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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Fuel system question - electical
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
2. A/c fixes
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Beware Turtle Wax!
From: aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx
4. Re: rain leak over sun visor
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
5. Leaky Doors (long)
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
6. e-bay cars (was DMC Prices)
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: 4th speed fan switch
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
8. Re: First Drive in my DeLorean
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: Houston Floods
From: "Jack Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: auto trans governor (NOS)
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
11. Freon 12 costs
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Houston Flooding (and the DMC Open House)
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: need an appraisal
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: DMC Prices
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
15. Re: hyperactive antenna
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
16. Re: N. Carolina show (was Tach to Speed chart)
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: DMC Prices
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
18. AUTO trans update
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
19. RE: rain leak
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: 4th speed fan switch
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: hyperactive antenna
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
22. Re: rain leak
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. sitting D FOR SALE
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
24. Re: N. Carolina show (was Tach to Speed chart)
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Nationality of DeLorean
From: Grigor Maksudyan <delorean66@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:45:51 -0000
From: srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Fuel system question - electical
Ok, as of now I have been working on my fuel system and I am in the
process of testing everything. Now my question is this... In the
workshop manual D:04:14 it states that if a DWELL meter is connected
to the Diagnostic plug pin that is connected to terminal 17 of the
ECU module (which is the orange wire) I can measure the pulses cycle
signal off of it for the Frequency valve. I am doing that I am
setting my DWELL meter to a 6-cylinder setting and I am reading it
off the scale (high end)! I hear my frequency valve going also. If I
am correct in assuming that the pulse signal measured from this point
should be approx 45 degrees than something is wrong with my system!
Could it be I have a faulty O2 sensor? a Rich CO mixture? I placed a
meter on the O2 sensor to measure the voltage (mV) and I get a 700mV
reading....I know normal operation should be around 500mV. I guess
this means that I have a Rich CO setting then? I tried to "lean" it
out...but it doesn't affect anything electrically (Duty cycle or mV
reading on the meter from the O2). Is it safe to say that it's a bad
O2 sensor? One thing I have not checked (which is my next test) is
taking readings off the O2 sensor when the engine is cold (just
started).
I hope not since it's new. I am testing my CPR valve but so far it
seems good (using a Bosch fuel pressure gauge). I have checked for
vacuum leaks and I did not find any. I rechecked all of my vacuum
hose connections and they are all going to the right places. The
problem I am having is that the engine backfires in the exhaust when
I rev the engine, that's why I am performing these tests. Timing is
set at 13 degrees TDC, all new ignition components minus the coil.
Fuel pressure measured from the center of the fuel distrib (where it
goes to the CPR) 75lbs (5 Bar).
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 16:59:22 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: A/c fixes
Dear List,
I need to fix my a/c. I am having a hard time finding r-12 and was wondering if anyone knows of the conversion kit to change to R-134? What should I do? If I stay with r-12 and there is a leak, I could be out some serious cash. but switching to r-134 sounds like the right thing to do. any drawbacks.
Thanks
Sweating in the D
Joseph
vin 2850
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:07:43 -0000
From: aaron_t_graham@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Beware Turtle Wax!
I recently saw a metal polisher in the store, a new Turtle Wax
wheel/metal polish. It mentioned on the bottle that it would polish
chrome, stainless steel, aluminum, etc. So I took it home and tried
it on a small patch of the roof of the car. I applied it, let it dry
and buffed it. It looked OK.
So I applied it to the hood of the car, let it dry and buffed it.
Unfortunately, it leaves a gummy white substance in the small
crevaces of the brushed texture of the metal. It's only visible from
some angles, which is probably why I didn't notice it when I tried it
on the roof of the car.
I tried acetone, mineral spirits, buffing and washing to try to
remove the substance. I figure it will eventually wear off, but it
looks like it's going to take a long time. Beware Turtle Wax! Until
then, does anybody know how to remove the stuff?
Aaron
#01506
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:39:32 EDT
From: deloreanernst@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: rain leak over sun visor
In a message dated 6/12/01 9:39:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> i've got a leak, but doesn't seem to be the door seals, in fact i
> thought it was the windshield, but it doesnt seem like water could
> get up under the ridge. the leak (as far as i can tell, although
> water does tend to be sneaky) is up at the very front of the car on
> the passenger side about 3 inches in from the edge of the sun visor
> that is closest to the center of the car (puddled on the top of the
> sun visor today).
>
> anyone seen this? any ideas?
>
>
Yeah, I had this too. I gather it happened while the car was parked? It's
not uncommon. The headliner material can be cut just a tad too long when
installed, so that little strips of it cross the door lip under the door
gasket, and peek out under the gasket into the gutter. These soak up water
which will spread into the headliner. It's amazing how much water will
siphon down into the car. It will actually drip. The cure: peel you door
gaskets up off the door lip, and look for little strips of muddy headliner
ends trailing into the gutter. Trim them off with a small, sharp pair of
scissors. Not too much, you need to have enough material to grip the door
lip. But enough to keep the outer edge up out of the gutter water. Worked
for me.
Wayne A, Ernst
DMCTech Group
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:08:44 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Leaky Doors (long)
The location where you're describing the leak was one of the worst on
my car. If you look at how the metal on the door curves to accomadate
the front torsion bar hinge, you can see why. Here's a quick overview
of how the drainage system works on the doors alone to help you
understand the problems that occur, so that the solutions will make
more sense. Plus you'll find out what makes the gullwing doors on the
DeLorean so unique!
The gullwing doors consist of 3 seal types: Inner seals (snaped),
outer seals (glued), and "spray" seals (bolted). All 3 are made from
rubber.
Inner door seals are made to keep the passenger compartment sealed.
This is the main seal which runs the entire peremiter of the door.
Below the inner seals, the glassfibre underbody has been designed as
a gutter the channel waterdown the sides of the car, and out along
the rocker panels. Inner seals are outside the passenger compartment,
but behind the door panel.
Outer door seals are located to sit between the outer door and body
panels. This seal is designed to keep as much water as possible out
of the gutters (also to possibly reduce wind noise). The outer seal
only seals the sides of the doors.
Spray seals are located at the top between the door and the T panel,
and at the bottom between the door and the rocker panel. The top seal
in important because it keeps as much water as possible out of the
gutters, and off the torsion bar (mainly while parked). The bottom
seal is equaly important as it prevents road spray from the wheel
from forcing it's way up against the inner seals (while driving).
Water can enter the gutter from the top gaps between the upper spray
seal and the outer seal. The gap between the outer seal and the lower
spary seal is where water in the gutter drains out.
Here are the commom areas where the doors are prone to leaks, and
what you need to do to waterproof your DeLorean by way of
fixing/preventing them.
1. Headliners...
Even if you have a perfectly good rubber seal, headliners can
circumvent that seal to cause a leak. The problem is that when the
headliners are cut, the edges can be cut too long. What happens is
the cloth will be pinched around the rubber door seal, and can access
the gutter. When this happens, the cloth can 'wick' water into the
passenger compartment. Think of an oil lamp, and how the oil makes
it's up up the wick against gravity. Water will be sucked up thru the
cloth, and will drip inside.
Solution: Lift the inner seal up, and trim back all cloth accordingly
with a pair of scisors.
2. Poorly Seated Seals...
When installing the seals, you have to let the doors 'seat'
themselves. When placing a new seal onto the car, most people will
push the rubber down snugly as far as it can go. This is wrong. You
can push the rubber down below where the door stops. This will create
an open gap where water will flow thru.
Solution: When replacing the seal, only push the rubber down far
enough so it can maintain a temporary grip. When you have the
complete seal in place, simply close the door. The door will only
push the rubber down as far as it needs to. With good rubber, you can
create the pefect seal each time.
3. Damaged seals...
Over time seals can become cracked or damaged due to age, useage, or
both. This cracked or torn seals will create gaps where water can
leak thru. Worn rubber will lose it's plyability. This makes it less
flexable, and keeps from from sealing against the door properly. Plus
where the rubber twists (i.e. windshield angles), the rubber
Solution: To get the most out of your door seals, try rotating the
inner seals. Swap both seals from side to side. This will allow the
flexable ramaining parts of the rubber to take the tight upper
twists. Just keep the seam twards the front of the door where it's
least vulnerable to water. For craked and torn rubber, I reccomend
instant gasket material. In itself, the instant gasket is just like
rubber the you can form and mold as to how you want it. You can use
it to reattach torn rubber, or you can rebuild missing gaps entirely.
You won't win any concourse competitions with it, but it sure does
the job. The instant gasket can also be used as an adhesive to
reattach the outer seals if they have come loose over time.
There are more areas still when it comes to water proofing the
DeLorean. But this is only meant to be a quick write up for the
doors. But I can tell you with full confidence that these procedures
have worked for me. I regularly powerwash my car, and I have no leaks!
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jake@xxxx wrote:
>
> well the car was outside today and we had some pretty average rain.
>
> i've got a leak, but doesn't seem to be the door seals, in fact i
> thought it was the windshield, but it doesnt seem like water could
> get up under the ridge. the leak (as far as i can tell, although
> water does tend to be sneaky) is up at the very front of the car on
> the passenger side about 3 inches in from the edge of the sun
visor
> that is closest to the center of the car (puddled on the top of the
> sun visor today).
>
> anyone seen this? any ideas?
>
> jake
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 19:33:07 -0400
From: "Michael C. Babb" <michael@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: e-bay cars (was DMC Prices)
Just for another side of the issue. I sold my DeLorean this past December
after listing it on e-bay. The auction never went all of the way through as
I got a side offer and decided to not chance seeing the auction all of the
way through an getting less (even though it is possible that I could have
gotten more). I think that one of the reasons that I got a lot of
high-quality bids on the car is that I went out of my way to provide as much
information on the car as possible as well as a link to over 100 pictures of
the car. . .no way I would buy one where the entire description is
"DeLorean" (or worse yet, delorane or some other variant as I have seen).
I would personally be interested in hearing other people's accounts of
either buying or selling DeLorean's through e-bay. Tyler, let us know how
it was from a buyers perspective (especially if you though the car was
miss-represented).
Cheers!
Michael C. Babb
Former VIN 3472 :)
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:51:05 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 4th speed fan switch
Check your 4th fan speed relay. It may be bad.
Change your 3rd & 4th fan speed relays around
& see if your 3rd fan speed then doesn't work.
John Yeoman
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:49:28 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: First Drive in my DeLorean
Hi James
First off calling the device which controlls the gear-change in an Auto DeLorean
like yours a "computer" is like calling a lump of wood with four wheels a "car".
From what I remember it's about as simple as you can get. It simply reads off a
voltage from a dynamo spun by the transmission and when (through a resistor
network) a certain voltage is reached, a transistor fires the solenoid(s) to
change the gear. There are of course two shift points.
DO NOT think about replacing the computer, you'd be wasting $400 on a problem
probably caused by a part you can buy from Maplin for 20p. I know for a fact Bob
(the previous owner) used to have to jump-start that car and did it without
unplugging the CG. This can cause voltage spikes to hit the transistors which
shift the gears. I would bet you need to replace (one of) them. Somewhere in the
archives there's instructions on putting a couple of diodes in the box to
protect the transistors when jumping the car.
If/when my friend and I bring these two D's over, he was really tickled by the
idea of "fiddling" the CG on the auto (mine's a manual) such that you can vary
the shift points with a knob on the centre console. You can also use the
kick-down switch to extend the rev range over which the tranny stays in gear,
and even implement a semi-automatic shifter. The electronics are gloriously
simple, but we are thinking of replacing it with a proper PIC to do all this for
you, and more...
(waffle mode off)
Martin
JamesRG wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Thanks for all the info on my question about the CG and tranny fluid etc.
> <snip>
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 18:10:03 -0400
From: "Jack Stiefel" <stiefel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Houston Floods
I am not trying to give DMC Houston a free commercial, but they do have a
live web cam that shows live feed 7am-7pm. The link is
http://www.delorean.com/english/more/News/WebCam/webcam.asp
Hope this clears things up a bit
Jack & Virginia Stiefel
'81 DeLorean Vin 03461 Aug.1981 NYS Lic:1981 DMC
'97 Red BMW Z3 Convertible 6 cyl, not the baby 4
'99 Ford Expedition 4x4 Eddie Bauer Edition
'01 Black PT Cruiser Limited w/Flames
Visit us at www.sacketmansion.com
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 16:59:08 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: auto trans governor (NOS)
I don't know of anyone selling NOS trans computers, at least not in any
quantity. We sell remanufactured ones and the failure rate has been nil.
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
> most of it stays inside it and the torque converter. The shift
> computer may eventually go bad but even a 20 year old NOS computer
> will funtion better than on that has been in service. It can be
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 19:36:45 -0400
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Freon 12 costs
I just paid $34.99 for a 12oz can of freon 12. That's almost double of what I paid last year.
Dave Sontos
VIN 02573
NRA Member
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:31:12 -0600
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Houston Flooding (and the DMC Open House)
[MODERATOR NOTE: Please consider this post to be the end of the thread. This week the DML has received so many messages expressing concern for the folks in Houston that we could not approve them all.]
All is well at De Lorean Motor Company, we suffered no problems except a few
minor roof leaks. Dee Moats already mentioned his car suffered a possible
"total" loss on his car, but we have yet to hear of any other local DeLorean
owners suffering any losses.
Work on the new facility slowed a bit as a result of the weather, but should
be back up to speed later this week. Registrations for the Open House are
being limited to 150 persons, and I encourage anyone who is considering
coming not to delay in registering or reserving a hotel room. Check the URL
below for details...
http://www.delorean.com/openhouse.asp
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
>
> Is everyone at DMC and the surrounding Houston Texas vicinity OK? The
> news reports show serious flooding and loss.
>
> My prayers are with all of you.
>
> Sincerely,
> Mike Pack
> DOA 4743
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:24:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: need an appraisal
PJ Grady has one for 50K..... use that.
I have my insured through hagerty with a 50K policy on
it - just had to show them pictures of it.
Mike
--- jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> anyone know of the closest place to Melrose MA that
> i can get an
> insurance appraisal for my D?
[moderator snip]
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:07:44 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
In a message dated 06/12/2001 4:20:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
deloreanbiker@xxxxxxxxx writes:
<< On the one hand, BTTF made our
cars very recognizable to a whole new generation of
potential owners. On the other hand, those movies
trivialized our cars to the point of making them
appear as a "Disney-like" creation. Thus, not to be
taken seriously as a collector/special car. >>
Oh come on!
Just say, "It's the only car tough enough to be a time machine." Then ask
"was your car ever in a movie?"
In my opinion the FBI sting and the drug connection hurt the car more than
the low esteem that the movie made.
No matter if it is a DMC, Rolls Royce, or NSX, people will find a fault with
something on the car. Just the other day I heard, "have any gray pupon?"
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:09:27 EDT
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: hyperactive antenna
In a message dated 06/12/2001 4:21:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Driving yesterday I could hear this "click-click-click" as I drove, so
I turned off the radio to hear better. Hmmm, sound went away, oh
well. I turned the radio back on, and the noise came back! I
repeated this a few times before I concluded that my power antenna was
not shutting off once it reached the top if it's travel. >>
The same story is going on over at the NSX technical email list. The antenna
clicks when the motor and mast are out of alignment, or the mast is getting
ready to fail.
Sincerely,
Mike Pack
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:14:04 -0400
From: "Sean Howley" <tsuyoi@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: N. Carolina show (was Tach to Speed chart)
Walt and all,
Rob Starling did mention to the list some time back (not sure when, but can
look up in the archives) that this show was coming up. Sorry you missed it.
Sean Howley
VIN#2345
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 17:36:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC Prices
I get the exact opposite here, people who scope out my
car think it's 50-70K for price... I don't let them
know any different...
I'll tell you another thing about Ebay - people there
are EXPECTING a cheap deal.... we sell Office XP -
retails for $579.. for the heck of it, I put one up,
it went to $250..... the GOING rate is $579.... people
who are using Ebay for reference need to get a clue,
it's an auction, you also cannot see the car or what
it's like.
What's excellent to Joe Blow may be crap to me... and
before I plunk down $16,500 on a car, I will need to
see it for myself...
the best way to sell a delorean is to do what was done
to me... let them test drive it.... when they get
people pulling them over, flagging them down, and
asking to sit in it on your FIRST drive, you can jack
up the price :).
The $9,000 deloreans on Ebay don't run (for the most
part), and are not in very good shape.
I think that DMC houston has a good price, and that's
$30,000 for a refurbished unit. I've never seen one
of their refubished units, but I can only assume it's
in the shape of my car or better, and I wouldn't blink
twice to pay that for mine if the upgrades were done
to it.
My worry is that when I get enough money to buy
another Delorean, there won't be any left.... hell,
I'd like to have 4 of them, just incase..... ugh,
'tis I play the lottery :).
Mike
[very long quote snipped by fanatical moderator]
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:44:19 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: AUTO trans update
Hi List,
I bought a new trans computer but it wont be here for a few days. My car
started to act a little better after I drove it for a little bit. here is
what happens with just a nice easy gradual acelleration. It shifts very
smooth but stays in gear too long. I talked to a car nut today and he said
that since my car is shifting through all 3 gears fine, but just too high
that it is not the computer and some type of adjustment. is this correct?
hes never worked on a DeLorean before. are there any tests I can do before I
put the new computer in? I think I am taking it into a trans shop and having
new fluid(flushed)/filter put in when the GC goes in. is there anything he
should know?
switches to 2nd gear at 35 MPH(manual says it should at 22MPH)
switches to 3rd at 60-65 MPH
downshifts to 2nd at 55MPH
downshifts to 1st at 30MPH
any help would be greatly apreciated.
Thanks
David
6286
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:58:27 -0500
From: "Gus Schlachter" <gus@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: rain leak
I have a leak also; my passenger headliner gets damp when the car is left in
the rain for prolonged periods. In my case, I believe it is the bolts
and/or rivets in the fiberglass on the roof.
There was a service bulliten specifically on leaks:
ftp://dmcnews.com/pub/ST33.pdf
Gus Schlachter
Austin, TX
VIN# 4695
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, June 11, 2001 6:14 PM
> Subject: [DML] rain leak
>
> i've got a leak, but doesn't seem to be the door seals, in fact i
> thought it was the windshield, but it doesnt seem like water could
> get up under the ridge. the leak (as far as i can tell, although
> water does tend to be sneaky) is up at the very front of the car on
> the passenger side about 3 inches in from the edge of the sun visor
> that is closest to the center of the car (puddled on the top of the
> sun visor today).
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2001 03:59:49 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 4th speed fan switch
Things to check for a "missing" 4th speed. A bad fan switch.
A bad 4th speed relay. A problem in the wiring from the thermal trip
to the relay to the fan motor. Since the fan works in 1-2-3 speeds it
rules out a problem in the mode switch and the fan motor. The first
thing to try is switching the 3-speed relay with the 4-speed relay.
Make sure that all of the connecters are in correctly ie: none of them
have backed out of position and then are not making contact with the
relays. Inspect the fan circuit breaker for all of the wires to be
connected in particular there should be 2 brown wires on 1 side of the
breaker (1 brown wire goes to the 3-speed relay and the other brown
wire to the 4-speed relay). The most likely trouble is the relay and
the next most likely is a slipped connecter in the relay block. The
speed switch doesn't fail very often. To rule out a wiring problem you
could pull the 4-speed relay and with a paper clip jump the brown and
pink/black wires to get 4th speed. If the fan then runs check the
black wire for continuity to ground and power at the pink/light green
when you put the sped switch in 4 speed.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Ryan Foster" <westiething@xxxx> wrote:
> I know this might sound silly, but the fourth speed on my fan
doesn't work.
> 1. Could this be a bad switch?
> 2. could this be a bad fan motor?
> 3. any other ideas this could be?
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Ryan- vin.#16301
[moderator snip]
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 21:44:17 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: hyperactive antenna
Gus & Group, I am working on a supplier for the automatic antenna.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:33:15 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: rain leak
Jake,
I've had the problem before-twice as a matter of fact. Both times the
windshield had come unsealed from the windshield frame. I took it to a local
auto glass place and had them completely cut the windshield out and reseal
it. This will probably take care of your problem.
Bill Lane
#3635
jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> well the car was outside today and we had some pretty average rain.
>
> i've got a leak, but doesn't seem to be the door seals, in fact i
> thought it was the windshield,
[moderator snip]
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:43:19 EDT
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: sitting D FOR SALE
Hello,
about a year ago I found a DeLorean about 20 miles from my house. The
owner said he bought it and it ran great until he put fuel injection cleaner
in it. That must have loosend some varnish up and clogged something up. I
took a ride over in my D the other day and saw it was out for sale. It runs
but engine sputters above 4,500 rpms it says. The body is very nice but
louver and fascias are badly faded. It has 14k miles and is a grey interior
5spd. The interior is in decent shape. could use a new dash and binnacle
for sure. the seats are nice but have some wear along with the usual stuff
like weak door struts. he is asking $14,500 but he said it must go soon so
he will take the best offer( he got one for $7k already). you can give him a
call at 616/813-7400. It is located in Cedar Springs Michigan.
I just wanted to let you all know.
David
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 23:43:39 -0700
From: "William F. Lane" <blane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: N. Carolina show (was Tach to Speed chart)
Walt,
There were seven DeLoreans registered but only six showed up. We'll try to
put out some advanced notice for next years British Car Day South.
Bill Lane
#3635
Walter wrote:
> I don't remember seeing anything about this show advertised on the DML.
> Let's have everyone try to mention these shows on the list more in advance
> so that people from farther away can make it.
>
> So how many DeLoreans made it there?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
[additional quote snipped by moderator]
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 22:39:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Grigor Maksudyan <delorean66@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Nationality of DeLorean
I have 2 questions:
1) I know that the DeLorean car was designed by an Italian, suspension was British, and was manufactured in Ireland, etc. In many places, I have seen the DeLorean being classified as an American car, British car, or an Irish car. But what is the true nationality of the car?
2) I know that John Z. DeLorean was born in Detroit, Michigan. But I heard from many people that he is actually French. Is this true?
Thanks
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