[DML] Digest Number 1327
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[DML] Digest Number 1327



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1327

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There are 12 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. JZD Address
           From: "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Spring Event: Delorean Midatlantic Door Adjustment Social
           From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
      4. Re: Dakota Dash
           From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Florida
           From: "geek321y <tecno@xxxxxxxxxx>" <tecno@xxxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes --  VERY LONG!!!
           From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
      7. What a weird coincidence
           From: "supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. Re: Florida
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
     10. Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes
           From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
     11. Re: Re: Re: Alternator-wiring
           From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
     12. Steering rack replacement
           From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 15:32:38 -0000
   From: "Dave Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: JZD Address

As usally happens this time of year, this topic is coming up again.
The DML will not post JZD's address (any more than we'd post any of
YOURS) without his permission. At this time we have neither his
address nor permission. If we get both we'll let you know.

Dave S




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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 00:32:05 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Spring Event: Delorean Midatlantic Door Adjustment Social


For all Delorean owners in the Northeast the Delorean Midatlantic
Group is holding their annual Door Adjustment Social and Spring Tour.
Set aside April 26-27 2003 as we are planning it to be a 2 day event.
The first day will consist mainly of a Tech Session with Rob Grady of
P. J. Grady inspecting cars and pointing things out to owners. For all
members (including new ones that sign up at the event) there is the
FREE door torsion bar adjustment (if required) and whatever else can
be done time and parts permitting. Saturday evening will be a guest
speaker on the history of the Delorean (someone who was intimitly
involved but never before in front of the public). Sunday will be a
road tour ending at a major shopping venue for the ladies. If anyone
has any suggestions or ideas on how to improve this event please
contact me. Also if anyone wants to volunteer to help with any portion
of the event it would be appreciated. More details will follow in the
comming months, just set the date aside and hope for good weather!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
Delorean Midatlantic Technical Editor and now in charge of the Spring
Social!




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Message: 3
   Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 20:13:42 EST
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes

List,

so if it is possible to have both my pods and my dash speakers hooked up, how
would i do that?  of course i would need a bass-blocker to keep the low end
out of the dash speakers, but how would i wire it so that my head unit can
handle running four speakers on the fronts instead of two?  i am not
knowledgable in playing with ohm loads and such - i would assume i need to
drop the load so the two speakers are running at 2ohms each if i am running
4ohm on just the kicks?  i believe the dash speakers are 4ohm also.

how do i wire this to make it work?

Andy

Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
   Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 07:42:23 -0000
   From: "content22207 <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dakota Dash

Contact Louie G (louie AT delorean.com). Not only could he shoot you
some pics, but describe the pros & cons as well. Not long ago he was
willing to give his digital dash to anyone who would do labor to swap
their analog gauges.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AJL521@xxxx wrote:
> Does anyone on the list have any pics of a Dakota Digital dash.  I was
> thinking that it would be a nice addition, but I wanted to see it first.
>
> Thanks
> Andrew
> 4194




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Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 08:15:43 -0000
   From: "geek321y <tecno@xxxxxxxxxx>" <tecno@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Florida

Looking for people in the FL area with DMC and do they know any body
that services them in florida..

Tecno(AT)mpinet.net




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Message: 6
   Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 08:46:56 EST
   From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes --  VERY LONG!!!

[MODERATOR NOTE: This is an extremely long post. With Kayo's permission I moved it to the tech archive of the www.dmcnews.com web page. Direct link is at the bottom of this post.]

------

I was hesitant about posting my experiences and my findings on this "thread."

Several months ago I post a thread asking if anyone had any experience with
McIntosh or Sinfoni amplifiers in a DeLorean.  In short, there were only two
DeLorean owners who had responded.  One person has asked me to post my "info"
regardless, as to share info.  In short I did purchased the Sinfoni 120.4x
amp and I love it against many amps I had or heard and I have heard many
sound systems.... McIntosh amps are no slouch or losers and both of these
company's amps are not cheap and they are the best amongst others amps in the
industry.

www.sinfoni.com
www.mcintoshlabs.com   
www.ampman.com/products/details.asp?id=8

Anyway, I hope I can add some insights on this subject of "sound
reproduction" for it can be very subjective with controversy.

--------------------------

Continued at:

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/audio_kayo.html



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Message: 7
   Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 17:21:39 -0000
   From: "supremeadmiralsenn <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <StadnickAd@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: What a weird coincidence

I was in Books-A-Million the other day looking for a book about
DeLoreans. I told the salesgirl that it might have 'John DeLorean' in
the title.  Immediately some old lady walks up to me and says she
used to live by him when helived in NJ! How weird is that?!




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Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 01 Jan 2003 17:44:54 +0000
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes

Get speakers with the same impedance otherwise the power delivered will be uneven in
favour of the speaker with the lowest impedance. It's also easier to work out the
impedance "seen" by the head unit. If you have two 8 ohm cones wired in parallel, the
head unit will "see" 4 ohms. The actual calculation is:

(A x B) / (A + B)

You wire them to the same terminals on the head unit.

This is getting a bit non-delorean, so mail me direct if you need any more help

Martin
#1458
#4426

Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:

> List,
>
> so if it is possible to have both my pods and my dash speakers hooked up, how
> would i do that?  of course i would need a bass-blocker to keep the low end
> out of the dash speakers, but how would i wire it so that my head unit can
> handle running four speakers on the fronts instead of two?




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Message: 9
   Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 14:39:20 EST
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Florida

Florida is a big state. Where are you. I know people all over Florida.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


<< Looking for people in the FL area with DMC and do they know any body
 that services them in florida..
 
 Tecno(AT)mpinet.net
 
  >>



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Message: 10
   Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 14:44:29 EST
   From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: biggest speaker possible in rear speaker holes

Andy, There is a difference in 4 ohms resistance and 4 ohms impedance that
speakers run on. If the total ohms of impedance doesn't match the output
impedance  of the unit your installing, it will sound bad. You can't really
measure impedance with an ohm meter. You just have to hook it up the way the
manufacture says to match.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com



<< so if it is possible to have both my pods and my dash speakers hooked up,
how
 would i do that?  of course i would need a bass-blocker to keep the low end
 out of the dash speakers, but how would i wire it so that my head unit can
 handle running four speakers on the fronts instead of two?  i am not
 knowledgable in playing with ohm loads and such - i would assume i need to
 drop the load so the two speakers are running at 2ohms each if i am running
 4ohm on just the kicks?  i believe the dash speakers are 4ohm also.
  >>



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Message: 11
   Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 01:15:22 +0100
   From: Jan van de Wouw <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Alternator-wiring

On Mon, 30 Dec 2002 22:28:10 EST, John Hervey <dherv10@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> The brown / yellow wire (Light wire) is energized via the main relay
> when the key is turned on and the battery light lights. If it's working.
> Then when the alternator starts turning it sends and opposing voltage
> back to the light and turns it off.

I guess this is the same effect as with the modification for the side
marker lights to double as both SML and indicators...

> If the battery light bulb doesn't come when you turn the key on, then
> there is something wrong in the wiring or the regulator isn't grounded
> properly for the light wire use.The bulb # ( 161 )  has the proper
> resistance and acts like a ballast resistor to keep from burning up
> the regulator. Hooking a straight brown wire or straight voltage up
> to the regulator will render it useless in about 30 seconds or less.

Now I'm totally confused; doe you use the SENSE or LIGHT terminal on the
alternator? I.e. hooking up the light (from the car) to the SENSE terminal?
The light does light when the ignition is turned on and goes off when the
engine is running.

The car we are talking about had the alternator replaced by some shop
and it all worked fine up untill a couple aof days ago. Then the car
didn't charge anymore and got stranded. Some one from "Wegenwacht",
the Dutch equivalent for the "AAA" tracked the problem down to lack
of input on the SENSE-port of the Alternator and put in a temporary
wire from the starterpost to the SENSE-terminal...

Could it be that the alternator has some sort of ballast resistor inside
the regulator? I still don't understand why there even IS a sense-wire,
since it connects to the output of the alternator anyway...

>> At Idle without any accessories running we got 13.4V at the starter-post,
[snip]
> 13.4 long shot could have been battery voltage or a damaged regulator
> trying to hold on. You have to have RPM's to maintain the voltage.
> There is very little to no current till the alternator reaches about
> 1500 RPM on the rpm gauge.

I guess that's OK then; I just remembered that this car idles
at about 2000 RPM as it is awaiting a new Idlespeed ECU.

> Replace the bulb and check connections

The bulb is OK; it DOES light AND goes off at the right moment...

>> without the sense-wire there's no charging either!
>> But I'd hate to burn up the regulator; should I put
>> in a resistor of some sort?

I just checked the wiring schematic for my Nissan 100NX;
it has the Sense-wire going DIRECTLY to the output,
not even switched by a relay. While I was doing this I
went along and checked the schematic I had lying around
from my previous Ford Escort; same hookup...

I think I'll go check what car the alternator was originally
built for and/or what type of regulator it has and/or how it
should be connected in it's original application...
Maybe there's a resitor allready inside?

Your input really IS appreciated,
all the best for 2003,

JAN van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

------------------------------




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Message: 12
   Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 00:09:36 -0000
   From: "ksgrimsr <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Steering rack replacement

I had a chance to replace my steering rack over the holidays and I
thought I would share my experience with you in the event some of you
are considering the same procedure.

In my case, my steering had gotten a bit sloppy due to excessive
backlash in the steering rack plus the lower ball joints being shot.
I'll only talk about the steering rack replacement here and save the
fun with the lower ball joints for another time. The effect of the
steering rack being shot was that the car tended to follow ruts in
the road and there was a little bit of play in the wheel. The overall
experience was that the steering was not very precise and generally
seemed sloppy.

I purchased a reconditioned steering rack from DMC (Houston). When it
arrived, I was surprised at how well the unit was packed. It arrived
in a sturdy wooden crate with foam inserts keeping the rack snugly in
place. The reconditioned rack consisted of the rack itself plus new
tie-rod ends. I was pleased to see that the tie-rod ends included the
newer style flexible black rubber grease boots -- the older style
beige plastic grease boots all seem to have brittled such that they
tend to split as soon as they are tightened to the steering knuckle.

Replacement took a little over an hour plus a trip to the alignment
shop.

Details on the process are on the DMCNews website at

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/steeringrack.html

After I was done my car again has the kind of precision steering that
contributes so much to the overall handling/feeling of the drive.

Happy driving.

                Knut





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