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There are 18 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Tranny filler plug frozen
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
2. Anyone in Oakland,California
From: Sam Phung <sammi_phung2000@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Need C-V joint replacement?
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
4. "TOBY-TAB's" have arrived
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. DeLorean on TV
From: "Ralph Isenberg" <yugoman50@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Carfax
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re: low volts at idle
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
8. Robin Hood Cars/DMC Leather
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Robin Hood Cars WebSite
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
10. RE: Need C-V joint replacement?
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Customizing a DeLorean
From: Darkstar <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
12. No first gear
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
13. Cameron's Airbox & DOC update
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Need C-V joint replacement?
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. RE: Carfax
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Need C-V joint replacement?
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Customizing a DeLorean
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: re: live the dream add -- have a sense of humor..
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 20:28:13 EST
From: Senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Tranny filler plug frozen
I have experienced this before on a car with Auto transmission that has
been stored for many years.
You want to drop the pan and remove the filter and the small filter
gasket. Since you live in the United Kingdom find a Renault parts distributor
and ask for a Renault 30 TX/Ts filter and gasket kit. The American DeLorean
parts and service center has them as well.
Once you have the pan removed,
1) Clean up the old fluid.
2) Spray some "Liquid Wrench on the INSIDE pan threads of the plug, as well
as around the outside diameter.
3) Let "Liquid Wrench" work itself into the threads and SLOWLY use the 3/8
drive to remove the plug...make sure that the "Liquid Wrench" is liberally
applied to the threads...you do not want to strip the pan & plug.
Best Wishes,
Michael R. Pack
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 18:37:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Sam Phung <sammi_phung2000@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Anyone in Oakland,California
Anyone in Oakland,California or near by, please help
me with my DeLorean.
Sammi
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 23:40:32 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Need C-V joint replacement?
I was told earlier that my chirping sound from my passenger
rear wheel is a C-V joint / boot. I know this is a dumb question
but please bear with me- Are the joint and the boot the same thing?
Will replacing this be something my shop can do with standard
parts readily available, or will I have to order from a vendor?
Any help would be great as I would like to fix this in a one day
without having to wait for parts if possible.
Thank you in advance,
Richard
(Still wowing people in Modesto, CA on a regular basis!)
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 07:00:14 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: "TOBY-TAB's" have arrived
Hello List - With the blessing of the Moderator, I am pleased to
announce that the new "TOBY-TAB" trailing arm bolts have arrived at
Darryl Tinnerstets' facility (Specialty Automotive, McCleary,
Washington). Specific details regarding the ordering process will be
forthcoming ... we are working to determine how to best serve those
of you who have been patiently waiting for this. I am putting
together a brief technical handout to be included with each set,
which will include installation hints, and graphical results of the
tensile testing that was done to compare the OEM bolts to the new
TOBY-TAB's. The new bolts have exceeded all expectations for
strength and quality. The design goal was to create a bolt that would
exceed 220,000 PSI ultimate tensile strength, and retain excellent
elongation properties (think opposite of brittle). The TOBY-TAB's
tested out at 245,000 PSI, compared to the OEM bolt at 148,000 PSI
with poorer elongation. You CAN have your cake and eat it too. The
new bolts are also totally corrosion proof. The kit will include two
bolts, all metal self-locking nuts, and hardened washers for length
adjustment. Thank you all for your patience, and I will post
ordering details in the next day or two (again, with the Moderator's
blessing).
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 06:39:11 -0500
From: "Ralph Isenberg" <yugoman50@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean on TV
Sometime back someone caught the end of "Legends of the Road" on ESPN2. I
was watching this yesterday (Packards were featured) and at the end they
said "tomorrows" episode would feature the D. Now our local listing shows
the next episode at 6 PM Monday ( I assume it was made as a weekday show and
maybe all the shows say "tomorrow"). Anyway it might be good to check the
weekend listings as well, but it looks as though it will be on Monday.
On a side note , the 55 Packards they featured, (I think it was a Caribean
convertible) are said to cost about $80,000 if you're in the market for
one. Makes our cars sound like a steal at $20K!
BTW I'm in the Eastern time zone, don't know if that time is correct other
parts of the country!
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 07:30:01 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Carfax
Would anyone with an open carfax report mind running this vin for me?
Thanks!!
VIN# 3VWDB61E0XM814436
Tom Watkins
watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx
#005732
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 07:39:09 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: low volts at idle
You said:
"The quickest thing I found to work is foamy engine
> cleaner. It will take the dirt right off!"
Removing dirt and corrosion on the surface of ground fasteners will not
correct voltage drop problems. To properly clean ground connections or any
electrical connection is to completely remove all fasteners associated with
the connection and to completely clean all mating surfaces.
DMC Joe
DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxxxxx
www.dmc.tv
http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
----- Original Message -----
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2002 8:13 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: low volts at idle
> --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> > The other night I was leaving work, started up the car, and
> before moving,
> > rolled up both windows at the same time. As they reached the
> top, my radio
> > (aftermarket) rebooted. The headlights also dimmed, binacle
> dimmed, etc.
> <SNIP>
> > After letting off the window switches, everything was fine.
> > What options should I explore? New, high power battery? The
> one that's in
> > it now is what came with the car when I bought it a year and a
> half ago.
> > Possibly a new higher power alternator?
> <SNIP>
>
> Before you purchase a single upgrade, you should first clean the
> grounding contacts on your car. You would be amazed at how
> much it helps! The quickest thing I found to work is foamy engine
> cleaner. It will take the dirt right off!
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 13:57:22 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Robin Hood Cars/DMC Leather
For those of you who attended Eurofest, the original Bridge of Weir leather seat covers were purchased by DOC UK from Robin Hood Cars which originally had bought them from DMC Ltd. when they went bankrupt. It seems like Robin Hood Cars purchased "a lot" of DeLorean seat covers which could then be used in their car (which is based on the Lotus 7 or Caterham). I think they use the leather for trimming the interior on their car. From what I know, Robin Hood cars where reluctant to sell any, and sold only "some" of their stock to DOC UK. Which means there are still original seat covers left, but expect to pay a lot to get the rest from them.
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 14:02:14 +0100
From: "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Robin Hood Cars WebSite
For more info go to:
http://www.robinhoodengineering.co.uk/
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 10:14:05 -0600
From: "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Need C-V joint replacement?
Richard - The joint is the flexible parts of the shaft.
The boot is the rubber accordion shaped thing that
seals the joint from dirt and grime. It also retains the
lubricant for the joint. The boot is easy to replace,
but you do need to be careful that you don't tear or cut
it in the process.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx [mailto:RJRavalli@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2002 10:41 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Need C-V joint replacement?
I was told earlier that my chirping sound from my passenger
rear wheel is a C-V joint / boot. I know this is a dumb question
but please bear with me- Are the joint and the boot the same thing?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 09:53:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Darkstar <darkstarmedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Customizing a DeLorean
see in-line comments
--- Sean Spurlock <sean_dmc1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
> Group,
>
> Well, I am finally back on the list and about
> to purchase another
> DeLorean, having sold my first one a few years ago.
> Here are some questions
> for you veteran DeLorean owners. Please don't hate
> me for asking these
> questions!!! I know many of you are purists!
>
> I want to customize my next DeLorean:
>
> 1. Updating engine - DMC Houston can take care of
> that...but any other
> ideas?
>
I am working on upgrades for the PRV-6 that are
reasonable and you can put on your self. i am
thinking of cam, manifold upgrades, and exhaust that
can be purchased in pieces and steps and installed
your self (unlike them Texas folks. I am in the
process of acquiring an engine but if anyone else has
an old engine sitting around that they want to get rid
of let me know. I am going to try for the 200 HP mark.
> 2. Suspension - lowering the car is nice...any
> recommendations on shock and
> struts (or any other improved suspension
> components???
>
I am also looking into this one but the lack of a D
has put this on the back burner a bit. if any one has
a stock set of springs the don't want anymore this
would help (lower the miles the better). also if
someone has a D in the South Bay area that i could
take some measurements on that would be helpful.
>
> 5. Exhaust - IMPORTANT!!! Any idea of a borla or
> performace set up???
see # 1 working on it...
> I am very interested in sharing info on any ideas
> for making the DeLorean
> "better". Obviously, it is already a great car...I
> just want to update it
> more and make it more like the sports car it wants
> to be!!! Let me know if
> any of you have ideas and / or are interested in
> discussing ideas!!! Thanks
> a lot and it is good to be back!!!
>
> Best Wishes,
> Sean Spurlock
> -formerly VIN 7003
>
>
>
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>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 12:33:59 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: No first gear
Dear List,
I took my car in to our usually dependable shop yesterday and it came back
with a problem that wasn’t there when I left it: I can’t shift into first.
Every other gear is perfectly fine, but no first. Well, actually, I can get
first, but only after working through the other gears for a couple of
minutes and eventually getting lucky and getting into first. The only thing
they installed that was transmission-related were transmission mounts (and
yes, both were NOS parts from DMC Houston).
I left the car there for the weekend and I’m hoping you guys can come up
with some suggestions for me to give them on Monday in case they have any
trouble locating the problem.
A quick search of the archives turned up master cylinder problems, fifth
gear grinds, but no first gear problems. And so I look to my fellow owners…
Thanks in advance,
Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club
P.S. As I said, it worked fine when I took it in there, but for the record:
slave and master cylinders are a year old and an upgraded clutch line is
installed.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 21:45:17 -0000
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Cameron's Airbox & DOC update
Hi all,
Just noticed that Martin had uploaded some recent pickies on to the
DeLorean Owners Club Website, there is a pic of the air filter
installed on my car.
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02385.JPG
There are some onther interesting pictures as well as an excellent
example of how to install a fuel baffel ;-)
James RG
England
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Message: 14
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 22:26:41 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need C-V joint replacement?
The boot simply keeps grease in and dirt out of the Joint. A shop
can service the Joint BUT you will have to order parts through a
vendor.
Steve
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> I was told earlier that my chirping sound from my passenger
> rear wheel is a C-V joint / boot. I know this is a dumb question
> but please bear with me- Are the joint and the boot the same thing?
> Will replacing this be something my shop can do with standard
> parts readily available, or will I have to order from a vendor?
> Any help would be great as I would like to fix this in a one day
> without having to wait for parts if possible.
>
> Thank you in advance,
>
> Richard
> (Still wowing people in Modesto, CA on a regular basis!)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 17:30:30 -0500
From: "Jack Stiefel" <jackstiefel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Carfax
If anyone has an open carfax account, please email me privately
Thanks
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
1981 DeLorean Vin 3461 August 1981 Build (Ours)
http://www.sacketmansion.com/delorean
1988 Jaguar XJS-C V-12 (Mine) http://www.sacketmansion.com/jaguar
2001 PT Cruiser (Hers)
Visit us at http://www.sacketmansion.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2002 16:27:52 -0800
From: "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Need C-V joint replacement?
I recently had my outer CV joints and boots replaced. I didnt fell like
waiting for my parts to arrive from a vendor, and my mechanic suggested
using Audi parts... so I did! I have Audi Quatro CV joints and Audi 5000
boots. The only hang up was that the CV boots use a different flange, which
dont allow use of the standard hex head bolts. So I had to order alan head
bolts referred to as "grade 8 cap screws".
My car was also making a chirp sound, and I did see the CV joints, and they
were obviously beat up. However after replacement my car still makes its
chirp sound, and I believe it is caused by the brakes some how. Members of
the board recommended conditioning the pads and rotors with sand paper and
then cleaning with brake cleaner. So you may want to try this before you
replace your CVs which is expensive.
Adam 16683
>From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Need C-V joint replacement?
>Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2002 23:40:32 EST
>
>I was told earlier that my chirping sound from my passenger
>rear wheel is a C-V joint / boot. I know this is a dumb question
>but please bear with me- Are the joint and the boot the same thing?
>Will replacing this be something my shop can do with standard
>parts readily available, or will I have to order from a vendor?
>Any help would be great as I would like to fix this in a one day
>without having to wait for parts if possible.
>
>Thank you in advance,
>
>Richard
>(Still wowing people in Modesto, CA on a regular basis!)
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 17
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2002 19:02:22 -0600
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Customizing a DeLorean
I'm not trying to put anyone down here and I must admit nothing in the post
below indicates there isn't the talent to accomplish what's said
there but I feel compelled to comment because I guess it makes it sound too
easy. I had the chance, a while back, to spend a weekend with Mark Vieau
whose shop builds Winston Cup and Bush National engines for several NASCAR
teams, and Larry Boeker who builds Pro Stock drag engines for Reher
Morrison. One question I asked was how they justify a $125,000 price tag for
one of their engines. Larry invited me to visit his shop's back room
sometime to see the store house of parts used in trying to find just the
right combination. These guys have thousands of hours and decades of
experience in learning the particular characteristics of the various
engines they work with. Even so there is still trial and error involved in
adapting them to certain race track conditions. One example is airflow
though the engine's intake. Sometimes more is not better because velocity
plays an equally important role in engine performance. Changing the profile
of a camshaft requires, among other things, knowing how much valve overlap
is needed to maintain the best velocity of the incoming air without loosing
some though the exhaust ports. How much lift works for a particular engine
and what RPM range are you looking to gain power in. Improving one area of
the engines range may reduce power or overall performance in another. "The
folks in Texas", as they were called below, and others like Rob Grady and Don Steger have years of experience with the DeLorean and even so I'm sure they have many hours in testing and experimenting before they have something they're comfortable with to offer their customers. I always have to question when anyone claims to do this without that experience and facility. When I hear folks claim they're going to do this or that without presenting their credentials I get really skeptical. As I said, many of the posts like this don't indicate a lack of experiance but nether do they present it. If you take a shot at someone by stating that you'll do something better then give us something that can substatiate that claim.
Bruce Benson
> I am working on upgrades for the PRV-6 that are
> reasonable and you can put on your self. i am
> thinking of cam, manifold upgrades, and exhaust that
> can be purchased in pieces and steps and installed
> your self (unlike them Texas folks. I am in the
> process of acquiring an engine but if anyone else has
> an old engine sitting around that they want to get rid
> of let me know. I am going to try for the 200 HP mark.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 19:55:16 -0800
From: Trevor Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: re: live the dream add -- have a sense of humor..
I don't know how well you take care of your car, but we have two
DeLoreans and for over 4 years now, have never had one of them not start.
If your car is maintained properly, it should operate effortlessly.
Trevor Johnson
www.deloreancars.homestead.com
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