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There are 5 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...
From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Workshop Manual
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9@xxxxxxxxx>
3. EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
From: "jwit6dmc12" <jwit6@xxxxxx>
4. steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9@xxxxxxxxx>
5. intermittent signal indicators
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 01:26:12 -0000
From: "cdrugly" <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Does a tune-up ever go right? Not when I do it...
Joe,
Thanks for the heads up. It has helped me diagnose the problem. See
what you think:
I took the solenoid off and repaired the broken electrical connection
and still got the same results. As long as I don't really hammer down
on the accleration, the car will accelerate fine. At around 65, it's
like a swift kick in the ass as the car takes off.
With the solenoid repaired, I checked the timing again. I found that
it was advanced almost 25 degrees. How it was even starting, I have
no idea. So, I checked the vacuum coming from the solenoid, and it
did exist, even at idle. According to D:08:01, the microswitch should
energize the solenoid and close off the vacuum when the throttle
plate is closed.
When I disconnected the line to the distributor vacuum advance, the
timing returned to 13 degrees.
Hmmm. So, it looks like the thermal vacuum control valve is open
correctly (the only reason it would close would be for emissions, I
assume) and is sending vacuum to the solenoid. With the solenoid
stuck open, there is a vacuum during idle causing the 10 degree over-
advance. I'm thinking the solenoid is hosed.
So, did I do good?
--- As a side note, I noticed the when the vacuum is disconnected and
tested the timing, pulling on the throttle advanced the timing.
Question is, does the D utilize mechanical (centrifugal) advance as
well as vacuum advance?
Thanks for the advice,
Travis
3512
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:32:32 -0000
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Workshop Manual
I'm a new Delorean owner of about three weeks. I have read through
houndreds of your postings and they have been really helpful. I was
wondering if anyone had any comments on the different workshop
manuals. When I bought the Delorean, the seller game me his workshop
manual. It is the Delorean One version. I have had several other
cars and I buy the workshop manual everytime. Unfourtunately, this
manual isn't that great. Does anyone know if the manual that PJ
Gradys sells is any better or about the same. Looking at the picture
on line, it looks very different. I'm going to be in Long Island in a
couple of weekends and was thinking about stopping by and picking it
up if it is any better.
Thanks
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:32:10 -0000
From: "jwit6dmc12" <jwit6@xxxxxx>
Subject: EFI Custom Intake Winter Project
Hello all,
I wanted to share with you what I've managed to accomplish over the
winter. When my clutch slave cylinder failed I removed the intake
manifold to replace it, and before I knew it I decided to fabricate a
new intake for use with my EFI setup. I also replaced the alternator,
rewired the engine compartment and replaced the exhaust system with a
polished stainless steel Supertrap.
There's a picture on the second page of the photos section called EFI
Intake.
After I had the original intake off I realized that with a 90 degree
v 6, everything is perfectly square. No fancy angles. And with the o-
ring seals on the heads it seemed like a reasonable project to
undertake. Anyway if it failed I could just go back to the stock
intake. But it's such an ugly thing that I really didn't want to give
up.
Anyway, the intake is all aluminum, mostly flat 1/4 inch shaped in a
90 degree V with 6 independent aluminum intake runners whose inside
diameters match the intake ports.
All the CIS wiring, sensors and switches are gone, and it really
cleaned up the engine compartment. While I was at it I also moved my
previously installed EFI ECU trigger from the coil to a Hall effect
sensor on the crank pully. Also installed a new Accell Super Stock
ignition coil.
The intake uses twin throttle bodies from 1990 Ford Tempos. Both
courtesy of the bone yard. Very economical. Idle air valve is
courtesy of a Porsche 914. Injectors are Accell 24 lb high impedence.
Fuel rails are extruded aluminum. All custom. This would not be
possible if I didn't have my own metal working lathe. Although
extruded rails are available from Accell and all you have to do is
have you local machine shop machine the injector seats for you (4 1/4
inch centers....)
Air filter assy is a K&N in an Edlebrock dual quad oval with custom
machined fillers to fit the smaller Ford throttle bodies. TPS is a 3
wire Ford and is a direct bolt on. Engine temp and air temp are from
Simple Digital Systems (along with the ECU) and the MAP sensor is
standard GM 1 bar. (Although you could use the stock Bosch water temp
if you wanted)
With the new intake and the Supertrap I had to bump up the mixture
values from what I used with the stock intake and exhaust about 10%,
so I suspect the engine is breathing a little better. It sounds quite
a bit different. Noticable intake roar under full throttle
acceleration. Still using the stock cat.
Fuel delivery to the filter and then to the fuel rails is all stock
except that I removed the fuel accumulator since it was dirty anyway.
Fuel pressure regulator is a stock Nissan 240 ZX and runs at 43
pounds.
Hope to have it on a Dyno soon to finalize the mixtures and see what
kind of power it makes.
Hope you enjoy the info....
Jim
Vin 6147
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2002 00:44:47 -0000
From: "cpgny9" <cpgny9@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: steering wheel bounce/determinig speedometer problem
Since I purchased my D., the steering wheel bounces and clangs at
high speeds and when I am applying the brake and slowing down. I know
that it needs an allignment cause it pulls to the right, but I think
something else may be going on. After reading some past postings, I
have a feeling that the bushing needs to be replaced, but would that
cause the bouncing when braking? I know that the brakes were
replaced not too long before I purchased the car, so I think that
they are OK. Any suggestions or ideas? Also, my speedometer and
odometer are inactive. I'm sure that it is either the angle drive or
speedo cable. I have access to a lift at my friends car dealership,
so I'm going to put it up and take off the front left wheel. The
only thing is, I'm not exactly sure what I should be looking for to
determine my problem. Does anyone know what I should focus on and the
way that I determine if it is operating correctly or not.
Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated from this new
Delorean owner.
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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2002 19:40:33 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: intermittent signal indicators
hey list,
i have an extremely annoying problem. lately my instrument cluster turn
signal indicators have been on the fritz. seems like every now and then,
one
of the lights will stop working. all of my exterior lights work but for
some
reason the indicators will not flash. i have pulled the binnacle off
about
three times now to check into the problem and it seems like if i take out
the
bulb holder and then put it back in the light will work again. the bulb
holders are in excellent condition and the bulbs have been replaced. i
have
a new PCB board as of last year and all of my connections seem tight. i
even
tried bending the tabs on the holders so they would fit tighter but it
doesn't seem to do any good. does anyone have any idea on what the
problem
is and what i can do to fix it? sometimes if i just ignore the light it
will
come on again in a few hours or couple days.
this problem is super-annoying and i'm getting tired of taking my binnacle
off!!!
please help!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
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