[DML] Digest Number 1071
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[DML] Digest Number 1071



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1071

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There are 10 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: DeLorean Hood w/ Gas Flap
           From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Vendors and Toby-TABs
           From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
      3. Memphis
           From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Re: Coolant system help plz!
           From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. RE: Vendors, new product development...
           From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: simple question - hood dome light connector
           From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
      7. RE: Alabama DeLorean Dealers
           From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: Vendors and Toby-TABs
           From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. slight idle problem and acceleration noise
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
     10. machined wheels and ground effects
           From: Soma576@xxxxxxx


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Message: 1
   Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2002 20:59:03 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Hood w/ Gas Flap

Nope, but I do seem to recall from the movie that there is a gas flap in
the same location:

http://www.monkeyview.net/dakotademo(at)hotmail.com/default/truckster1.jpg

-Christian

On Tue, 11 Jun 2002 Senatorpack@xxxxxx wrote:

>
>
>     I'm having a chest operation later this week. I received a Blockbuster
> Gift Basket from my old fraternity brothers as get well soon present. One of
> the DVD's in the basket was National Lampoon's Vacation.
>     Does the Station wagon that they drive in "The Family Truckster" have an
> early 1981 DeLorean hood painted green?
>
> Best Wishes,
> Michael
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




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Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:40:27 -0000
   From: "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vendors and Toby-TABs

After my last post was twisted around so badly I should know better,
but what the heck.

First, I do not consider Marty, Darryl or any other owner not solely
in the parts business to be a "vendor". Marty was a gentleman when he
could have made money off of me, as was Darryl. Both offered advice
on their products when they didn't have to, which allowed me to
duplicate them at a lower cost. My hats off to such people, they are
an asset to D owners everywhere. I will use them in the future, even
when I could save money, solely because of this kindness.

Fwiw, I can say that Darryl's door system is a good design. Although
I have never seen one, I have used the actuators in a refined design
and they work very well. They may not be as stout as solenoids but
they're adequate to do the job, have tangible benefits over
soleniods, and I believe their service life will be acceptable.
My system costs less because it has a lower parts count (no actuator
mounting brackets for example), but not much, so anyone who thinks
Darryl is making a killing is just plain wrong.

>>>how hard could it be to sell 100 sets? Harder than we thought.
After 5+ months of fairly high visibility on the DML
we have sold exactly 59 sets.<<<

Toby's bolts. First off, I will say this is as good as it gets, from
a guy who obviously knows his stuff. (Since I drive his company's
equipment, I have to trust him.) The properties of Inconel 718 are
impressive but I question if they are overkill for this application.
Why not cad NAS or even AN? Why go through all this when NAS is off
the shelf, much cheaper, and (I would assume) plenty strong enough?

Toby, care to offer an opinion? Not on costs (your bolts are worth
it), but on why such overkill? Are you saying that NAS can't handle
the tensile loads when torquing and not exceed the elastic limit?
I find that a bit hard to believe. Once installed, the running loads
are mostly in shear, right? Or is it a SAE vrs metric issue? No
offense, just curious.




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Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 15:14:33 -0400
   From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Memphis

Leaving solo from Canada in 2 hours for Memphis with a nervous stomach!

Is the radiator bled enough and will it function okay? Clutch okay? Wipers?
The exhaust manifold on the driver's side is noisy when cold - hope it holds
up. Long drive. I should know all the words to every Sinatra song by the
time I get there!

I'm taking a limited quantity of custom printed acrylic cups, just for this
meet. They look great, dishwasher safe - top rack. Holds a full beer. Will
sell them at a very reasonable price.

Look for "18 AGIN" - Ontario plates - should be easy to find - it's a
stainless steel car!

Drive "the dream", carefully ......(as my Mom would say)


Marvin Stein
#17707
Printed Drinkware Company
924 Dundas Street
London, Ontario, Canada N5W 3A1
website: printeddrinkware.com
email: marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
tel:  519-434-1666
fax: 519-434-7071





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Message: 4
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 19:23:41 -0000
   From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coolant system help plz!

Put a pressure tester on the system and pump it up to a couple of
pounds. (Make sure there is plenty of coolant in the system). Loosen a
hose clamp on a hose as high up as you can. You may have to stick a
screwdriver between the hose and the fitting to let out the air. Let
the air out until some coolant leaks out. You may have to also do this
on the radiater. The shrouds are needed to properly direct air through
the radiater, some owners have noticed that when they had a license
plate over the grill it caused the car to run hotter. If the radiater
is plugged up with insects or leaves it will cause the car to run hot
too. You said you replaced the engine, are you sure the water pump is
running in the right direction? Maybe the pipes are hooked up wrong?
Another trick is to drill a 1/8 bypass hole in the thermostat to allow
air to pass and self-bleed. What you could eventually do is drill and
tap the thermostat housing and put a screw in it which you could
loosen to let air out or run a small hose out to the header bottle
like the self-bleeder system.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "at88mph" <at88mph@xxxx> wrote:
> Welp,
>
> While tryin to get ready for Memphis, today I decided to flush the
radiator.
> Since I've done the engine swap, I haven't had any probs out of the
cooling
> system at all. I just thought it would be a good precaution.  Well,
now, as
> luck would have it, I apparently have air trapped in the system. 
I've tried
> everything to get the air out, but b/c its a 4.3, I don't have a
bleed
> screw.  Does anyone have any suggestions for bleeding out the system
if the
> DeLorean didn't have a bleed screw?    Also, I've heard different
things
> from good sources about the front air shroud (for lack of a better
term)
> that covers up the radiator. (not the air dam, but the black cover
over the
> radiator)  I was wondering if running the car without this would
help
> cooling, hurt the cooling, or have no effect.  One reliable source
says the
> DeLorean has to have it to cool properly, another source says there
are LOTS
> of DeLoreans running around without them and even run cooler without
it.
> Any advice on either prob would be GREATLY appreciated!  I'm tryin
to make
> it to Memphis with the D, now I'm kickin myself for messin with it!
:(
>
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> Duke
> '94 Chevy 4.3 Vortec conversion
> www.geocities.com/at88mph_1999




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Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 21:47:53 +0200
   From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Vendors, new product development...

A few comments -
If there is trouble to have people pay after a part has been developed, why not make them pay in advance?
I, for one, would have absolutely no trouble with that. I'm one of DMC Houston most satisfied customers, their service and knowledge is great, and lets face it - it is only they who can take the DeLorean on to "another level" based on their warehouse of DeLorean parts.

Again, I would like to remind people of the poll concerning new re-developed parts.

James, does DMC Houston have plans for a small temperature gadget that could be fitted in the space of the centre console clock? It would be very nice to know the outside temperature. Wide angle mirrors are also a thing that would make the DeLorean more modern.

And the torsion bar issue. Do you have the blueprints/info on how to make these bars or is this info lost?
If it is lost, be sure to get in touch with the retired engineers at Grumman before they pass away. We need this info.

Finally, you have mentioned that a bracket is coming soon, the bracket for holding down the T-panel behind the rear louvers. When will that be ready?

Other than this, can you tell us what other parts DMC Houston are considering to re-manufacture?

Very best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway

VIN # 06759

Unfortunately unable to attend Memphis :-( But you guys have a great time, you hear! :-)


Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 10:18:01 -0500
   From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vendors, new product development...

Precisely why I had to smile when Stian mentioned this - it's a great idea
to have people pre-pay to order a part that's being developed, but when it's
time for people to put their money where their mouth is, it's often a
different story.

On things like the switches, door handles, etc - in order to make the cost
reasonable (note that the three aforementioned products actually came DOWN
in price from previous retail), a relatively large minimum order for
production is required. Particularly when you consider how many cars are
left and actively used.

So it becomes a numbers game - how many can you sell, at what price, to get
a return on the investment (at least recovering expenses, preferably making
some money if for nothing else than to have something ELSE remanufactured)?
A lot of stuff doesn't make the cut (yet) based on that.

Stian mentioned the two tank senders, and Martin pointed out that
competition is healthy. In this case, Tankzilla is a fine product, and we
have used them for several years. But the price turns a lot of people off,
and at times, we have had problems with availability (though not very
often). Our tank sender will retail for considerably less than half the
price of Tankzilla, and as we had them manufactured ourselves, availability
shouldn't be a problem for us.

James

>> Why don't some of the vendors do this?
>> Put forward an offer on a part that will be reproduced. Let people
>> pre-order, and hold the credit card on file...so when the part has
>> been reproduced they charge the card and ship it out.
>> This method could boost development time for replacement DMC parts
>> of higher quality...
>
(SNIP)
> prior to embarking. He didn't ask for a "credit card commitment" up front as
> suggested above, just an indication of interest.  As a vendor for 16 years,
(SNIP)
> support expressed, how hard could it be to sell 100 sets?
>
> Harder than we thought.  After 5+ months of fairly high visibility on the DML
> we have sold exactly 59 sets.  Many of those who expressed initial support
> never came through with orders.
(SNIP)
> Was it worth putting up close to 6 grand to see so little (less than 1%)
> interest in the TABs?  Not from a business perspective. But we who support the
> hobby the rest of you enjoy will keep doing it.  Or most will.  Its up to you.
> Darryl T.
> Specialty Automotive



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 6
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 17:30:15 EDT
   From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: simple question - hood dome light connector

I have a little tool I bought at a hardware store...Kind of like a 2 foot
snake with little tiny claws on the end which is great for retrieving objects
that you drop and teeter on impossible sections of the car...Maybe something
like that could reach down and grab it....Kind of like the claw/crane game at
an arcade only you dont need quarters....this tool cost me about $3 and has
saved me several times from having a small nut or bolt disappear into the
bowells of the PRV.

Mike C
2109


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 7
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 18:40:44 -0500
   From: "Brian McCool" <bjmccool@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Alabama DeLorean Dealers

Here you go, Robert G.


Royal Oldsmobile
3010 Columbiana Road
Birminham, AL  35216
205-823-3100

Royal Chevrolet
601 Washington Street
Hunstille, AL  35804
205-539-6541

Cobb-Kirkland Motor Co. (Cadillac/Pontiac/Mazda)
2820 Eastern Blvd.
Montgomery, AL  36101
205-277-3480



> Robert G. wrote:
>
> Hi List,
>
> If anyone has a list of past DeLorean dealers, could you
> please pass along a list of the DeLorean dealers that were
> in Alabama?
>
> I'm very curious to know if they have any old parts and stuff
> still lying around!
>
> Thanks,
> Robert G.

 





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Message: 8
   Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2002 00:10:55 -0000
   From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Vendors and Toby-TABs

Actually, the TAB's are loaded up in a combination of shear and
bending ... the bending is what kills them.  As far as NAS or AN spec
bolts (these are government specification bolts - sort of generic
aerospace standard fasteners), the main challenge is the metric
diameter.  The SAE equivalent is approximately a double oversize 7/16
inch bolt, which is hard to come by, especially in the lengths we
need.  You can get decent A286 CRES material with these standards, but
the size represents a real problem IF you want a proper fit in terms
of diameter.  You can put a standard size 7/16 inch bolt in there, but
it will be very sloppy - and bad IMHO.  The inconel 718 is a bit of an
overkill, with a margin of 50% over the OEM bolts (at least), but
you'll never have to give it a second thought.  The 747 airplane has
four independent hydraulic systems, plus a spare just in case, but
only needs two systems for safe flight.  Overkill?  It depends on who
you ask.  The guy maintaining the systems probably thinks so, but the
pilot probably thinks that five is just right.  But ... I digress.  I
hope that makes sense.

Toby Peterson  VIN 2248
Winged1


--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "checksix3" <checksix3@xxxx> wrote:

> Toby's bolts. First off, I will say this is as good as it gets, from
> a guy who obviously knows his stuff. (Since I drive his company's
> equipment, I have to trust him.) The properties of Inconel 718 are
> impressive but I question if they are overkill for this application.
> Why not cad NAS or even AN? Why go through all this when NAS is off
> the shelf, much cheaper, and (I would assume) plenty strong enough?
>
> Toby, care to offer an opinion? Not on costs (your bolts are worth
> it), but on why such overkill? Are you saying that NAS can't handle
> the tensile loads when torquing and not exceed the elastic limit?
> I find that a bit hard to believe. Once installed, the running loads
> are mostly in shear, right? Or is it a SAE vrs metric issue? No
> offense, just curious.




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Message: 9
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 20:34:22 EDT
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: slight idle problem and acceleration noise

Hey all,

thanks to Gary (checksix), i was able to find the problem with my idle not
kicking down.  my throttle was incorrectly adjusted ever since i bought the
car in 2000!!  well it kicks down like it should, in fact, the car seems to
have a lot more kick now than it used to!  i love it!

my only complaint is that the idle is a little random at idle speed.  the
needle seems to hover around 750 or so, and it moves around all over the
place randomly from about 450 to almost 1000, then it goes back to 750 for a
bit, then dances, then back to 750.  i know the engine isn't supposed to be
super smooth, but seems a little excessive.  what can i do to smoothen things
out?  i know my engine CAN be better because it used to be until i adjusted
everything over again.  sometimes it is so erratic my oil pressure never
drops to 40 like it usually does at idle speed.

also, i've had this problem for a while too - on accelerating in any gear in
any manner, i hear a noisy vibration sound from the engine between about 2500
to 2900 RPM.  you can go slow and it starts, or you can go fast, it's there. 
it's quite high frequency, sounds metallic.  it used to sound like air
whooshing in an odd way, but lately it's sounded abrasive.  it will do this
upon deceleration too, but it doesn't sound as loud.

any idea what this could be?

Andy

Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 10
   Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2002 20:37:41 EDT
   From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: machined wheels and ground effects

Hey all,

i am probably going to get new wheels later this year and i was wondering
what people's thoughts were on the machined finish vs polished finish wheels.
 durability? how long do they look good?  any problems?  i do not want to get
powdercoated wheels like grady's because i need to be able to use a brake
dust cleaner on the wheels to clean them, and i've had it with powdercoated
wheels and trying to clean them without damaging them.   not only that but
powdercoated wheels fade with UV damage.  i want something permanantly
finished!

ALSO i want to get Grady's ground effects kit without the front air dam
piece.  does anyone have any comments on those?  anyone have any pics?  i've
seen them once but it was a while ago.  i will be getting them fully dressed
for installation.

Andy

Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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