I was wondering if anyone has had successful experience in rebuilding =
> the auto trans governor for the autos.  If so, could you please email me =
> privately.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Duke

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 14:16:37 EST
From: DMCKitty@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Where Can I Find?

Where can I find a model of a DeLorean?

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 14:30:40 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Legend Turbo setup

I think #502 may have been the only complete and running Legend, but it
was not the only one built.  Last time I was at PJ Grady, Rob still had
his, and there was a customer's car there (in the 500 vintage vin) that
Rob said was a earlier legend prototype.

As others have already stated, Rob Grady has one of the later Legend
Prototype cars.  I took a close look at the engine, and although the
Island Turbo is probably the "closest" reproduction of the Legend, it is
by no means the same.  I think the earlier versions of the Legend Turbo
were the similar to the current Island Turbo.

The stock airbox is replaced with a air plenum that wraps around the top
of the motor and goes down to the sides of the motor, right behind the
exhaust manifold where the turbo is attached.  The rear quarter windows
were replaced with air scoops that fed the turbos (I think the inter
coolers were between the scoops and the turbo).  On this legend design,
the turbos are before the air flow meter.. I have no idea where the got
Vacuum from, for the systems that require it.

According to the information I have collected, there were other
modifications made to the legend motor.  The fuel injection system was
changed, compression was lowered, and forged pistons were used (among
other modifications)

On the Island Turbo setup (which I have), the elbows between the air
flow meter, and intake are removed, and the turbo plumbing is installed
there.  The turbos are after the air flow meter, and the restrictive
stock airbox is retained.

If Bob Lee is still on the list, I am sure he can give us accurate
answers.  I have a old note from him with some of the interesting
details of the Legend setup.  Conversations with Rob Grady have also
produced some interesting information on the Legend setup.

I am sure that someone with time and money could re-produce the legend.
The information is out there.  Who purchased the documentation at the
Legend auction??  I will also repeat that I think less expensive
modifications can be made from other european PRV-6 cars, I just don't
have the resources to do it at this time.


"Martin Gutkowski (UK)" wrote:
>
> The Island turbo setup is the closest kit to the legend prototype - notice
> singular there. #502 is the car with the legend engine in it and it
> resides
> with Steve Wynne. There is only ONE such engine.
>
> The prototype has no air filter, and also has twin intercoolers. Both
> differences from the Island setup. I believe the Island setup uses the
> same
> IHI turbos.
>
> The crucial difference is that the legend engine was totally rebuilt. It
> also
> has a clever active wastegate, varying boost pressure with rpms.
>
> (all the above gleaned from previous posts, DeLorean World, and a
> conversation with Steve a while ago)
>
> Martin

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 15:32:39 -0700
From: "Ace Underhill" <aceu@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Delorean theft

The best thing you can do to prevent damage/theft to the car is to not =
leave valuables such as CD cases/purses/shopping bags/cell phones in =
plain view of the cockpit.  Most thieves that intend to drive off with a =
car, target certain makes and models which are in high demand for ="">
stripping.  They do not bother with the Delorean because there is no =
open market (in their mind) for parts.  The other reason for stealing a =
car would be for joy riding, but the Delorean is a very high profile ="">
vehicle and is spotted very easily, so it is better for them to move on =
to a car that would blend in with the rest of the traffic for their fun. =
 I have parked in some very bad parts of major metropolitan cities and =
nobody bothers it.  The worst I have had happen is people spitting on my =
car, but this is very unusual and actually happened in the nicest parts =
of Phoenix and Scottsdale, not in the bad parts.  Most people love the =
car and respect it.  Just my experiences.

        -Ace Underhill-
        Vin: 2860
        AZ Lic: 8T8 MPH

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 17:54:01 EST
From: NJP548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Theft prevention

In a message dated 1/4/99 10:25:51 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:


<<Much harder!  The double latch, lock, and release set up is very complex
<<making it almost impossible to open the gullwing doors without a key.
If a
<<thief wants to get into a DeLorean he will need to smash a window.
 
I just wanted to add that when I bought my car about a year ago, I had to
replace the drivers side window because someone tried to break into the
car
and that was the only way to get into it.  Also it looks as if they used a
prybar or something because I have a bad dent on it and also a few smaller
dents all around the door so it looks like who ever tried to break into
the
car tried a lot of different things before he finally decided to just
break
the window and get it over with.  Also my brother's friend had a slim jim
and
he was trying to unlock his car to see if he could do it and I told him
to try
mine so I would know if it could be done or not and he couldn't even get
it, I
guess it was because that the windows that actually go down are like in
the
middle of the door so they can't get a good hold of the rod that controls
 the
door locks.

Later,
Nick
VIN#1852 

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 17:56:19 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC

On Sun, 3 Jan 1999, Marc Barth wrote:

I'm sure I won't have the only reply here, but...

> If I understand correctly there were three different hoods that evolved
> over the 3 years.  The first had some nicer lines than the latter hoods
> but required opening the trunk in order the fill the gas tank, right? 

The early hoods had creases and gas flaps to fill the tank.  Why the flap
was removed is a subject of some debate.  Some say that it was removed to
increase stiffness of the hood.  Some say that it was never supposed to be
there in the original design but was added to satisfy some potential legal
conditions.  When these vanished it was removed.  Some say it was just
removed because it wasn't as useful as they hoped.  Whatever it was, only
the early hoods had them.

As time went on, the creases vanished too leaving only a plain hood.  This
was determined to not be the perfect solution either, and eventually the
little logo was added to break up the flat expanse of hood.

Why these changes were made is a mystery to me.  In general, the '81s have
either gas flap and creases or only creases.  As far as I know there are
no hoods with flap and no creases, nor are there any hoods with logo and
creases (or logo and flap).  Of course I am frequently wrong. :} The '82s
tend to have the plain hoods, and the '83s have the logo.  But this is not
a hard-and-fast rule because the DeLorean didn't really have model years
in the traditional sense, they are really artificial designations.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 16:01:21 PST
From: "Adam Michael" <amichael10@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC

Wrong. The early '81s had the two creases and a gas flap, so opening the
hood was not necessary. The later '81 models had the two creases, but no
gas flap, so the hood needed to be opened to get at the gas tank. The
'82 and '83 models I believe were all the same. They didn't have the gas
flap, were all flat, and had the DeLorean emblem in the right-front
corner. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not sure about the
emblem being on all '82s and '83s because I have seen some cars without
the emblem, but I just assumed they removed it.

    Adam Michael
The DeLorean Corner: http://members.tripod.com/~DeLoreanDMC/index.html


>From: "Marc Barth" <d16y8@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC
>Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:57:14 PST
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>If I understand correctly there were three different hoods that evolved
>over the 3 years.  The first had some nicer lines than the latter hoods
>but required opening the trunk in order the fill the gas tank, right? 
>The second was a straight hood but didn't require the lifting of the
>trunk.  The final actually had "De Lorean" logo towards the front
>drivers side headlight.  Am I correct in these statements?  Did I miss
>any details especially regarding the third hood?  Also does anybody
know
>at what point these changes took place?  Does anybody know the
beginning
>and ending vin # for these changes?  Thanks for all the info.
>
>Marc
>d16y8@xxxxxxxxxxx
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 22:19:25 EST
From: JCox4001@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Stainless Solutions

DML'ers,

I stumbled into something that alot of you may be interested in.  I did
some
repair work on my louvres last weekend, with the help of a friend.  As it
turns out, this fella has the means to create a stainless steel brace,
which
would mount just underneath the outside perimeter or the louvre, which
would
reinforce the flimsey design, and look incredible when the louvres were
up.
He is interested in seeing how many folks would be interested, because he
can
do them all in one run, making the cost pretty reasonable
.  Maybe what I can do is get some photos when mine is done, and if
someone
could post them for me on their website, then everyone could see how it
looks.
In addition, he said that he could make the stainless steel bumper, and
door
sill inserts as well.  Let me know what you all think.
Jeff Cox
Memphis
VIN# 5705
IN2TIME

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 22:50:43 EST
From: JCox4001@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Horns

Lee and fellow DML'ers,

My low horn was the inoperable one, thus the "Nanny" impression.  I went
down
to Autozone, and they sell a high and a low in a set for $20.  They are
almost
exactly the same size as the OEM's.  They also sell individuals for $10
each,
but I didn't know if mixing them would make them sound worse, like maybe
Janice from F.R.I.E.N.D.S., so I bought the pair.  The ones sold in the
pair
are also somewhat heavier than the individuals that they offer.  The
drawback
is that they are bright red, and have this art deco chrome cover over the
bell.  They sound great, are twice as loud as the OEM's, and will scare
the
bejebers out of you.  Just the ticket!  Mounted in about 5 minutes, even
the
connectors are exactly the right size.  Highly recommended!
Jeff Cox
Memphis
VIN# 5705
IN2TIME

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 23:18:47 -0500
From: Paul Gress <pgress@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Changes over the three years at DMC

I have an early 82 (#10193) and it has the emblem.

Paul Gress

Adam Michael wrote:

> Wrong. The early '81s had the two creases and a gas flap, so opening the
> hood was not necessary. The later '81 models had the two creases, but no
> gas flap, so the hood needed to be opened to get at the gas tank. The
> '82 and '83 models I believe were all the same. They didn't have the gas
> flap, were all flat, and had the DeLorean emblem in the right-front
> corner. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm not sure about the
> emblem being on all '82s and '83s because I have seen some cars without
> the emblem, but I just assumed they removed it.
>
>     Adam Michael
> The DeLorean Corner: http://members.tripod.com/~DeLoreanDMC/index.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 21:16:24 +0000
From: "darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: heater motors (was "here's an easy question")

Gerald, as "DeLorean Joe" and others said you can switch the hot and
ground
wires and it will work, but as Paul Gress pointed out you will then have
the
entire metal motor assembly "hot", and if you touch it with anything
grounded while working under the dash etc. you will cause a short.  And
sorry Joe, but this time I have to disagree with you - its only "standard
procedure when replacing this motor" when you are using the wrong one.  If
someone can't afford an original motor, then they can just get one for a
1980 Chevy Monza, NAPA part number 655-1005.  It spins the correct
direction.

Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 01:54:25 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: HELP! [long]

On 4 Jan 1999, E. Brandon wrote:

> I have waited for this day since 1981, My dad finally gave me his
> Delorean! He is the original owner and everything on the car is
> original. Only thing

Is it legal to drive a DeLorean to work at Ford? :}

> the car has been sitting in a barn for almost 10 years. I need to do
> some major restoration. Where should I start? Should I buy an old (not
> running)  Delorean and use it for parts, or should I order all my parts
> from Texas?

Fantastic!  A restoration, what a deal.
* fluffy puffs up with a topic he actually knows something about

It depends on how bad your damage is, what's wrong with it, and how much
"restoration" you want when you're done.  If you want a full restoration,
this involves disassembling almost the entire car, putting in a new wiring
harness (can you still get those?), sandblasting the frame, probably
overhauling the engine, etc.  It takes a year or two and you have
basically a new car when you're done.  But if you want to just get a
neglected car going again, you can do it a little easier.

Most age-related conditions cannot be cured with parts from another car so
buying a "parts" car may not be the right choice.  Things that might make
a "parts" car worthwhile would include significant body damage, engine
damage, accident damage, many missing parts.  One thing about the DeLorean
is that parts cars don't exactly grow on trees.  Suppose you buy a parts
car for $5000.  You can fix a lot of things with new parts for $5000.
It's not like with most cars where a wrecked or blown car will sell for a
couple hundred dollars.  On the other hand, you can sell a lot of stuff
off that parts car if you want to fool with it and store all the stuff
until somebody bothers to ask you.  Maybe you net yourself a spare left
fender, or something.

How "major" is the damage?  If it's been sitting for 10 years, your fuel
system is probably ruined.  But if it's been in a barn, and protected from
the elements, your interior components are probably okay.  Definitely
check out and/or rebuild the brakes.  If a five speed, you will want to
verify the condition of the clutch.  The brakes and clutch both have
"soft" parts that will deteriorate with time.  Be sure to use DOT 4 or DOT
5 brake fluid.  The most common, DOT 3, will eat up the brake cylinders.
If an automatic transmission, uh... well the auto transmissions are always
broken anyway.  Start with the governor computer.  :}

Make sure you have all the recalls installed.  (throttle linkage, inertia
switch, and, uh, the third one).  Your shocks and gas struts will probably
all be shot.  The suspension and steering bushings will possibly have to
be replaced.  Check your trailing arm bolts while you're there, they don't
deteriorate with time but hey.  The major mechanical components (engine,
transmission, most of the steering, etc.) will probably by and large be
okay.  Any consumables should automatically be replaced (oil & filter, air
filter, gear oil/ATF, belts, etc).  You'll have to flush, refill, and
bleed the cooling system (after everything is reassembled).  The A/C won't
work.  All the freon has probably leaked out.  If not then something else
is wrong with it.  Worry about it later.  Various components of your
electrical system may or may not work.  If you're lucky then the ones
actually needed to run the car (ignition, starter, alternator) will work.
Try not to get locked in the car.  Check for any sort of strange objects
that will have found their way into the various nooks and orifices.  This
would be things like insects, birds' nests, baseballs, straw, tools,
little scraps of metal, rags, parts of old shoes, dirt, pieces of paper,
candles, nails, animal fur/droppings/skeletons, and just about any other
imaginable piece of crap.  I found all of these upon disassembling my
Jeep.

As for the mechanicals, visually inspect the engine to make sure that
there are no cracks in manifolds, etc.  Take off the starter and inspect
the visible part of flywheel for damage.  You'll possibly need to do this
anyway.  Now you should turn the engine by hand (use the teeth that the
starter normally uses, not the belt pulley) to make sure it hasn't seized
up or something strange during the 10 years.  Don't turn it backwards!
Take the transmission out, then do the same with it (it's okay if you turn
that backwards but don't make a habit of it).  If it's a 5-speed make sure
it shifts nicely (do this before you take it out of the car if possible).
If you're lucky you won't have to take the transmission apart, but most
likely you'll discover something wrong with it immediately after you've
put everything back in again. :} If it's an auto trans, go ask someone who
has a clue about auto transmissions. :} If the engine turns okay, then
have it compression tested.  The instinct may be to remove the heads.  Do
not do this.  Somehow it screws up the PRV, plus you might not be able to
get them off anyway due to the iron bolt / aluminum engine bit. If the
compression test goes okay too, then call it good and see if it works once
everything is back together.

Whatever you do, don't try to start it.  You can easily convert minor
engine trouble into major damage this way.  Go through the fuel system
first and verify the engine's soundness.

> My dad thinks he has some mechanic that can work on the car. I would
> rather have the car transported to Houston and let them give me an
> estimate. Since the title is still in his name I will probably have to
> listen to him, so where should I start?

Did he give you the car or didn't he?  If you are paying for the repairs
you can have whatever you want done.  I would be cautious about listening
to repair advice from the person who let the car sit in a barn for 10
years, father or not.  His intentions are good but his information
probably isn't.  Ask a fellow DML member in your area where to go for
repairs.  There are plenty of original dealer-trained mechanics still
doing mechanical work out there.  Plus, some European car specialists will
work on the DeLorean.  I think there's even a list out there of all the
usable mechanics.  Who knows, your father might be right. :)

One thing to do (unless you want to win at Concours) is to install things
like Fanzilla, Tankzilla, radiator upgrades, and things that are a lot
easier to do when you have everything taken apart anyway.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 23:35:48 -0800
From: "Montgomery, Ken" <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: 4x6 speakers (was: CORRECTION)

I was able to get a pair of 4X6 speakers to fit. The trick is to get a
pair that will fit the hose clamp mounts. You'll only be able to mount
them back with 1 screw though. I also made a set of foam cutouts that
fit around the speaker and provide a good acoustic fit. It's not easy
though, so your mileage may vary..

> thank you to tell me where I can find the rear speakers
> easily. Does some big manufacturers do such speaker
> now ? I heard about Alpine or Rockford...
> Can you get some from USA for me in France ? I am also
> looking for a CRAIG  radio. Does anyone konows ?
>
> Cyril  Binet VIN 1807
>
================================================================
Ken Montgomery          VIN #10911      Work  : (916) 278-7646
Sacramento, CA          'OUTTIME'       Home  : (916) 944-3252
Founder, Northern California DeLorean Motor Club 'NCDMC'
Please visit my website at:
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm         kenm@xxxxxxxx
================================================================

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 23:42:13 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Where Can I Find?

At 02:16 PM 1/4/99 EST, you wrote:
>Where can I find a model of a DeLorean?
>
> Send postings to "dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx"
> Before posting, search the archives! www.dmcnews.com/search.html
> Thank you!
>
>
reply:

Hi this is Lee,

check the message base for "Subject: DML: DMC-12 Limited Edition Model
Kit"
From: JJ <carnut1@xxxxxxx>
 
or goto http://www.totalimmersion.com/dmcboard/Html

and post your information. several model kits have been traded in the past
few weeks.

Lee

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 10:33:32 -0500 (EST)
From: DJS912@xxxxxxxxx (Danny Smith)
Subject: Re: DML: paint removel

Anyone know the address and name of the company that makes the
flap-wheel for the D's surface?
 In Ken's recent post he said it is in Indianapolis.
Thanks,
Dan

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 12:00:40 -0500
From: "Blade Runner" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Matlock Episode

For those like me who are interested in the Matlock episode featuring =
the DeLorean,  it is on TBS tomarrow -- that is Wednesday at noon.

Jack Stiefel
President Blade Runner Tackle Corporation
President Leslie Leasing Corporation
Visit us at: http://www.bladerunnertackle.com
or visit my DeLorean Page at: =
http://www.geocities.com/rodeodrive/8601/delorean.html
DMC Vin # 3461  August 1981 Build
NY Licence # 0utatime

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 13:34:57 EST
From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
Subject: Don't damn the automatics (was: Re: DML: HELP! [long])

Hey Bill, I have an automatic with 49K on it and it works like butter and
a
hot knife.  I can see how an abused auto can be frustrating, but please
don't
damn the 'breed' because someone complains about his lemon.  I have my
car for
sale because of the auto tranny.  It's too smooth, I want  a 5 speed. 
"Born
to shift."  But the basic trannie, well maintained, with an external
cooler
(even Ed Bernstein has one on his 200K+ 'D') is as good as they came in
1981-83.  Regards, Joe

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 13:38:57 EST
From: JSteuben@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: RE: 4x6 speakers (was: CORRECTION)

Hi Ken,

Another solution for the speaker problem is to have the originals
reworked at
a speaker repair store.  Recently, I had my vintage MacIntosh speakers
rebuilt.  Not only did it cost a mere fraction of the price of new
speakers,
but I swear that they sound better.  Good Luck, Joe

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 14:39:11 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Don't damn the automatics (was: Re: DML: HELP! [long])

On Tue, 5 Jan 1999 JSteuben@xxxxxxx wrote:

> Hey Bill, I have an automatic with 49K on it and it works like butter
> and a hot knife.  I can see how an abused auto can be frustrating, but
> please don't damn the 'breed' because someone complains about his lemon.

Yeah, I think what we have here is a failure to communicate properly.
When I say something like "the automatics are always broken anyway" I
don't really mean "all DMC automatic transmissions are garbage."  What I
am saying would be more akin to "the trailing arm bolts are always bent"
or "the speedo cable is always broken."  It doesn't mean that all
DeLoreans suffer from this condition, or that it is impossible or even
particularly difficult to maintain one so that this does not occur.  But
it happens a lot; don't be surprised.  My statement also has to do with
the fact that I really don't know much about automatic transmissions (have
never owned one, never wanted one) and so an off-the-cuff remark is
probably the best I can do in this case.  Were I speaking in person, I
think that I would communicate more clearly.  :)

Upon re-reading the e-mail, I can see how I might have given the wrong
impression, and I didn't mean to.  I apologize to all the owners out there
with working automatic transmissions. :}

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 16:02:48 -0800
From: "Dave Price" <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Humor- yet another misconception about DeLoreans...

Hey all! I just had to pass this one on...

I drove my D to the local auto parts store today and as soon as I walked
in
the door, I heard the two guys working there talking about DeLoreans
(obviously prompted by seeing me pull into the parking lot).  As soon as I
approached the counter one of the guys asked me if I had a 4-cylinder D,
or
if I had the "rare" 6-cylinder model.  I chuckled and told him that all
D's
were 6's.  His reply: "I've worked on several DeLoreans, and they all had
4-cylinder Fiat engines".  I tried to tell him he was wrong in the nicest
possible way, but he just wouldn't acknowledge it.  So I brushed it off
with
the olde "They must have been custom modifications..." (but WHY would
someone want less power??) <g>.  Then, a little satisfaction was gained
when
he looked it up in his book and there was only one engine listed... B28 !!

Happy Motoring!, and just consider yourself lucking that your driving the
unusually rare 6-banger!
- - Dave

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 22:34:19 EST
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Stainless Solutions

Stainless steel bumpers?  What do you think is going to happen when you or
someone bumps the car? 

I guess you will have wrinkles and dents that will be an eyesore. 

We worry about our cars being dented by simple things such as rocks
creating
dings and people open doors onto its sides and, etc.  Why add an extra
burden?
I think it is impractical.

Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic.  9D NY

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 21:36:30 +0000
From: "Martin Gutkowski (UK)" <martin.is@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Intercoolers

Marc A Levy wrote:

<SNIP> (I think the inter coolers were between the scoops and the
turbo). <SNIP>

Not being pedantic; I thought intercoolers were placed between
pressurising
implement (turbo or supercharger) and inlet manifold because in
pressurisation,
the air is heated (physical fact of any substance) which reduces its
"expandability"
during combustion.

Am I wrong to think this applies to all cases?

Martin

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 17:25:59 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: RE: heater motors (was "here's an easy question")

Darryl,
Thanks for the information on the NAPA replacement, we have always ordered
replacement motors from DeLorean suppliers, many of the units required the
reverse wiring. I now have a question for you. Why do some versions of
these motors rotate in the opposite direction? Are the DeLorean and Chevy
Monza versions backwards from other applications or is it the other way
around. Many owners have asked me this question and I have never known the
correct answer. As a joke I have said that "they run backwards in the "D"
because it is a rear engine rear drive car".

Based on your information we will now be sure to order the motor that does
not require the reverse wiring.

DMC Joe / DeLorean Services / dmcjoe@xxxxxxx

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------------------------------

End of dmcnews-digest V3 #464
*****************************

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