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There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. fan troubles pt 2
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
2. Michelon Pilot Tires(was Last call for Yokos)
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
3. Re: More fan troubles
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
4. SS facias . . . need your help!
From: sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Re: fuse #5 refuses to live
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
6. Re: More fan troubles
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
7. Windshield washers
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
8. Using LED panel lights
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: fuse #5 refuses to live
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
10. Delorean Pilot
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Rear Shocks
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
12. GVWR discrepancy
From: Joshieloo@xxxxxxx
13. Re: Dimensions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
14. Re: fain fail
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: fuse #5 refuses to live
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: "Carb Bowl" nozzle..
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
17. Tire ratings, Cooper Cobra G/T, and Yokos
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
18. Advice
From: nick@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. anyone get their bras back from Colgan?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
20. Twin Turbo Delorean 4 sale
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Twin Turbo Delorean 4 sale
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
22. Re: GVWR discrepancy
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: Delorean Pilot
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Looking for an Alternator
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: GVWR discrepancy
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 21:39:09 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: fan troubles pt 2
Hi,
This fan problem is really driving me crazy. I have found that if I keep
a steady speed at around 55 the fans will come on and not shut off for a few
minutes. If I decrease my speed down to about 40-45 the fans will shut right
off and everything is fine. I cannot figure it out. that makes absolutely
NO sense to me or anyone else. heres a recap on whats been done, new
otterstat, new hoses under manifold,new fan & fan fail fix, Grady thermostat,
System pressure tested great, and the auto bleeder from DMC Joe.
The water pump is not leaking at all and the pulley has no movement at
all. I checked it out good when I replaced the hoses under the manifold.
The only other thing I can think of is something is restricting flow through
the radiator.(even though It only has 18k miles) I will probably remove myne
and have it cleaned sometime next week. Before I go ahead and do this can
anyone think of any other possibilities.
Thanks
david
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:10:13 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Michelon Pilot Tires(was Last call for Yokos)
If the supply of the AVS Intermediates are becoming "unobtainum" don't
worry. There are several brands of tires for the DeLorean.
In addition, if Yokohama has discontinued the tire, the company will more
than likely introduce a better tire than the AVS.
I bet that many original owners were concerned when Goodyear discontinued
the NCT radial. (maybe not)
Try the Michelin Pilot. At our last DMC tech social, Harold McElcraft had
them on his DeLorean. At his recommendation I purchased a complete set for my
Acura. The Michelin Pilot is a great tire.
Sincerely,
Michael Pack
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 22:45:23 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: More fan troubles
Travis, Someone in the past has wired them that way. You will have to track
it down as to how they did it. Diagram is on the web site if you need it. The
otterstat could be jumped or bad and shut closed.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 03:45:50 -0000
From: sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: SS facias . . . need your help!
It's me again. No, i didn't fall off the earth, just had a lot to do
lately. I've recently moved, and am just now getting settled in. My
web page has become a casualty of neglect as of this too. BUT now
that things seem to be settling down, the car beacons!
A lot has happened with Darren, my fabricator. He has finally gotten
his new machines in and already has my two facias to make templates.
He is planning on making a test pattern out of light steel to get the
final product a working model, however, there is a fork in the road-
cost vs. accuracy.
I personally will do this project even if no one else does so i'm
leaning toward accuracy, but, i'm not Bill Gates either! His
origional idea is still the same as the beginning. to keep the costs
down (estimates remain within 50% of the plastic/rubber ones) they
will be "respectable representations" not perfect copies. He says
they will be very close, but not exact.
Quick pool to all that are truly interested in getting these SS
facias: (aside from the obvious "at least make them look like a
DeLorean piece" which is the goal)
What would be the best?
1. exact copies no matter what the cost.
2. really good to the point that you would have to pull another
DeLorean next to it to tell the differences at a price that will more
that likely be around 50% more than replacements. (my choice)
3. as good as it can for the same price as replacements.
I cannot go any farther in this until I get feedback from those that
may be effected by this choice (i think it only fair those wanting
these have a say). Let me know asap so this won't grind to a halt!
skipper landry
baton rouge,la.
vin #10246
(if your going to be near here on Saturdays, let me know, then stop
by!)
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 03:55:51 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuse #5 refuses to live
This could be the sign of a very deep problem in the dash wiring.
Before you tear into it though check the otterstadt switch and see if
it is grounding or if the wiring going to it is damaged. Refer to
M:18:10 in your workshop manual, the cooling fan circuit gets it's
control power from the #5 fuse also. It may take a while to get all of
the "gremlins" out of the car but eventually it CAN be made into a
reliable daily driver. In the process you may have to go over previous
work and undo all of the "fixes" that have been done before you but it
can be done. In most cases I recomend just going over the whole car
from the front to the back repairing or replacing all of the 20 year
old rubber hoses, belts, fuel parts, ignition parts, ALL fluids,
checking all electrical connections etc,etc. Make sure that all of the
updates and recalls have been done and I would install at least the
Fanzilla and Lockzilla. If you attempt to repair the car one problem
at a time as they come up you will be disappointed when it leaves you
stuck. The two areas I would concentrate on are the cooling system and
the electrical system after replacing the trailing arm bolts and doing
a 4 wheel alignment.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> This morning I left for work, and just a block away, the volt gauge
> dropped to 0, the battery light came on, tach shot up to 100%
clockwise -
> past 80, the battery light flickered and went off. I got back home
and
> found that the #5 fuse had blown again.
>
> Why would this keep happening? The DeLorean is my daily driver. It's
also
> the only car I have in California. Is the car safe to drive, or is
this a
> symptom of a deeper electrical problem that could affect other
circuits?
>
> -Christian
>
> PS. Has anyone ever had their car run for a whole week without
breaking?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 04:06:15 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: More fan troubles
There are several reasons the fans could be running constantly.
Whithout knowing what the condition of your wiring is or what relays
have been changed I am only guessing. First pull one of the wires off
the otterstadt switch located on a coolant pipe on the left side of
the engine. If that stops the fans then just replace it. (Make sure
the clip is on it and also replace the seal and NEVER use silicon on
it.) If that doesn't stop the fans you could have a stuck relay or
maybe someone just rewired the car. You could try pulling the fan
relay but that won't tell you anything. You will have to troubleshoot
the circuit using M:18:10. If you have the blue fan fail relay either
install the jumper or get a Fanzilla. Make sure you have the upgraded
circuit breaker and all of the connections are clean and tight.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx> wrote:
> I've been following everyone's fan troubles for a while now and I
haven't
> seen anyone with my exact problem, so I thought I'd speak up. My
fans stay
> on ALL the time. I stepped out last night late just to test (the car
hand't
> been driven all day) and turned the key... sure emeough. The fans
came on.
> I'm thinking it's a bad coolant switch, but could it also be the
thermostat?
>
> If these fans are on during cranking, could they drain the battery
enough to
> make it difficult to start? Since I noticed this problem the car has
been
> difficult to start.
>
> Thanks
>
> Travis
> #3512
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 04:43:27 -0000
From: nickbrom@xxxxxxx
Subject: Windshield washers
For the first time since purchasing my Delorean, I hit the "washer"
button. Much to my suprise, I got a single spray of fluid straight up
in the air in the middle of the windshield.
Question: In the parts manaul, it looks as though there is only one
washer nozzle. Is this true? And what can you folks tell me about the
mounting of the tubing and nozzle? I have ordered the parts I need (I
think), but I'm not sure of the installation since I have no other
d's to reference to.
Thanks!
Nick
VIN 3092
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2001 01:38:55 -0500
From: "Mark Hershey" <dmcinfo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Using LED panel lights
I converted my dash panel lamps over to LEDs two years ago. Installation is
completely reversable. Made a tin plate that exactly matches the outline of
the back of the Plexiglas panel, punched big holes to clear the headlight
and emergency switches and various small holes to clear switch shafts, etc,
and punched about 20 1/4 inch holes to mount LEDs scattered about for even
lighting. Used a ring of red ones around part of the A/C temp dial, blue
ones around the dial's blue part, and white scattered around elsewhere. Used
560 ohm series resistors (I think) to drop voltage and a Radio Shack 5V
regulator IC (drops 12-14 VDC to constant 5VDC) to feed the LEDs. Just
removed and saved the original lamps.
Effect is striking...
Now I'm thinking a good winter project is to add 1/8" diameter flourescent
light in the gauge cluster (above the upper light "vents" for more white
light on the gauge faces. These are the same 6-9" or so long lamps used to
backlight laptop computer screens. Requires an inverter module; cost about
$5 for the lamp and $8-12 for the inverter.
//Mark
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 05:56:42 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: fuse #5 refuses to live
Christian,
#1. How many miles are on the car.
#2. Has the service interval counter been set back to ( 0 ).
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 07:34:15 -0400
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean Pilot
Has anyone heard from Fred lately? I know he was moving some time ago
and had many items in storage. I must have deleted the email from him
responding to my inquiring about a purchase. Hey Fred, if you are out
there give me a shout via private email if you have a chance.
Thanks
Tom
#005732 MT
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 08:13:58 EDT
From: Dmc3360@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Rear Shocks
Mike,
If you are looking for an upgrade to your shocks, I highly recommend PJ
Gradys new shocks. If you are looking to replace only the rear ones you can
do that as well. In fact their rear shocks have adjustable collars on them
too, so you can set them to your preference. I have all four of their new
shocks on my car and the ride is superb. Also Mid States sells a very nice
set of shocks as well I believe. Hope this helps.
www.pjgrady.com
www.midstatesdmc.com
Gary Gore
VIN 3360
> Is there an easy way to put shocks on the rear of my D. It was riding really
> rough and I decided to check to see if they were worn out. BIG MISTAKE, I
> also never got the spring compressed enough to get the shocks back on the
> car.
>
> The shocks were not worn out but were really stiff, too stiff. That was what
> was causing the really rough ride. What's the best shock to put back on the
> car. I don't want to put the OE shock back on.
>
> Thanks,
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 12:01:57 EDT
From: Joshieloo@xxxxxxx
Subject: GVWR discrepancy
List,
While at the Marcus Dairy Cruise Night in Danbury, Connecticut, I noticed
something that was of particular interest to me. We had three DeLorean at the
show, an early '81 (my car) a late '81 (around VIN 6800) and an '83 (16509
owned by Frank Ehrismann). I happen to be checking out the VIN's of the other
two cars and it came to my attention that the GVWR of the two '81's were
listed at 3,180# and the '83 was listed at 3,244#.
Has anyone ever noticed this before. More importantly, is there an
explanation as to the additional 64#'s for the '83? I'm not sure of the GVWR
for 1982 models, but would suspect it to be the same as the '83.
Keep in mind, all three cars were manual shift, NOT automatics. Any ideas?
Any answers?
Joshua Schwartz
001292
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 11:15:57 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Dimensions
Height: 13mm (5 1/4")
Width: 28.3mm (11 1/8")
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Martin Gutkowski
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: [DML] Dimensions
Hi there,
I have a very quick question for someone with a DeLorean parked outside... could
you give me the exact dimensions of the licence plate holder at the back in mm
please? By this I mean the outside edges of the largest licence plate that will
fit in the "hole".
Don't all rush at once :-)
Thanks
Martin
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 12:19:25 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fain fail
I have never seen a wiring diagram for the ill fated Fan Fail module. I have a box full of modules that I have removed over the years. If you are interested in acquiring one contact me directly.
PS: Just in case you're thinking about what's inside, don't get too excited. The module only contains two resistors and a coil.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Foster
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 5:59 PM
Subject: [DML] fain fail
Hey list
Does anyone have a copy of the blue fain fail moduile wiring diagram?
The one that shouldn't be in your car. Thanks!
Ryan- vin.#16301
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 12:23:27 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: fuse #5 refuses to live
Check for a possible short circuit at the following components and or locations:
Yellow/black wire connected to alternator
"Door Open" warning lamp (AC panel)
*Service interval counter (Lambda)
*Connections to cooling fans switch (otterstat)
Instrument cluster multi-pin plug (green wire)
The use of a test meter will aid in locating the problem.
*check to see if wire has come in contact with exhaust manifold causing melting of insulation resulting in an intermittent short circuit.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Christian Williams
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 2:45 PM
Subject: [DML] fuse #5 refuses to live
This morning I left for work, and just a block away, the volt gauge
dropped to 0, the battery light came on, tach shot up to 100% clockwise -
past 80, the battery light flickered and went off. I got back home and
found that the #5 fuse had blown again.
Why would this keep happening? The DeLorean is my daily driver. It's also
the only car I have in California. Is the car safe to drive, or is this a
symptom of a deeper electrical problem that could affect other circuits?
-Christian
PS. Has anyone ever had their car run for a whole week without breaking?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 12:05:23 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "Carb Bowl" nozzle..
The "carb bowl" designation is used in carberated engine applications only (not DeLorean). Leaving the cap off will reduce fuel vapor reclamation but will not effect engine performance. If you want to be kind to the environment you should cap the spigot. Rubber caps for the foregoing application are available at most auto supply stores.
DMC Joe
www.dmc.tv
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
----- Original Message -----
From: Hank Eskin
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 3:31 PM
Subject: [DML] "Carb Bowl" nozzle..
Hello All,
Today, I set out to fix my loose power antenna bracket.. and upon
removing the charcoal canister, there was a dry-rotted rubber cap on a
fitting on the top of the canister labeled "CARB BOWL". The rubber cap was
too rotted to keep... so my question is, should I find a replacement? Does
it serve any purpose? What happens if I leave it off?
Thanks in advance,
-Hank #1619
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 13:00:14 -0400
From: Jim Strickland <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Tire ratings, Cooper Cobra G/T, and Yokos
I've found that the UTQG rating (ie, 440 A B) on tires is just about
completely useless. Also, there is a misconception about 'soft' and
'hard' rubber compounds. I believe that for traction and temperature,
the rating is A-B-C, and if you start looking around, 90% of passenger
tires have a traction rating A. Temperature ratings seem to vary a
little bit more. The fact that a 160 treadwear and a 440 treadwear have
the same traction rating is ridiculous. I honestly believe that the wear
indicator is correct; ie, the tire with the 440 rating will last about 3
times longer than the 160 under the same conditions. I've always
considered a 'soft' tire to have a shorter life becuase the rubber tends
to leave itself on the road instead of staying on the tire. This is not
a good choice of words. If you physically feel the 440 and 160 tires,
the 440 will feel much softer and more malliable to the touch. This will
last longer on the road becuase it will bend and fold during cornering,
whereas the 160 tire will not move laterally unless it breaks traction.
I just bought some firehawk tires- (500 A B), and I've found that the car
is not as responsive as I'd like- instead of tracking (at higher speeds),
the car just sorta meanders in the 'yaw' direction (side to side). On
the other hand, the 440 (and 500) tires should perform much better in the
snow (and probably rain) than than 160 treadwear tires....
Hope this helps someone looking at tires....
Jim 1537
PS- anyone know a good rim repair/ powder coater in new england?
________________________________________________________________
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 18:58:20 -0000
From: nick@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Advice
Hi There
I'm sure this problem has been dealt with many times, but if someone
could point me to the relative thread I would much appreciate it.
I think it may come under 'Hot Start' Problem. It goes something like
this. When the car is cold it will start no problem, a little lumpy
at first, but kicks in and runs fine. It'll drive fine. Stop and
start relatively immediately and no problems either. Let it sit for
20 -30 Minutes and try, it kicks in exceptionally briefly and stalls,
and will then refuse to start for at least ten minutes ( like it is
flooded). Can anyone point me in the right direction
Thanks
Nick
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:33:28 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: anyone get their bras back from Colgan?
Hey all,
has anyone who returned their nose bra to Colgan for embossing received them
back yet? i followed all the instructions but it hasn't shown up at my
house. it's been a few weeks, hasn't it?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 19:36:13 -0000
From: delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Twin Turbo Delorean 4 sale
There is a Twin Turbo Delorean for sale at a place called Dan
Pfieffer here in Grand Rapids, Michigan. It is posted on ebay right
now. I live 5 minutes from Dan Pfieffer and I will be checking this
out sometime this week. The car has never been titled and only has
9,000 on the clock. If anyone is seriously interested in this, I
will help you out as best I can to get info.
Erik
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:09:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: E Grauff <datamonk@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Twin Turbo Delorean 4 sale
Sounds pretty interesting - so did he use dealer plates to rack up 9000
miles w/o title?
On Tue, 31 Jul 2001 delorean502@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> There is a Twin Turbo Delorean for sale at a place called Dan
> Pfieffer here in Grand Rapids, Michigan. It is posted on ebay right
> now. I live 5 minutes from Dan Pfieffer and I will be checking this
> out sometime this week. The car has never been titled and only has
> 9,000 on the clock. If anyone is seriously interested in this, I
> will help you out as best I can to get info.
>
> Erik
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:19:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: GVWR discrepancy
--- Joshieloo@xxxxxxx wrote:
GVWR
> of the two '81's were
> listed at 3,180# and the '83 was listed at 3,244#.
> Has anyone ever noticed this before. More
> importantly, is there an
> explanation as to the additional 64#'s for the '83?
- - - - - - - - -
One of the joys(?) of DeLorean ownership is trying to
determine accurate statistics about the car. My 83
shows 3244# gross vehicle weight. The owners manual
that came with my 81 shows a "curb weight w/full fuel
tank" of 2743 lbs. So, does gross vehicle wieght
include passengers? Two 200 lb. passengers?????
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:21:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dick Ryan <deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Pilot
--- Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone heard from Fred lately? I know he was
> moving some time ago
> and had many items in storage. I must have deleted
> the email from him
> responding to my inquiring about a purchase. Hey
> Fred, if you are out
> there give me a shout via private email if you have
> a chance.
- - - - - - - - - - I, too, would like to hear from
Fred Lockett when he has a chance.
Dick Ryan
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Make international calls for as low as $.04/minute with Yahoo! Messenger
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 15:45:40 -0700
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Looking for an Alternator
I need a Motorola 90 alternator for a current project, anyone have one
for sale?
Thanks,
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2001 18:51:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: GVWR discrepancy
On Tue, 31 Jul 2001, Dick Ryan wrote:
> tank" of 2743 lbs. So, does gross vehicle wieght
> include passengers? Two 200 lb. passengers?????
Gross vehicle weight is the maximum weight the car is rated to carry. So
it would include two people and a full "load" of "luggage."
________________________________________________________________________
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